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Discussion Starter #1
When I got my termi slip-ons for my Paul Smart my dealer asked if I wanted the baffles removed or not and noted that they must be removed with the slip-ons off because they have to be slide out from the inside. In mid-summer I attempted to remove them myself by pulling the slip-ons off and removing the allen screw that was tack welded on. A steady twist on the allen screw broke the tack weld on the screw but not on the small tube through which the screw ran. To my dismay the baffles did not simply slide out after the screw was removed.

Does that tube need to come out too? If so, how do you break that weld? Anyone got some pointers here?

Also, does the ECU need to be recalibrated after the baffles are removed? I have read here that they might need to be, which means a trip to the dealer anyway.
 

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NJ-DUC said:
When I got my termi slip-ons for my Paul Smart my dealer asked if I wanted the baffles removed or not and noted that they must be removed with the slip-ons off because they have to be slide out from the inside. In mid-summer I attempted to remove them myself by pulling the slip-ons off and removing the allen screw that was tack welded on. A steady twist on the allen screw broke the tack weld on the screw but not on the small tube through which the screw ran. To my dismay the baffles did not simply slide out after the screw was removed.

Does that tube need to come out too? If so, how do you break that weld? Anyone got some pointers here?
The only weld is the tack weld on the screw. Some of the baffles require some extra effort to get them out. I had Termi 2:2s. The baffles were easy to pull out. On the Termi 2:1 the baffle was stubborn and required a lot of effort to remove. Once I got the baffle out I filed the outer edges down a bit and now the baffle is pretty easy to remove and replace.

NJ-DUC said:
Also, does the ECU need to be recalibrated after the baffles are removed? I have read here that they might need to be, which means a trip to the dealer anyway.
You cannot recalibrate the ECU but you can tune the bike to perform better.

I have the Termi 2:1 pipes. The bike runs better with the baffle left in and I'm happy with the sound as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How did you push the baffles out? Dowel and a mallet or by hand?
 

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NJ-DUC said:
How did you push the baffles out? Dowel and a mallet or by hand?
I pulled the baffles out. On the 2:2 there is an inner lip that I grabbed with some vice grips. On the 2:1 there is a small bar that I grabbed. A slide-hammer dent puller - with proper the attachment - a hook for example - would work great.
 

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geospencer said:
A slide-hammer dent puller - with proper the attachment - a hook for example - would work great.
That's what I did. You can get these things from NAPA I think for really cheap. Use the hook....slap slap....out she comes.
 

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On the Termis for the GT there is a vertical pin at the outlet end of the baffles. I just bent a coat hanger and slid it around the pin then tugged on the coat hanger with a pair of pliers and voila.
 

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Is there any way to repair the allen screw hole after your ham fisted dealer half-assedly drills the allen screw out (but leaves part of it in there)?
 

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The only way I could get them out (after the bolt heads threaded - I think they're made of cheese) was to drill out the heads (I did this with the 2 into 2's on the bike). I saw no problems doing this and can put them back in with a self tapper screw. The baffles themselves pulled out with a good pair of pliers.

Geeto67 said:
Is there any way to repair the allen screw hole after your ham fisted dealer half-assedly drills the allen screw out (but leaves part of it in there)?
 

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I heard that drilling a few holes to the internal part of the Termi baffles results in a sound that is louder than stock pipes but not as loud as completely removing the baffles. Has anyone else heard of this?
 

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egrafx2006 said:
I heard that drilling a few holes to the internal part of the Termi baffles results in a sound that is louder than stock pipes but not as loud as completely removing the baffles. Has anyone else heard of this?
My dealer in bangkok said if without baffles was too noisy it was posible to cross drill the baffle tube which would result in a more ''acceptable''volume rather than the whisper quite ''baffle in'' sound.. Lucky for me no baffles dosn't seem to raise any eyebrows here..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So wait a minute here. . . It sounds like you are all telling me that my dealer was out and out wrong on the issue of having to remove the baffles from the inside, which I assumed meant you have to push them down into the muffler and pull them out the bottom. The 2 into 2s for my PS don't have the cross bar so I will take a look again what what needs to be pulled on to remove the baffles. I just don't want to screw something up. I may have to post a pic or something because it looks like just removing the screw is not enough to free up the baffle. Does anyone know of a site that has any pictures on this process?
 

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He was out-and-out wrong if you're talking about my 2-2 GT Termis, but I don't absolutely know that the PS cans are designed the same way.
 

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All the termis are the same for these bikes. Baffles come out the end of the pipe. No need to remove the mufflers. One set screw for each baffle. Once that screw is out, by any means possible (grinding welds, drilling, etc.) you just need to get a good enough grip on the baffles to yank them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Anyone got a pick of the baffles removed from 2 into 2s on their PS or Sport 1000?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So it turns out that there is just a washer under the screw. I had thought that washer was some sort of grommet. I was able to pull one of my baffles before my 9 year old daughter insisted I take her to the driving range to try out her new golf clubs. Hopefully I will complete the job tomorrow on the other slip-on. I can't wait to hear this thing with the baffles out. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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