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Hi sport touring owners. Our bikes, along with several other models, are getting fairly old now; mine is a '98 I bought new in late '97. On a ride not long ago the clutch lever pull began to to get more and more firm and over the space of several turns and four or five pulls became virtually locked up. It had operated normally prior to this (no warning signs). Fifty miles home without a clutch was an adventure (and apologies to all those drivers I pissed off while timing traffic lights along the way...!).
I figured that the problem was fairly simple (and it was) but after rebuilding the m/c it still didn't pump - or moved very slowly. The slave checked ok (and was rebuilt 2 years ago), and under no clutch spring pressure the m/c piston was able to push the slave piston out. The basket and plates, bearing and rod all checked out; no binding, warping, leaking, etc. Searching this and other forums turned up nothing that helped (adjusting the m/c piston travel for example).
I had earlier planned to replace the clutch hose anyway and had already purchased one. It turned out that the original stock hose rubber had disintegrated to the point of large chunks broken off inside the line, blocking the transmission of fluid. There was zero evidence externally that the line was cracked or broken or disintegrating. It was also not evident while bleeding - these were larger pieces that were too small to pass through the banjo hole and reveal a problem earlier during routine maintenance. New hose, another bleed, and perfect clutch operation again.
I haven't seen anything on this before so just wanted to mention my recent experience and recommend proactive hose replacement. Cheap, and easy to do. My brake hoses had long before been changed to steel braided lines, but it is a risk for anyone who still runs stock lines on the brake side too.
 

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Good call, but maybe important to point out this isn't an issue with a majority of the ST series. At some point, maybe in 1998 when Cagiva gave way to TPG, they came equipped with braided steel lines. Those don't tend to suffer the degradation issues rubber lines do, at least not that I've ever seen. You might do well to purchase, even used, the braided steel lines for clutch and brake (if they are also rubber) over OEM rubber.

Now if you're still rocking original fuel lines....
 

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Now if you're still rocking original fuel lines....
Yes :surprise: No ethanol here and they look like new as I have just replaced the filter during routine maintenance.
Fortunately have braided brake and clutch lines so no issue there...
 

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Interesting. Owning such an early example I'd not realized that they switched to braided lines early on (as I soon did on the brake side myself). Not such an issue then.
I replaced tank hoses some time ago as well.......
 

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...I haven't seen anything on this before so just wanted to mention my recent experience and recommend proactive hose replacement. ...
Many years ago, I was buying and running Saab 96 autos as my "salt buggies". I had one front caliper that was overheating. And it was tough to retract the pads, so I changed the caliper from one of my parts cars.

Same f'n problem. Took a bit of troubleshooting (opening the bleeder allowed the pistons the get pushed back), and then I realized that the only thing that I didn't change was the rubber line from the body to the caliper. When I removed the hose, I could not get air to move thru it.
It had swelled internally. It would pass the high-pressure brake fluid, buy it was acting like a check-valve. You could bleed that one side, but it retained residual pressure. Same donor car's line fixed the issue.
 

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You can get used OEM lines on eBay for cheap. I may have set kicking around too, at least the front brake lines. Many aftermarket suppliers, but that can get pricey. Galfer, Spiegler, Goodridge are names that come to mind.
 
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