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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

My 1999 996s Carbon (airbox, fender, hugger, air intake tubes, and radiator guard) has lost its original luster. I took it to a paint shop that roughed it up and hit it with clear. The shine is awesome, but there are hundreds of pinholes in all of the pieces. They are original Ducati Performance and MS production parts.

The shop has tried sanding down the clear and re-spraying with no luck. Any ideas outside of me dropping $1500 on new pieces? The rest of the bike is immaculate with just 7,500 miles.

Thanks!
 

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Happened to me dozens of times, if the body shop knew better they would have fixed them before top coating.
Clean the areas with prep sol or wax and grease remover, mix a bit of clear in a eye cup size container, get a pin hole filling stick or anything the size is a needle and fill the holes with small drops of clear, let it dry overnight, wetsand the whole panel and top coat them again.
Want to do it right? Prep it yourself!
Cheers!
 

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Happened to me dozens of times, if the body shop knew better they would have fixed them before top coating.
Clean the areas with prep sol or wax and grease remover, mix a bit of clear in a eye cup size container, get a pin hole filling stick or anything the size is a needle and fill the holes with small drops of clear, let it dry overnight, wetsand the whole panel and top coat them again.
Want to do it right? Prep it yourself!
Cheers!
Has anyone found blowing it with a heat gun while you are using the pin hole stick works?
 

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Happened to me dozens of times, if the body shop knew better they would have fixed them before top coating.
Clean the areas with prep sol or wax and grease remover, mix a bit of clear in a eye cup size container, get a pin hole filling stick or anything the size is a needle and fill the holes with small drops of clear, let it dry overnight, wetsand the whole panel and top coat them again.
Want to do it right? Prep it yourself!
Cheers!

@LaRossa is right here and the prep is 80% of the time and cost. I deal with this issue all the time on my glassed scale models, although those are a bit easier since I can use an opaque filler. You cannot. There are vastly different types of clear coat available. There is a "touch up" clear by Glasurit that is more viscous (ie, less runny) than others but I forget the number. Repeated spray coats of this stuff, wet sanded with 600 each time using a foam block should solve the problem by filling in the holes. A final sanding of 600 up to 2000 and then buffed should do the trick. You can easily see in this process why this is not done by the factory - wherever these parts were made. It is hugely labor intensive. If you want a perfect part, there's no free lunch and this is the process.
 
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Happened to me dozens of times, if the body shop knew better they would have fixed them before top coating.
Clean the areas with prep sol or wax and grease remover, mix a bit of clear in a eye cup size container, get a pin hole filling stick or anything the size is a needle and fill the holes with small drops of clear, let it dry overnight, wetsand the whole panel and top coat them again.
Want to do it right? Prep it yourself!
Cheers!
@LaRossa is right here and the prep is 80% of the time and cost. I deal with this issue all the time on my glassed scale models, although those are a bit easier since I can use an opaque filler. You cannot. There are vastly different types of clear coat available. There is a "touch up" clear by Glasurit that is more viscous (ie, less runny) than others but I forget the number. Repeated spray coats of this stuff, wet sanded with 600 each time using a foam block should solve the problem by filling in the holes. A final sanding of 600 up to 2000 and then buffed should do the trick. You can easily see in this process why this is not done by the factory - wherever these parts were made. It is hugely labor intensive. If you want a perfect part, there's no free lunch and this is the process.
I found out that if you don't fill the crater before spraying a coat, you'll end up with another coat with the same crater.
You need to fill the pinhole first and make it higher so you can wetsand it flat with the rest then apply a topcoat at which time the holes are no longer visible.
I drop a needle tip of clear on the holes until no lower spot is detectable then block it with a 6-800 wet, then bury it with a wetcoat.
Worked for me so far and I have hand made plenty of parts for my bikes in carbon over the years.
$.02!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks everyone for the replies and help. I’m going to get the parts back and try to sand them down and fill in the holes and repeat. My labor and level of perfection is better than the shop and think with your help I’ll get closer to what I’m after. I have a decent spray setup so should be able to do alright.
 

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LaRossa is right, I've fixed them before doing exactly what he describes, and honestly it isn't hard and it doesn't take that long. just be methodical and persistent. And the reality is you need to coat them first to do it right so you didnt miss anything by starting out with a coat of clear.
 

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Thanks everyone for the replies and help. I’m going to get the parts back and try to sand them down and fill in the holes and repeat. My labor and level of perfection is better than the shop and think with your help I’ll get closer to what I’m after. I have a decent spray setup so should be able to do alright.
And when you sand the freshly filled crevices use a hard block with the wetsand paper, you need to knock the humps down and not the rest, if you use a soft block it takes the contour of the whole surface and won't do what you're after.
Good luck!
 
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wet sand with 500, 1000, 1500, then polish with 2000 then 2500. apply 2 coats of clear. you gotta apply enough clear to smooth out the bubbles.
if they are still a bit present after 2 coats, sand it again with the above process and they *should* go away
 
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