[joepopp]

Just ordered a set of Cycle Cat bars and I am getting ready to change them over. Any oddities I should know about or precautions I should take? Any tricks to removing the triple clamp? It looks like Three bolts allen head bolts.

I think I am going to polish the triple when I have it off...

Thanks!

 

[Muschi]

don't polish the upper tripple, that looks wank.*
getting it back it on is easier if you slightly push the bike with the
front brake pulled, so the stem will move some little bit backwards
in the frame, just a little bit.






*personal opinion from the no-bling crew.

 

[wdietz186]

It will help to have the front wheel off the ground and no weight on the forks. You will need to bang on the upper tree with a rubber hammer to get it free but it isn't a difficult job.

 

[joepopp]

Thanks for the tip Muschi.

Are the factory triples painted or a bead blasted type finish? Somebody painted mine silver and it's all crusty. I need to do something with it! I do have access to a sand/bead blaster. Polishing may be too much bling after seeing some pictures...

 

[VTGPDUC]

Unless they are straightout bars, meaning if they have any rise to them stock or otherwise, you will have to drill and rollpin the risers. Easier to do prior to installation. If you don't they the bars will wiggle and sag when you put a canyon dancer or cycle cinch on them. Also may have to do some grinding to get your master cylinders to clear.

I had both of these issues with my SWATT bars and was told they were the same problems people had with cycle cat bars.
Mark

 

[joepopp]

Mark: any pics of the roll pinning? Thanks.

 

[VTGPDUC]

I can get ya some.

 

[Largerthan9]

don't polish the upper tripple, that looks wank.*
getting it back it on is easier if you slightly push the bike with the
front brake pulled, so the stem will move some little bit backwards
in the frame, just a little bit.






*personal opinion from the no-bling crew.

FWIW

Also there is nothing worse than having a mirror reflecting sunlight up at you from the cockpit when you are riding.... I found that I could not get the clamp back on when the wheel was off the ground when the bike was on the front stand. I use the method the Muschi states as you can wiggle the steerer and tubes around by locking the front brake and rolling the bike back and forth.

</IMG>

 

[VTGPDUC]

Hey Joe!

Which clip ons did you get from Cycle cat?
Also I continue to be amazed at how useful a deadblow hammer is on Ducati's and motorcycles in general.

BTW get the Cap?

 

[Joe-B]

Unless they are straightout bars, meaning if they have any rise to them stock or otherwise, you will have to drill and rollpin the risers. Easier to do prior to installation. If you don't they the bars will wiggle and sag when you put a canyon dancer or cycle cinch on them. Also may have to do some grinding to get your master cylinders to clear.

I had both of these issues with my SWATT bars and was told they were the same problems people had with cycle cat bars.
Mark

I have Cyclecat bars and use a Cycle Cinch in my trailer and the bars do not move. They are bolted to the risers very tightly. No fit problems with the master cylinders. You do have to drill the bars (only part way; I don't think I had to go all the way through) for the locating pins on the switch gear and twist grip housing.
Joe

 

[joepopp]

Hey Joe!

Which clip ons did you get from Cycle cat?
Also I continue to be amazed at how useful a deadblow hammer is on Ducati's and motorcycles in general.

BTW get the Cap?

Mark:
I got the DBR2 Cycle Cats from Oncycles. They had some new old stock so I snagged a set for great price. They still have Titanium and Gold left if you are looking.

The gas cap was sent to my folks place in Florida. It is there, I just have not seen it yet! I move down on September 26th for a whole year (sabbatical from College where I work).

Everybody: Thanks for the info. You guys are always such a big help.

 

[Pipeliner1978]

apehangers