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Discussion Starter #1
What procedure would you use to refinish the ID tag on an SP?
One of the previous owner's keys wore an arc shaped area on the face of the tag. The raised lettering is OK but the gold colored backing doesn't look real great. A nice "patina" is one thing but this is a wear mark/discoloration.
I've been thinking about it but haven't come up with anything that strikes me as THE best way.
Any ideas?
 

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I'm interested to know this, as I will be cleaning up a triple clamp plaque soon too.

I think I read on here somewhere that toothpaste and a nice soft toothbrush brought them up very nicely?? I think I also read somewhere that the plaques are some kind of silver alloy??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sounds like that would brighten one up but my problem is damage from keys on a keychain. i'll have to use a magnifying glass to get a better look at it.
 

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Mine looked like this:



The plate is held in with twist rivets. If you turn the top triple clamp over you can drive them out with a punch:



I blasted it with glass beads and it looked like this:



Using some 1500 grit sandpaper I polished the tops of the letters and number section and painted in the numbers with black paint. I decided to clearcoat the whole thing so it would last a bit longer.

I bead blasted and powdercoated the rivets gold and voila:






I'm not sure what they were coated with (if anything) from the factory, but they would start to tarnish about 6 months after they were made.

I hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wonway, that looks great!
I think I'm going to have to replace mine to make it right. The damage is too deep. An engraving shop may be able to reproduce it.
Thanks for the heads-up on the rivets. I wouldn't have thought to look.
It's going to have to sit on the back burner for a while since I'm saving for FCR carbs and OZ wheels. Might be quite a while! :) ............... :(
 

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Wonway, that looks great!
I think I'm going to have to replace mine to make it right. The damage is too deep. An engraving shop may be able to reproduce it.
Thanks for the heads-up on the rivets. I wouldn't have thought to look.
It's going to have to sit on the back burner for a while since I'm saving for FCR carbs and OZ wheels. Might be quite a while! :) ............... :(
It sucks that your damage was caused by keys. I see people riding all the time with a keychain fit for a janitor on their bikes.

Good luck on reproducing it. That would be a great project that I would like to see. Please let me know if you do it.
 

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I agree that Wonway you have done a superb job there. What did you refinish the triple clamp with? I believe they were originally clear anodised like the swingarm?

I need to do clean up and refinish the triples on both my Ducs soon, and you have given me some very good ideas of how to do it, so thank you very much for posting how you did it, and the lovely pictures.
 

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I agree that Wonway you have done a superb job there. What did you refinish the triple clamp with? I believe they were originally clear anodised like the swingarm?

I need to do clean up and refinish the triples on both my Ducs soon, and you have given me some very good ideas of how to do it, so thank you very much for posting how you did it, and the lovely pictures.
I have been trying to figure out why the top triple of this bike was polished. I bought this bike used and I have never seen one of these polished from the factory on this style of Ducati clamp. The weird thing is that I have a hard time believing that someone went through the trouble of removing the number plate to polish the clamp. The rest of the bike is totally stock.

Anyway, the bottom (untouched factory original) triple was also refinished while I did the top. It had no coating whatsoever on it. I glass bead blasted a section of it and looked at it closely under a magnifying glass. It was just raw aluminum with no coating that I could see. Blasting the top clamp made it match the lower and I am very happy with the results. The finish matches the pictures of a previous bike I bought new.
 

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The triple looks so good now that I have to do something about the fork caps and other hardware. It has some light corrosion that kind of stands out now with the top triple looking so good. Stand by for the next update ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
finally found something that worked!

Believe it or not, a pencil eraser did the trick. (I don't have a clue how I dicovered this!)
I used one of those big pink erasers that are 1" x 3" with the slash-cut ends.
I don't know if I rubbed off a coating or just 17 years worth of "patina" but it sure looks great now. :D
I did it on the bike without bothering the finish on the top tree.
 

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Believe it or not, a pencil eraser did the trick. (I don't have a clue how I dicovered this!)
I used one of those big pink erasers that are 1" x 3" with the slash-cut ends.
I don't know if I rubbed off a coating or just 17 years worth of "patina" but it sure looks great now. :D
I did it on the bike without bothering the finish on the top tree.
That's great news. My top triple needed some love so I wanted to do them both.

Do you have a picture?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
sorry
my camera can't get a good pic
it's too bright and shiney!
:D
 

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I refinished mine with a toothbrush and some Bartenders Friend cleaner. I thought the top triple would look good the same color I refinished the lower fork legs that I repainted
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I believe they were originally clear anodised like the swingarm?
Not so. For either the triple not the swing arm. The swingarm is painted silver, probably with a brush to mimic the finish of brushed aluminum it is not clear anodized. The top triple is painted also. It’s a matte silver finish that mimics bead blasted aluminum with slight tarnish.

When I Found the cracks in my swing arm, I found it was paint rather than anodizing. IIRC, there was primer under it too. I had the whole thing bead blasted and welded. The visible difference in the finish after the bead blast was a distinct lack of striating that mimicked a clear anodizing of raw aluminum.

I ended up polishing the swing arm which now that it’s done.....I don’t quite like as much as I thought I would....sean
 

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Eastwood Company sells a paint called Alumablast, clean the part and paint with a few light coats of this and the part looks freshly bead blasted, I use it on parts that have been bead blasted to keep the look and seal the part to stop oxidation
 
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