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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure this will be met with some scepticism but I'm hoping that someone can point me in the direction of a solution. I wish to remove the ignition barrel from my 748 and replace it with a simple switch as its a track bike and I'm not good at keeping keys.
I understand this probably sounds like a stolen bike so i don't expect direct instructions on how to just some idea of where to get help would be great. I have my owners manual and can remove the barrel but am unsure of how hard the installation of a switch would be.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
also can i remove the starter button/ kill with and replace them with switches also.
Cheers.
 

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Replacing the key with a toggle switch rated for direct current is simple.

If you look at the attached diagram that I found on the internet, the only thing you need to do is connect the yellow/black and the white to the toggle switch.
The other wires do not need to be connected as they are for lighting.

Basically the same for the stop switch with a toggle switch.
The start button, assuming you will retain the starter motor needs to be a normally open push button switch.

I see you are in Oz, so head to your local Jaycar. Make sure the switches are rated for DC current.

There is a slim chance Jaycar will have the correct connector so you can plug the toggle switch and wiring into the harness.
 

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Excel Addict
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Yes it is that simple.

In the wiring diagram I attached at the ignition switch the four possible positions of the key switch shows what is connected at each position with the white circles and black bar.

In the off position there are no white circles or bar between white and yellow/black nor yellow and orange.

In the on position there is a black bar indicating a simple connection between white and yellow/black and a completely separate connection between yellow and orange, where the latter as before is lighting.

The same black bar and white circles or lack of applies to the RH handlebar switch as well. Black bar means a connection and no black bar means no connection.

I had a look at the Jaycar web site and they do IP 65 switches, where IP stands for ingress protection. I recall the first number is water and the second dust.
Either way IP65 is pretty much waterproof and who cares about dust on a track bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you sure that i don't need the orange wire as well.
Look like it's required for the tacho, oil preesure amd temp etc.
 

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Those components get powered via the blue wire from the fuse box.
The fuse box is powered via the ignition relay. The ignition relay is energised to closed when the yellow/black and white wires are connected.

In that diagram the blue wire also runs down to the lighting switch which then runs via the orange to the ignition switch which would power components connected to the yellow wire.

Given the age of the bike and Australian design rules back then, there will not be a master on/off lighting switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks a lot for your advice. I'm gonna try this today. Will send some pics after I'm done.
 

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Nothing else needed apart from a switch, a couple of wires to get from the with to the harness connector and somewhere/somehow to mount it.

All you are doing is replicating what the rotation of the key switch does, which is simply connecting the white and yellow/black wires.

The ignition relay coil this powers will only be pulling about 60 mA (0.06 Amps) so the switch can be small.
I just suggest waterproof or somewhere where it will not get wet.

You can test before you buy a switch. Carefully use a piece of wire to connect the yellow/black to the white wires in the connector.

As the white is connected directly to the battery, I would connect this wire firstly to the yellow/black terminal as this is not "live", then connect to the white.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok but can i just get rid of the kill switch all together and just have an on/off switch and start button. Just join the kill switch wires directly.
If i try this will i need to get a relay?
 

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No need for a kill switch if the new "master" switch is within reach.

Just join the two wires for the kill switch together. I can't really tell what colours they are from the shitty jpg.

I would do the master first to make sure you have not cocked up, then when that is confirmed as OK, do the kill switch, then do the push button start wiring.
 

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Do you have a relay fetish? >:)

All you are doing is using new/different switches to do what the stock switches do, which is to close or open an electrical connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ha ha no fetish that i know of. Was just told i would need on by someone else. Thanks for you patience and great advice.
 

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Ha ha no fetish that i know of. Was just told i would need on by someone else. Thanks for you patience and great advice.
He wouldn't happen to be a relay salesman by any chance?

Relays are used to allow low current switches/sensors to switch high currents through relay/solenoid contacts.

A good example is the starter solenoid where the relatively low current through the coil is controlled/powered by the start button and the high cranking current goes through the solenoid contacts direct from battery positive to starter motor positive.
 

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Success?
 
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