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Replacing 796 brake pads - a few questions

7594 Views 18 Replies 6 Participants Last post by el tardo, Dec 17, 2012

P90Wex

Discussion Starter · Dec 10, 2012

I need new front brake pads for my 2010 Hypermotard 796, but I'm having a hard time finding any information about the installation process (already searched the forums, google, youtube, etc).

Do you have to take the entire caliper off or can you just take the two pins out and slide the new pads in? Any tips would be appreciated! I'm not very mechanically inclined, but from everything I've heard, replacing the pads is extremely simple.

Also - any non-OEM pad recommendations? I thought the stock pads were just fine, but might like to try something new if it's worth it.

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WrathMXer

· #2 · Dec 10, 2012

I remove the wheel to replace mine, but that was on my dirt bikes which were simple. I have yet to play with the rear (or front) on the hyper, but I assume the principle is the same. I would remove either the wheel or caliper to do this job. If you leave the caliper and wheel on it may be harder to depress the piston. Follow youtube videos as the basics should be the same. I'd image you'd do the following:

1) Remove caliper
2) Remove pin/screw holding the pads
3) Remove pads
4/5) Depress piston
4/5) Insert new pads
6) Screw back in the pin/screw to hold in the pads
7) Screw back on your calipers
8) Squeeze brake lever to put pressure back into the system

ALL DONE

I know some people like to scuff up their pads first or clean the rotors or calipers themselves. This is up to you. I usually just use contact/brake cleaner before re-assembling everything.

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WrathMXer

· #4 · Dec 10, 2012

P90Wex said:
Thanks, that's very helpful! One question:

Know if there is a torque spec for this? I wish I had the workshop manual for my bike...

Yes there is a torque spec. You can use the search function to find an electronic manual on one of these threads that would hopefully contain those values. If not here is the first link I clicked on when I searched for you https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l9h68qu8f2c2mw0/oOwAnWatIb

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WrathMXer

· #5 · Dec 10, 2012

Ignore that last link...theres a thread specifically about torque values on hypers http://www.ducati.ms/forums/92-hypermotard/52435-hyper-torque-specs.html

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WrathMXer

· #7 · Dec 10, 2012

Haha...yeah that's why I said ignore that link. I checked through it too and didn't find anything special either. Good luck with the install and let me know what pads you went with and how they feel

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WrathMXer

· #10 · Dec 11, 2012

dbmike said:
The caliper bolts call for 45 NM / 33 lbft and using grease on the threads/bolt surfaces.

The service manual, maybe an online source, suggest pulling the pads prior to removing the caliper due to the tight clearances between disc and rim. More room to maneuver between the disc and rim with the pads removed. I followed this suggestion when replacing the front tire. Still on the original front pads at 17K. What can I say, I am no racer.

Suggest working one side at a time, so you always have a complete assembly to reference. Pull the pads, then pull the caliper. Place the used pads back in the caliper and use a screwdriver or "something" to twist in between the old pads and push the pistons fully back into the caliper. Make room for the new pad material.

Not mechanically inclined? Try just inspecting or pulling the pads first to confirm how soon you need pads. (yesterday, soon, next month etc) . Put that back together and check your confidence.

Be careful with the urge to over tighten everything! Pay close attention when you break the caliper bolts loose.

Good Luck.

Mike

Actually ya! Use this tip. I remember this being difficult my R6. Then again I compressed the piston to get it off, but it was still a tight fit!

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WrathMXer

· #14 · Dec 11, 2012

P90Wex said:
Thanks for the tips! I have the stock OEM pads on there right now, so I'm just using the groove wear indicator to see how low they are.

33-lb/ft seems like too much for the caliper bolts...and some other threads have confirmed this suspicion. Shouldn't it be more like 18-lb/ft to 22-lb/ft?

I know that's what the workshop manual says, but it seems incorrect.

Nice to know. It could be too high? I've snapped engine mounts on my dirtbikes before because the torque specs were too high. It wasn't the bolt being old either because I had bought a new one and the same thing happened. It was a total b**** to get out too!

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