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Refilling coolant system

15308 Views 14 Replies 12 Participants Last post by ducat, Mar 31, 2010

stryder

Discussion Starter · Mar 27, 2006

I drained the "storage" coolant I had installed last fall as a precaution against extreme low temps, and tried the Ducati SM approach when refilling with "riding" coolant, ie refill the rad through the return/reservoir bottle, and the coolant did not flow into the rad, it just sat there. After waiting a few minutes, I drained the bottle and just topped up the rad, then the bottle like I did last year. What gives? Why didn't the coolant flow from the bottle into the rad/system?

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

Fariborz

· #2 · Mar 27, 2006

There is a thermostat inside one of the tubes. That will not open up until you reach a certain temperature. Start up your bike and let it warm up. You also need to burp the tubes between the engine and the radiator by squeezing them while the engine is running to get all the air out of cooling system.

When the engine gets hot, do not open up the radiator cap. The pressure inside will force the hot fluid to burst out. Only add fluid to the reservoir.

-Fariborz

stryder

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 28, 2006

I was referring to was the instructions in the service manual for refilling the rad. They don't seem to work. The SM states to refill the rad/cooling system via the return bottle, and in my case, it didn't work, the coolant just sat there, and didn't flow into the rad, so I just poured the coolant in the rad until full, put the cap back on, and topped-up the return bottle, then ran it till the fan came on to "burp" the air as per instructions. I'm was wondering if I misread the instructions or if they just plain won't/can't work as written. No biggie, but it doesn't give one cause to trust explicitly the SM if instructions for such a minor task don't work.

Stick

· #4 · Apr 1, 2006

You did it correctly thru the radiator cap. On the side stand is best, also--this keeps the cap at the highest fill point. I found sone interesting mini-ports on my ST2 that came in handy for getting rid of the air pockets while filling. They are small screws w/ copper crush washers on the cast elbow fittings that bolt to each head or jug. I simply loosened or removed these as needed until coolant came out, and then tightened them back up.

Filling thru the overflow bottle won't work because these work as they do on a newer auto. they only work as the collant system is being pressurized (burping air up thru reservoir), and feed liquid back as the system depressurizes.

Not sure why the instructions are hosed...pun intended!

rapter

· #5 · Apr 22, 2007

I have been doing much of the same thing. I filled the resivoir bottle on my bike, and non of the collant went to the radiator, it just sat in the resivoir.

Filling up the radiator itself was a much better approach, and anyways on my 749 there is a HUGE lable that indicates 2.97L of fluid goes into my rad.

I too used the SM (Service manual) and even if their "fill-the-resivior" method works you would have to heat the bike, then the little fluid would flow in, then let it cool, heat the bike again, etc. etc. I think that filling the rad is the way to go.

If someone knows somehting else, please post it!

mdksmk

· #6 · Apr 25, 2007

I did a coolant flush and fill recently. The key to draining and filling is to take the rad cap off. Otherwise the valve between the rad and resevoir might not open which impedes the complete draining and filling of the cooling system. I tried getting the bike up to temp to open the valve but it did not help in draining the bottle. Maybe there was an air pocket.

I struggled with the filling process as the bottle would not go down. Till I opened the rad cap and filled the radiator slowly via the rad cap. Then tighten the cap and filled the bottle. Ran the bike and burped the hoses to remove any air. While running, the level in the bottle did go down as coolant was distributed - so you you need to add to keep the level between the hi and low marks.

Neither the Ducati SM or Synder's manual states removing the the rad cap as an aid - but for me it was the only way I could completely drain and fill the coolant

Hope that helps.
MK

cycledood

· #7 · Apr 26, 2007

Radiator coolant procedures:

Gents,

The filler plastic bottle for cars or motorcyles are to maintain coolant level only.

When the engine is Hot; level should be at the upper level line. When the engine is cold; level should be mid point between full level line and low level line. If it's below low level add coolant through the filler bottle only!

CAUTION: never add coolant to the radiator directly when the engine is hot!Pressurized coolant will spray out on you. 3rd degree burns possible! Be safe, always allow your engine to cool at least 2 hours before opening your radiator cap.

Draining or flushing your radiator requires you to open the radiator cap!
Follow the caution statement above first prior to start of work activity:
1) remove side panels to access radiator cap.
2) have a dry rag handy to keep your work area clean and dry.
3) put your bike on it's center stand and place a drain pan under where you drain your coolant. Your bike may or may not have a drain plug to drain the coolant. Decide which method you will use; removing the bottom radiator hose or you have found a drain plug low enough to do the same draining job.
4) remove your radiator cap, this allows the coolant to drain easy, by giving it a good (vent)capability.
5) remove the bottom radiator hose or a drain plug that is lower then the radiator hose level.
6) when all coolant has drained to your likeing. Put your bottom radiator hose back on or the drain plug in. In otherwards, reverse your actions you have made.

