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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need new front brake pads for my 2010 Hypermotard 796, but I'm having a hard time finding any information about the installation process (already searched the forums, google, youtube, etc).

Do you have to take the entire caliper off or can you just take the two pins out and slide the new pads in? Any tips would be appreciated! I'm not very mechanically inclined, but from everything I've heard, replacing the pads is extremely simple.

Also - any non-OEM pad recommendations? I thought the stock pads were just fine, but might like to try something new if it's worth it.
 

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I remove the wheel to replace mine, but that was on my dirt bikes which were simple. I have yet to play with the rear (or front) on the hyper, but I assume the principle is the same. I would remove either the wheel or caliper to do this job. If you leave the caliper and wheel on it may be harder to depress the piston. Follow youtube videos as the basics should be the same. I'd image you'd do the following:

1) Remove caliper
2) Remove pin/screw holding the pads
3) Remove pads
4/5) Depress piston
4/5) Insert new pads
6) Screw back in the pin/screw to hold in the pads
7) Screw back on your calipers
8) Squeeze brake lever to put pressure back into the system

ALL DONE

I know some people like to scuff up their pads first or clean the rotors or calipers themselves. This is up to you. I usually just use contact/brake cleaner before re-assembling everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, that's very helpful! One question:

7) Screw back on your calipers
Know if there is a torque spec for this? I wish I had the workshop manual for my bike...
 

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Thanks, that's very helpful! One question:



Know if there is a torque spec for this? I wish I had the workshop manual for my bike...
Yes there is a torque spec. You can use the search function to find an electronic manual on one of these threads that would hopefully contain those values. If not here is the first link I clicked on when I searched for you https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l9h68qu8f2c2mw0/oOwAnWatIb
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ignore that last link...theres a thread specifically about torque values on hypers http://www.ducati.ms/forums/92-hypermotard/52435-hyper-torque-specs.html
Thanks, that was the one thing I didn't search for - only asked because I thought you might know offhand, but I guess that's a pretty random thing for someone to remember anyway.

Regarding the link you sent - I've actually seen that link before, but it only contains the owners manual (which I already have), not the workshop manual (unless I missed it, but I checked through almost every folder). Anyways, don't need it now really since you sent me the torque specs page.
 

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Haha...yeah that's why I said ignore that link. I checked through it too and didn't find anything special either. Good luck with the install and let me know what pads you went with and how they feel :D
 

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The caliper bolts call for 45 NM / 33 lbft and using grease on the threads/bolt surfaces.

The service manual, maybe an online source, suggest pulling the pads prior to removing the caliper due to the tight clearances between disc and rim. More room to maneuver between the disc and rim with the pads removed. I followed this suggestion when replacing the front tire. Still on the original front pads at 17K. What can I say, I am no racer.

Suggest working one side at a time, so you always have a complete assembly to reference. Pull the pads, then pull the caliper. Place the used pads back in the caliper and use a screwdriver or "something" to twist in between the old pads and push the pistons fully back into the caliper. Make room for the new pad material.

Not mechanically inclined? Try just inspecting or pulling the pads first to confirm how soon you need pads. (yesterday, soon, next month etc) . Put that back together and check your confidence.

Be careful with the urge to over tighten everything! Pay close attention when you break the caliper bolts loose.

Good Luck.

Mike
 

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The caliper bolts call for 45 NM / 33 lbft and using grease on the threads/bolt surfaces.

The service manual, maybe an online source, suggest pulling the pads prior to removing the caliper due to the tight clearances between disc and rim. More room to maneuver between the disc and rim with the pads removed. I followed this suggestion when replacing the front tire. Still on the original front pads at 17K. What can I say, I am no racer.

Suggest working one side at a time, so you always have a complete assembly to reference. Pull the pads, then pull the caliper. Place the used pads back in the caliper and use a screwdriver or "something" to twist in between the old pads and push the pistons fully back into the caliper. Make room for the new pad material.

Not mechanically inclined? Try just inspecting or pulling the pads first to confirm how soon you need pads. (yesterday, soon, next month etc) . Put that back together and check your confidence.

Be careful with the urge to over tighten everything! Pay close attention when you break the caliper bolts loose.

Good Luck.

Mike
Actually ya! Use this tip. I remember this being difficult my R6. Then again I compressed the piston to get it off, but it was still a tight fit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The caliper bolts call for 45 NM / 33 lbft and using grease on the threads/bolt surfaces.

The service manual, maybe an online source, suggest pulling the pads prior to removing the caliper due to the tight clearances between disc and rim. More room to maneuver between the disc and rim with the pads removed. I followed this suggestion when replacing the front tire. Still on the original front pads at 17K. What can I say, I am no racer.

Suggest working one side at a time, so you always have a complete assembly to reference. Pull the pads, then pull the caliper. Place the used pads back in the caliper and use a screwdriver or "something" to twist in between the old pads and push the pistons fully back into the caliper. Make room for the new pad material.

Not mechanically inclined? Try just inspecting or pulling the pads first to confirm how soon you need pads. (yesterday, soon, next month etc) . Put that back together and check your confidence.

Be careful with the urge to over tighten everything! Pay close attention when you break the caliper bolts loose.

