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I am looking at removing the flapper valve and I know with the ECU that comes with the 2-1-2 Termis it will throw an error. So people say you just remove the cables and keep the motor connected, sounds good to me.

Now what I have read on another forum is that if you just leave the motor without the cables it will throw up an error because of over-travel i.e. the cables aren't there anymore so the servo will turn too much. People have even gone as far as fabricating ways of dealing with this so I am starting to think it is a problem.

Just wondering if anyone has got ride of the cables and not had a problem or if you had to come up with a solution to get around it ?

Any help as per usual is much appreciated. :)
 

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You can buy or built a plate like this (on the bike it looks like that) to keep the mechanical resistance the same or you just let overwrite your stock ECU...
 

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You can get Hypertrick to overwrite that part och the ECU if you want.

Check out www.hypertrick.net
He just tuned my SPS and did a great job.

//amullo
 

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You can buy or built a plate like this (on the bike it looks like that) to keep the mechanical resistance the same or you just let overwrite your stock ECU...
Did you make that yourself? I made one for my bike but it's not as nice as that. I'd like to find something just like that.
 

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Did you make that yourself? I made one for my bike but it's not as nice as that. I'd like to find something just like that.
No, I haven't changed the exhaust. I ordered one 2 months ago but Quat-D is slow in production.

You can order the plate in Germany. www.daniele-moto.de about 19 Euros. I think it's not difficult to make such a piece yourself.
 

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I am looking at removing the flapper valve and I know with the ECU that comes with the 2-1-2 Termis it will throw an error

Any help as per usual is much appreciated. :)
You do not have to build anything and you can remove the cables, stepper motor from the loom no problem.

The 2-1-2 ECU has the ability to disable all of this, your local stealership will do it literally in 5 minutes, easy to do while setting the TPS and maybe fueling it up to requirement.
 

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You can buy or built a plate like this (on the bike it looks like that) to keep the mechanical resistance the same or you just let overwrite your stock ECU...
Or, if you don't like doing sheetmetal work, you can remove the black
aluminum servo pulley, and just drill and tap it for two 6mm bolts projecting
out of opposite sides of the pulley for the same result. I used 25 mm long
M6 hardware on mine. Once the cables to the exhaust valve are gone, the
servo pulley comes off with just one nut. Before doing anything, you can
read the initial position of the servo using the hidden service menu, then
return it there after modifying the pulley, but it will search and find the
new limits at power on anyway. Disconnecting the battery usually forces a
"long search" for the travel limits.

When I did my pulley mod, I found it
helpful to know the positions for the starting point, and both end limits
with the exhaust valve still in place and functioning. You can watch the
display on the Hyper while in the service menu and see the servo positions
diplayed (as a voltage) while it moves through the full travel. You can also
set the servo position in that service menu manually using the multi-function
switch on the handlebar. It sounds complicated, but once you've played
around with the EXV service functions, it's pretty straightforward.
 

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OK... this was my solution.
Termi cans, DP race cams (they come with the correct ECU) take all of the butterfly mechanics out... cables, motor, etc. take that piece of pipe to a muffler shop and have them cut the butterlf out and weld the hole shut. then wrap it all in Heat wrap... the ECU for the cams will clear any idiot lights you could get from the butterfly valve motor not registering... the orginal ECU know there is suppose to be a butterfly valve thingy !!!
 

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