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thank you so much for posting this info. I recently purchased a 94 900ss/cr and after its second fill-up it started leaking. I just put her all back together again and love the results, thanks again
 

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Im going to add a few posts from my tank-seal blog on another Duke forum as - they are Very Funny!!

"Just wanted to say thanks for putting this thread up. I did my tank at the weekend and all went well. Oddly enough, the tank was actually just about the only bit of the bike that wasn't knackered, and was actually quite free from rust. However, I had already bought the kit so did it any way as preventative maintenance.

The only thing I would add to the list of instructions, is to not bother with latex gloves. You really need marigolds or similar, the longer the sleeve/arm bit the better. Halfway through the final stage my latex gloves gave out and ripped. I had no choice but to soldier on as I had already started. Both hands and wrists are coated in POR15 sealant. Believe me, this stuff just does not come off. I tried brake and clutch cleaner, swarfega, even petrol. Nothing shifts it. I now have silver hands and look like the metal cop out of Terminator 2. When I emailed the manufacturers in the States for advice they told me to just keep applying hand cream to reduce the itching, and it should come off in two to three weeks."

:D
 

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Just wanted to chime in and say that POR-15 worked incredibly well for my tank. This is the worst I've ever seen in my life, I can't believe it worked so well.


Before:





After





Thanks for the detailed write up OP!
 

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Well Guys, I just finally had time to work on the old Duc. Been a bummer not being able to ride all summer. It has not been running good due to ethanol problems with fuel sitting. I just cleaned out the carbs again and I had another fuel delivery problem. I decided to check on the tank and never knew of the rust issue.

Sure enough I have rust in the tank. One vent line had a bunch of rust and was clogged.

I also never changed the fuel filter.

My plans are to POR-15 the inside of the tank and I am looking for suggestions an how you guys capped the big top hole. Also the lower holes.

Once I'm done with POR15 I'm going the bypass the internal fitler and move it external.

I have found the Gates 5/16 fuel line but it is expensive. Any alternatives that will survive, even with fuel with ethanol?

Now for the bypass. I have seen pics.

I'm guessing you replace the Ducati shutoff with a 90 deg fitting.

What filter (external) do you use?

Also what Petcock do you recommend that looks nice and is functional.

I never liked the Duc petcock and though it was stupid you need to lift the tank to get at it.

Guys thanks for your help. Sort of a bummer we need to do this.
 

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Tank Vent Question

Thanks to everyone for the great instructions and pictures. Having read through the whole thread I still have one question that no one seemed to address. On my 1992 750ss, and I believe on all the 1991-98's there is that bulge at the front of the tank with the check valve and vent hose. As I understand that is the primary vent for the tank, letting vapor out and air in as fuel is used.

Did you guys do anything to prevent those vents from getting sealed shut? Mine was crudded shut until I blew it out with low pressure air from a Scuba tank, and now it is fairly open, but I can't see up in there to get a good look. I am guessing all the chemicals will get up into that little air space between the tank top and the bulge, then the sealer will seal it shut. Are people closing that off with duct tape first?
 

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SOME GREAT WORK GOING ON HERE!

Mgkarl, it's been 6 years now since I did my tank, (post no. 2, I believe) and from memory I didn't treat the top inside of the tank where the vent section lives. I must try and take a photo sometime but that means taking whole cap assembly out, which we all know ain't fun.

External filter, I used a Ducati 916 series metal bodied filter as the ports fit the SS fuel lines a treat.
 

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As per my external fuel filter post, I have had the tank repaired.

I "consulted" a welding mate who directed me to a restoration company (they do Rolls Royce renos amongst other fine cars) who have a lot of radiator experience.

We determined the leak was from a cracked spot weld on the hinge to tank union. I meticulously stripped paint around the hinge plate, then blew out all the crap and paint stripper with a steam pressure cleaner.

They then sweated solder all around so that it wicked into all crevices under the offending plate. Another advantage is that solder is lowe temperature than welding and will not buckle the tank nor stuff up the visible paint work.

I showed them the POR-15, which they know of and they advised that this would not be necessary after their fix, so i did not do it

It had a few internal spots of surface rust and they gave me a wet product to spray on to remove the rust with a non metallic kitchen pot scourer - looks like new now.

Cost Australian Dollars 340 - Rolls Royce price? Much cheaper than 3,400 or so for a new tank and it is undoubtably fixed "forever", unlike the original construction!
Looks like this is my issue also, best find a restoration guy in NZ:mad:
 

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Caswell Plating

I just bought an 03 SS that sat for five years and the tank was very rusty. I work at a shop and the way we do it is. Step 1 drain and remove everything from inside the tank. 2 make plugs for the open hole like vent lines, sending units, and such. 3 Fill tank full of Distilled White Vinegar and wait about a week just keep an eye on it once in a while. This will act like a mild acid. 4 Rinse tank with water. After rinse you will need to Prep & Etch the tank. I bought Prep & Etch at Home Depot. Just follow the directions it takes about 30mins. 5 Rinse with water real good then dry I at this point used alittle alcohol to thoroughly get rid of any water. The Prep & Etch keeps the tank from flash rusting. At this point you have 48 hours to coat. 6 Caswell the tank. Just follow the direction in the box.

My tank was really rusty and it came out great. It even filled in some of the thin spots on the bottom of the tank. :D

Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer - Restoration Aids - Caswell Inc
 

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I only want to give thanks to the post.