Filling the radiator with 50/50 premixed coolant:
(Some of us make our own 50/50 mix. It's cheaper then the shop premixed)
1) If you make your own: 50% prestone/50% DI water, not for you track guys. Make sure you shake well before adding to your radiator.
2) Keep a dry rage handy, use a funnel too.
3) Top off your radiator through the radiator cap till it's almost full.
4) put the radiator cap back on.
5) start your engine and let it warm up for 5-10 minutes. example (160F)
6) turn your engine off and check to see if the bike has a bleeder to bleed out the trapped air.
Caution: HOT! Another method, sqeeze the dradiator hose using thick work gloves. This too will asset removal of trapped air. If you have the extra time wait 2 hours to open the readiator cap. Go ahead and top off the radiator and place the radiator cap back on.
7) Fill the plastic filler bottle to it's mid level and place the cap back on.
8) Start the engine again and bring it up to operating temp of normal (160-180F).

At this point all air should be gone and you should only need to top off the plastic filler bottle to maintain level. At this time you should check all hose clamp etc. for tightness. Your done! Great Job!

See less See more

Mike

· #8 · Apr 26, 2007

cycledood said:
Filling the radiator with 50/50 premixed coolant:
(Some of us make our own 50/50 mix. It's cheaper then the shop premixed)
1) If you make your own: 50% prestone/50% DI water, not for you track guys.

I follow the 35%-40% mix recommended by Ducati. It runs cooler during hot weather. I like the blue stuff for aluminum blocks from the VW dealer because I like the color and I trust it does a good job protecting from corrosion at the recommended mixture.

nobowl

· #9 · May 5, 2007

Mike said:
I follow the 35%-40% mix recommended by Ducati. It runs cooler during hot weather.

Is that 40% prestone, or 40% distilled water?

Thanks!

Mike

· #10 · May 5, 2007

nobowl said:
Is that 40% prestone, or 40% distilled water?

Thanks!

More water, less coolant.

M1Tanker

· #11 · Apr 3, 2008

cycledood said:
Gents,

The filler plastic bottle for cars or motorcyles are to maintain coolant level only.

When the engine is Hot; level should be at the upper level line. When the engine is cold; level should be mid point between full level line and low level line. If it's below low level add coolant through the filler bottle only!

CAUTION: never add coolant to the radiator directly when the engine is hot!Pressurized coolant will spray out on you. 3rd degree burns possible! Be safe, always allow your engine to cool at least 2 hours before opening your radiator cap.

Draining or flushing your radiator requires you to open the radiator cap!
Follow the caution statement above first prior to start of work activity:
1) remove side panels to access radiator cap.
2) have a dry rag handy to keep your work area clean and dry.
3) put your bike on it's center stand and place a drain pan under where you drain your coolant. Your bike may or may not have a drain plug to drain the coolant. Decide which method you will use; removing the bottom radiator hose or you have found a drain plug low enough to do the same draining job.
4) remove your radiator cap, this allows the coolant to drain easy, by giving it a good (vent)capability.
5) remove the bottom radiator hose or a drain plug that is lower then the radiator hose level.
6) when all coolant has drained to your likeing. Put your bottom radiator hose back on or the drain plug in. In otherwards, reverse your actions you have made.

Filling the radiator with 50/50 premixed coolant:
(Some of us make our own 50/50 mix. It's cheaper then the shop premixed)
1) If you make your own: 50% prestone/50% DI water, not for you track guys. Make sure you shake well before adding to your radiator.
2) Keep a dry rage handy, use a funnel too.
3) Top off your radiator through the radiator cap till it's almost full.
4) put the radiator cap back on.
5) start your engine and let it warm up for 5-10 minutes. example (160F)
6) turn your engine off and check to see if the bike has a bleeder to bleed out the trapped air.
Caution: HOT! Another method, sqeeze the dradiator hose using thick work gloves. This too will asset removal of trapped air. If you have the extra time wait 2 hours to open the readiator cap. Go ahead and top off the radiator and place the radiator cap back on.
7) Fill the plastic filler bottle to it's mid level and place the cap back on.
8) Start the engine again and bring it up to operating temp of normal (160-180F).

At this point all air should be gone and you should only need to top off the plastic filler bottle to maintain level. At this time you should check all hose clamp etc. for tightness. Your done! Great Job!

Thanks for the instructions! Yes, I know this thread is a year old. But it doesn't matter, as I'm gonna take my ST3 to a track this Saturday, and I'm puttin' in Engine Ice. Since that stuff is expensive, I didn't want to screw up the procedure of draining the current coolant and putting in the Engine Ice.

FFWD

· #12 · Jul 10, 2008 (Edited)

A little confused

Oops. Never mind.

FFWD

· #13 · Jul 10, 2008 (Edited)

Sorry, wrong forum.

MAZDuc

· #14 · Mar 31, 2010

Mike said:
I follow the 35%-40% mix recommended by Ducati. It runs cooler during hot weather. I like the blue stuff for aluminum blocks from the VW dealer because I like the color and I trust it does a good job protecting from corrosion at the recommended mixture.

Is the coolant you get from the VW dealer a pre mix? What about Water Wetter & distilled water?

ducat

· #15 · Mar 31, 2010

MAZDuc said:
Is the coolant you get from the VW dealer a pre mix? What about Water Wetter & distilled water?

De-ionized water. The ions are what hold a charge. Thats where bi-metalic corrosion starts.

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