Good Luck.

Mike
Thanks for the tips! I have the stock OEM pads on there right now, so I'm just using the groove wear indicator to see how low they are.

33-lb/ft seems like too much for the caliper bolts...and some other threads have confirmed this suspicion. Shouldn't it be more like 18-lb/ft to 22-lb/ft?

I know that's what the workshop manual says, but it seems incorrect.
 

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Appears you're plenty inclined. Sorry for the bother.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Appears you're plenty inclined. Sorry for the bother.

Mike
I'm not questioning your instructions, just questioning the amount of torque the workshop manual calls for on those bolts. My Hypermotard is my only mode of transportion, so I don't want to risk breaking the caliper bolt if the spec is too high.

I appreciate your help either way.
 

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Thanks for the tips! I have the stock OEM pads on there right now, so I'm just using the groove wear indicator to see how low they are.

33-lb/ft seems like too much for the caliper bolts...and some other threads have confirmed this suspicion. Shouldn't it be more like 18-lb/ft to 22-lb/ft?

I know that's what the workshop manual says, but it seems incorrect.
Nice to know. It could be too high? I've snapped engine mounts on my dirtbikes before because the torque specs were too high. It wasn't the bolt being old either because I had bought a new one and the same thing happened. It was a total b**** to get out too!
 

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I replaced both pad sets this fall on my 796 and also flushed the fluid. It was a very easy job. I removed the calipers as that allows you to take a screw driver and twist it to press the caliper pistons back while the old pads are STILL IN PLACE. They do not screw back as someone else stated related to. I did deglaze the rotors with some 80grit wet/dry paper. An easy job.

I went with HH sintered Ferodo FDB2042ST front and FDB2074ST rear from Advanced Auto parts just under $100 shipped for the three sets.

These are the steps from my factory CD... sorry no pics for the numbers

Front
Change the brake pads as follows.
Remove the cotter pin (2) from the pad retaining pins.
Withdraw the pad retaining pins (3) from the outside.
Remove the clip (4) from between the two caliper halves.
Force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Withdraw the used pads (1) from the calipers.
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Refit the pads as follows.
Insert the new pads and clip (4).
Insert the retaining pins (3) from the exterior of the caliper and secure them with the cotter pins (2).

Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads are firmly bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is above the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as follows. Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is level.
Unscrew the bolts (5) and remove the reservoir cover.
Remove the inner membrane from the reservoir.
Top up to the MAX level with the specified brake fluid.
Refit all previously removed components.

Rear
Remove the cotter pin (1) (on the inner side of the caliper) from the pad retaining pin (2). Withdraw the pad retaining pin (2) towards the outside.
Remove the clip (3) from between the two caliper halves.

Force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the brake pads apart. Remove the worn pads.
Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.

Insert the new pads and clip (3). Fit the retaining pin (2) from the outer side and secure it with the cotter pin (1), positioning the lip (A) so that it faces the wheel.

Some torq values in Nm
Front brake
Front brake caliper fastener (rh+lh) M10x1.25 45* GREASE B
Fastener securing front brake master cylinder to handlebar M6x1 10 Sequence 1-2-1
Brake bleed valve M6x1 10
Brake hose connection fitting M10x1 23
Bolt securing brake hose guide to bottom yoke M6x1 TBD
Swingarm
Swingarm pivot shaft fastener M48x1.5 75* GREASE B
Chain tensioner eccentric screw M12x1.25 31* GREASE B Sequence 1‑2‑1
Caliper mounting bracket pin fastener M12x1.25 33* LOCK 5
Chain slider fastener (upper and lower) M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Chain guard fastener (upper and lower) M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Fastener securing heat shield to swingarm M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Rear brake
Brake bleed valve on caliper M6x1 10
Brake hose connection on caliper and master cylinder M10x1 23
Rear brake caliper fastener M8x1.25 25* GREASE B
Rear brake pushrod adjustment M6x1 8
Brake pedal adjuster screw M6x1 2.3
Rear brake pedal light switch fastener M8x1 5
Rear brake master cylinder fastener M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Rear brake fluid reservoir fastener M6x1 2

I do not have a whole lot of miles on them and they look like they are still seating in but I am Very happy with the stopping front and rear. The front is a one finger only. No squeal.

Got a ride in today here in Central lower Mich 59degrees!!! This winter I will put in the Traxxion spring kit I have had since may and just have not taken the time to install

HH
 

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Thanks for the detailed instructions HH. My 796 needs new pads and I will be using your post as a reference this winter.

I have 12,000 miles on my original OEM pads. What kind of milreage are other people getting out of their brake pads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, thanks for taking the time to post those detailed instructions, HH- super helpful.

I ended up ordering the OEM brake pads for $85 from ProItalia - just waiting for them to get here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the detailed instructions HH. My 796 needs new pads and I will be using your post as a reference this winter.

I have 12,000 miles on my original OEM pads. What kind of milreage are other people getting out of their brake pads?
My groove indicator is almost completely gone, and I'm at 8,500 miles or so. I do all city riding during the week though, so I'm sure that accounts for most of the wear and tear.
 

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i have a set of almost brand new stock front brake pads if anybody wants them for cheap.send me a pm
mike
 
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