Some months ago I bought a 2002 900ss Senna. The tank was horrible and I following this post now is better than new.

Here you have the post I did:post

L´s
 

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I became aware of POR 15 many, many years ago when I restored a Triumph TR3 (sportscar). If you don't have larger rust holes, it will easily solve your problem.
 

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Phosphorus acid will do the trick. One liter acid (30% acid, 70% water) and small rocks inside tank. Then just wait and shake once in a while. After a while there is no rust left and the surface is somehow resistant to rust. If you do that trick with citric acid you have to dry it very fast because after that treatment iron is almost immediately in rust. I don't like the idea of cover rotten tank with layer of sealer or plastic kind of stuff when the problem itself is still in there.

Here is a link to my blog where you can see how it works. Text is written in finnish, but there is also pictures of that project. It will remove part of the paint inside tank but after this treatment it is easy to fix.

Tankin putsaus ruosteesta | Mäniksen blogi
 

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Great thread! I did the tank on my '93 900SS this summer after seeing your post. My Guzzi's are next.
 

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My 2006 1000SS suffered from the cracked spot weld. Inside of the tank was rust free so I opted to have the radiator repair shop flood the hinge bracket with solder. Took him a few weeks longer than quoted but he did do a nice job, charged $50, and I luckily have several other bikes to ride.

Been trying to make up for lost time by racking up the fall miles.
 

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i have a small leak on this bike i just got, 1999 750ss. the tank previously was sealed, my leak is at the bottom of the tank where there is a small round fitting/vent with an o ring for a seal. maybe my o ring has dried out? can someone explain what this fitting and o ring are for and a fix? thanks!

 

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i have a small leak on this bike i just got, 1999 750ss. the tank previously was sealed, my leak is at the bottom of the tank where there is a small round fitting/vent with an o ring for a seal. maybe my o ring has dried out? can someone explain what this fitting and o ring are for and a fix? thanks!

HA! I just posted a thread about this. That is the drain plug. I guess it is supposed to be an AL or copper crush washer. So if its rubber, I would replace it.

OH now my problem, any household solutions for dealing with flash rust on the tank?
 

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POR 15 an my 'fear-and-loathing-in-las-vegas-Ducati-gas-tank-overhaul' procedure

Okay, i finally cleared an afternoon, and stated the most dreaded restoration job on my SS: cleaning my tank.
After i read this post, i was sold to the POR 15, orderded it, and i left this job last, just to make sure the tank will not sit empty for a long time.
Mind you, i started a complete overhaul of my 98 SS i.e. 11 months ago, planning a cafe racer conversion.
The tank in question comes from a 96 600SS, left to decay in a barn; the previous owner bought for scrap, but was refused, beacuse of the plastics and mixed aluminium parts, so he sold it. I only bought the bike for the tank, and man, that bike was in a sorry state. but the tank had no leaks, so i went for it. I have to say, the inside had around 3-4 mm of solid rust inside. Solid, evenly distributed rust. It looked like it sat on the bottom of the ocean for a year. No leaks, though. Check out my first image.
6 or 7 months before the POR 15 treatment, the tank was filled to the brim with 100% apple vinegar 6% solution, and left for a3-4 days. My garage still smells like vinegar and rusty nails, even after 6-7 months. It will litterally knock your socks off. After a thorough cleaning, the inside looked clean, all the piping was ok, so i left it on the shelf for a later date.

Now, that day is here. It took me around 9 hours for the complete procedure, i followed it to the letter. Some thoughts on each product from the kit.
The Cleaner was a bit dissappointing, as it seemed weak in force, as i respected the 1:1 dilution. I've had better results with vinegar, honestly. Same goes for the MarineClean. Mine did not create the froth that everyone mentions; i left it in extensively, 30-40 min for each side/panel, and a thorough flush and hot water treatment in between sessions. I was draining the Marine before each flush. The result was satisfactory, although i would have preffered to use a vinegar solution in between sessions, and use the Marine after the vinegar part. Some flash of rust remained, though, but i used very hot water and dried it immediately, using my wife's high performance hairdryer. That sucker has 2200Watts, mind you. I had to use welding gloves in order to hold the tank, it got that hot:)
The liner is another bitch: it took me 20 minutes to crack open the tiny can, and another 10-15 to mix the product.
The whole garage smelled like Marine Clean and liner; it all felt weird and hazy, like a "Fear and Loathing in LV' scene, plus i was using beer as a gap-filler in between sessions.
I did the best i could to evenly cover all the surfaces, making sure there were no bubbles(impossible task), and no puddles( a big no-no).
It was 4 AM, and my head was a haze by the time i drained the remaining liner. I removed all the inside/outside pipe protection, inserting a wood chip in each, to prevent clogging overnight.
The result though, is amazing: it all looks new inside. Now i understand all the hype around the POR15. I hope it will hold, as i have read horror stories, with exfoliation and flaking, but i hope all that was because of the puddles left inside.
I hope this helps in some way.
Here's some pics of various stages of the procedure, as well as a preview of my shed project.

Mihai
 

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Used POR (professionally applied...not by me) and two years later ( I wasn't riding much...probably 3K mi. in two years) it lifted screwing up the tank and filter. Ended up buying another tank.
 

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What does everyone do with the electrical connection that passes through the approx 2in connector on the bottom of the tank? Do you remove the connector and put duct tape over the hole, or leave it in and put the sealer right over it?
 
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