[steve1994]

My 1994 ss/sp ducati has been snoozing for 22 years. I have been working on it, repairing one thing after another. Brakes, belts, gas tank, carbs, clutch hose. etc etc.

It is not registered to ride yet, I am waiting to get ride worthy, so I usually sneak a ride around the block for a test. Yesterday I came back and smelled smoke and saw a little smoke coming from the front of the motorcycle. I have read a few posts by others that the electricals up front connected to the regulator are not so good. So I took it apart and checked the wires and regulator with the volt meter on the diode setting. It tested good. I connected the regulator back up and grounded it, and started the motorcycle again. The potting in the back of the regulator was melting. I can assume it is fried, but it still test good. It doesn't Make sense. Any one have more experience and can shed some light.

Thanks

Steve

 

[HiFlite]

Are you sure you did the diode checks correctly? The symptoms and my experience sure point to a shorted diode in the rectifier bridge. Here's a handy guide attached.

 

[belter]

if goo is melting out the back it's rooted.

 

[Rex Coil 7]

Smoking but still operating = it's in it's death throws.

Repair or replace ASAP, and I wouldn't run it anymore until that issue is addressed.

:smile2:

 

[Punch]

if goo is melting out the back it's rooted.

Translating one more time for our non-Australian friends.

Rooted is an Oz equivalent for fucked and some other more polite terms for it is not in all likelihood functional.

 

[bigbadbass2]

Smoking but still operating = it's in it's death throws.

Repair or replace ASAP, and I wouldn't run it anymore until that issue is addressed.

:smile2:

I'd submit this is precisely the scenario that could, in addition, create further damage and take out the stator as well.

OP pull that RR...remove it immediately without hesitation or attempting further onboard diagnostics. You are tempting fate doing so.

 

[StraDuc]

And replace it with a MosFet or a Series R/R not another shunt type. I've seen pix of bikes on fire from a shorted R/R so fix it immediately. No connection but from experience Jack at Roadster is a good guy with a great product.

https://roadstercycle.com/

 

[Rex Coil 7]

And replace it with a MosFet or a Series R/R not another shunt type. I've seen pix of bikes on fire from a shorted R/R so fix it immediately. No connection but from experience Jack at Roadster is a good guy with a great product.

https://roadstercycle.com/

I checked that website .... good stuff Maynard!

I learn at least two new things every day in this forum.

:smile2:

 

[rennsportmotorrad]

Once you let the Italian smoke out you cant get it back in--Stick a fork in it mate it's done --Call Ricks

 

[bigbadbass2]

If so inclined, increase the wire size from the tiny OEM 16 gauge to 12...the whole run from stator to RR.....eliminating any mid connector.

To be clear, the Shindengen RR is not directly "hardwired", it is using weatherproof Furukawa connectors...so it is able to be unplugged for diagnostics or removal.

Long before Roadstercycle became a popular source, I bought a couple of ebay $50 FH010 from salvage ZX10 Kawasaki.....self installed in 2009 on both my 900SS and VFR800.

10 years on, they both remain in service, reliable and cool running to this very day.

If going the salvage "pre-owned', self install route...avoid the Ebay Shindengen far east copies....choose genuine Shindengen Mosfet ONLY.

 

[psyopper]

if goo is melting out the back it's rooted.

Translating one more time for our non-Australian friends.

Rooted is an Oz equivalent for fucked and some other more polite terms for it is not in all likelihood functional.

I put that together through context clues, but it was still worth a chuckle.

 

[EIGHTfortyEIGHT]

Hi Guys,
I made an aluminum machined adapter bracket to take the place of the steel factory bracket. This allows you to bolt the Mofset regulator to the bracket then directly to the stock location on the frame.

I have 3 extra ones I made that are just sitting here. If anyone wants one PM me. Probably just shipping and a couple bucks to drop them off at the post will do it. I have no need for them.

If this helps anyone out then great. If not, then back to the pile they go.

 

[EIGHTfortyEIGHT]

All three adapter plates are gone.

Hope you guys like them and this was better than me tossing them in the bin.

You will have to get some short m6 flat head cap screws to mount it to the bike and some socket head cap screws to mount the regulator to the bracket

 

[Rex Coil 7]

All three adapter plates are gone.

Dang it, I missed out. A day late and a dollar short .... seems to be my montra sometimes. That was (is) some really excellent workmanship, Jedi Master.

:smile2:

 

[StraDuc]

Not to keep boosting Jack at Roadster but he does sell a universal slotted alloy adapter plate that will work if you need one. He will also custom build one to your size requirements.

https://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH020AA mounting bracket.htm

 

[bigbadbass2]

The stock mount plate can easily be mortified...er modified :smile2: to accept the FA series Shindengen Mosfet.

 

[FredSmoot23]

smoking....

I went with the MOSFET from roadster cycle over the winter, upgrading the wiring, added a Shorai battery and a LED readout of battery voltage that I can switch off and on.

In another lifetime, I wired control panels for standby generators as well as doing custom installations of generators into vehicles. Did the LA County's first BATmobile (Breath Alcohol Testing) eons ago, early 1980's. They could park the step van on the side of the road, give you a breath test and have electricity to run the analyzer on the spot. Fun times all around.

Fred

 

[rennsportmotorrad]

My regulator is the original one to my 91 900ss, it works fine but I am thinking of doing this upgrade just because I can & keep the original as an emergency backup

 

[RockAZ]

My regulator is the original one to my 91 900ss, it works fine but I am thinking of doing this upgrade just because I can & keep the original as an emergency backup

The original was Japan made as well, and with all those years the "shellac" or whatever is sealing the inside has broke down. Modern electronics are better too, and with better heat dissipation, as I'm sure you are aware.

My early 91 had an older MotoGuzzi 225-250 watt alternator coil (super narrow and only 32VAC output @6k rpm), I replaced with a rewound one made to fit. Got 300w or so @65VAC now and its fine. Larger cables too up to the regulator helped to allow a Shorai battery to survive. If I had left a normal battery in it, I never would have thought there was a problem as everything looked as new *which it was!

 

[bigbadbass2]

I proactively upgraded to the ZX10 Mosfet in '09, no longer trusting the reliability of the original on my '95 SS... based on age alone. It was still operational, I upgraded regardless and never looked back.

The original still in a box somewhere here, just taking up space.