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Discussion Starter #1
After a rainy long ride to Amsterdam and back to Ghent...


I noticed the retainer clip on the rear wheel did not hug the nut completely.


It sits snug, but doesnt hug it tightly.


Safety issue?
Thx
 

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There are several holes in the axle, the pin on the clip should go between the castle parts on the rear wheel nut and into one of the holes.

The holes are machined in a way that when you torque the real wheel nut on, one of the holes will line up.
 
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I have a small zip tie in mine, it helps keep the pin that goes into the hole, well deeper in the hole.
 

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These newer clips, that I have on my '15 Multistrada and 1299S don't really lend themselves to the use of a zip tie like this on on old 1098S (below)

 

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Mines like this Chris, the zip tie helps pull the pin deeper into its hole.
 

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Yea the pin is not through one of the locking holes... that's actually the only bit of the whole thing that does anything useful. Look for one of the holes that is inline with a gap in the nut and rotate the clip to line the pin up with that hole... it should pop through.

Before you do that you might want to check torque on the nut... it shouldn't loosen even without the pin (if it was torqued correctly) but without that pin there's nothing preventing it from loosening if the nut was not torqued correctly.
 
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thx all!

but strangely I saw this pic where the pin doesnt sit in the hole at all



but will try it today
It actually IS in a hole in that pic... but it's hard to tell because the pin is almost the same diameter as the pin.
 

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I noticed the retainer clip on the rear wheel did not hug the nut completely.
In this photo, the "pin" portion of the clip is sitting in the hole. It's supposed to be completely through the hole. Then the clip will fit correctly.

You could try tapping the top of the pin portion so it pops through the hole if it's close to being fully aligned with the hole.

BUT Dave K is giving you good advice. If you didn't torque the nut yourself, the fear is that the pin is not completely through the hole because the tech didn't know what he was doing and may not have torqued the nut correctly/enough.

Re-read what Dave K wrote ...

"Yea the pin is not through one of the locking holes... that's actually the only bit of the whole thing that does anything useful. Look for one of the holes that is inline with a gap in the nut and rotate the clip to line the pin up with that hole... it should pop through.

Before you do that you might want to check torque on the nut... it shouldn't loosen even without the pin (if it was torqued correctly) but without that pin there's nothing preventing it from loosening if the nut was not torqued correctly."
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea the pin is not through one of the locking holes... that's actually the only bit of the whole thing that does anything useful. Look for one of the holes that is inline with a gap in the nut and rotate the clip to line the pin up with that hole... it should pop through.

Before you do that you might want to check torque on the nut... it shouldn't loosen even without the pin (if it was torqued correctly) but without that pin there's nothing preventing it from loosening if the nut was not torqued correctly.
you have a 230nm torque wrench to lend? :)

anyway, looks a bit better now


still not 100%, I'd have to bend the clip more so it sits more tightly, but I got no tools in my garage, will ask the dealer to do it when the Desmo service comes...
 

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Yes. And a really big one. Some owners have reported finding that nut only finger tight because the tech got distracted, forgot to torque it, and just put the clip over it. :eek:
Yea a big safety issue. If you don't change your own tires it's worth checking the tech's work if you have a torque wrench... if they don't torque the nut correctly the other bad thing that happens is that the nut backs out and locks the pin in place - then the only way to fix is to get a new retaining clip and cut the old one off so you can fit the socket. Then you have to tighten the nut a bit to free up the last bit of pin.
 

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I've been changing my own tires since 1995, did a set on a 1199 yesterday for a friend. So I've been putting these rear wheel nuts on my own 996, 1098, Multistrada and 1299, plus plenty of Monsters, etc..

I've yet to find one, when torqued to 230Nm, where the holes in the axle did not line up with a slot on the nut needed for the pin.

I would guess your nut is not torqued correctly.

I have one dedicated torque wrench that I use pretty much exclusively for just doing the rear wheel nut on these bikes, the one at the top..

 

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When I bought my (then new) 916, it turned out the dealer hadn't torqued the wheel nut correctly. I rode it for a couple of weeks until I started to notice a 'clunk' on acceleration.

The clip was fitted but I could undo the nut with my fingers. Being loose it had ovalled the locating holes in the wheel and caused the locating pins to oval the holes in the hub and 2 actually fell out!

So it had to have a new hub/axle and wheel, all replaced under warranty but so easily avoidable...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've yet to find one, when torqued to 230Nm, where the holes in the axle did not line up with a slot on the nut needed for the pin.

I would guess your nut is not torqued correctly.
that does not sound logic when I see how many slots there are on the nut itself...

He could have tighten it at 229nm or 231nm.
Those small differences could result in the misalignment of slot-hole.

Nonetheless, that lil sentence made me a lil bit worried.
Now I gotta check if i can losen the nut with my bear hands..
I doubt it, since I've trashed the bike almost everytime I rode it the last 4.500km I rode it in the last 3 months.
Surely I would have died by than? 0:)
 

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I have one dedicated torque wrench that I use pretty much exclusively for just doing the rear wheel nut on these bikes, the one at the top..

I had to go buy it specifically for the job... figured it was worth it since the shops around here rape riders on motorcycle tire changes (one charges $70 off the bike... didn't go there twice).
 

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that does not sound logic when I see how many slots there are on the nut itself...

He could have tighten it at 229nm or 231nm.
Those small differences could result in the misalignment of slot-hole.

Nonetheless, that lil sentence made me a lil bit worried.
Now I gotta check if i can losen the nut with my bear hands..
I doubt it, since I've trashed the bike almost everytime I rode it the last 4.500km I rode it in the last 3 months.
Surely I would have died by than? 0:)
He's right... the holes are offset from each other so when you're at the correct torque one will ALWAYS line up properly with one of the slots (which have a different pitch from the holes). I've had the rear wheel off maybe a dozen times and have never had a problem seating the pin properly.

IMO if you've got a multi you shouldn't have too much heartburn about getting a torque wrench and wheel socket... I bought an inexpensive wrench and steel socket (which works fine), together they cost me less than one tire (<$150 between the two).

A few N-M won't make a difference... it's only a problem if it's substantially low.
 

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Ive probably done around 8 new tyre replacements on the Multi, i have a torque wrench-socket and a cheep impact gun for nut removal. a few times when setting the torque wrench to 230, then going to fit the pin-clip, its been about half a hole out, its a bitch as it takes quite a bit more torque to get another 1mm or so of nut turn. but its doable. its handy for me having the gear, as my 1290 has a single sided swing arm, and a 60mm nut.
 
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