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Discussion Starter #1
I keep getting the above error code (P0351) on my 2006 S2R 1000 (19K miles): Ignition Coil Circuit Malfunction, for both Coils 1 and 2. I've been checking the codes either with TuneECU or ScanM5X.

I clear the error, but it comes back. Though the bike needs tuning for sure (TB sync, etc.), it runs fairly well (after a lot of troubleshooting and basic servicing).

I've been told by a Ducati mechanic this might be happening because I've been doing a fair bit of work on the bike, taking out the battery at various points, and so on.

Does that seem right? I haven't really seen a direct correlation between taking the battery out and getting the error code.

I thought there was something off about the coils when I tested them with a multimeter.

On testing the primary, low voltage coils, I got 1.6 Ohm.

But I could not check the secondary, high voltage circuit. I could not get a reading with the coil cables connected, which is how I gather the test is normally done. On standard-type testing of secondary coils I get nothing, zero. In other words, I could not get any Ohm reading between the input (the smaller pins, or "pigtails") and the output (the large round plugs that connect to the cables that, in turn, go to the spark plugs). Nor of course could I get a reading from the input (small) pins to the end of the cables when the cables were attached to the coils.

I looked up the ignition coil test procedure, for which there are a bunch of youtube videos, and from what I gather, I should be able to get an Ohm reading from the smaller "input" pins (the ECU end, I guess you could call it) to the end of the coil cables (the spark plug end) ... but I don't get anything there.

On the other hand, when I check the cables alone while they are disconnected/detached from the coils, I get 4500 Ohms, i.e., JUST on the coil wires/cables alone that go to the spark plugs.

I don't know what's going on there, is this normal? Again, I couldn't reproduce what I take to be the standard coil test procedure, except for the primary coil test, and then I got a low (1.6) Ohm value - I don't know if that's what it is supposed to be. There are no tech specs anywhere I could find that say what the readings should be for the S2R1K coils - I even wrote to Beru but no response yet.

For greater clarity: for example, if you look at this video, I could reproduce the primary coil test (discussed at the 1:00 minute mark), and I get 1.6Ohms ... but I could NOT reproduce the test described at the 2:00 minute mark. I could only test the coil wires while they're detached, not while attached to the coils. And even then, I get 4500 Ohms, which seems low. SEE VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3cOR

Or take this other video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVH83g9DUK8 ... again, I could only reproduce the first part of the test, with the lower Ohm values for the "primary" or "low voltage" coil; I could not reproduce the second part of the test, for the "secondary" or "high voltage" coil.

Any thoughts? Are the Beru coils different, or am I using the wrong test procedure?

Much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
For more clarity (not sure I explained myself well enough above), please see the attached photo.

Testing with a multimeter, I can do the test on point "A" and I get a reading of 1.6 Ohm when taking a reading between the two pins.

However, I am unable to get a reading of any kind when I place the leads on points "A" and "B" respectively, no matter how I combine the leads and/or pins. I get zero.

This of course means I also don't get any readings between points "A" and "C", where C = the tips of the coil cables (i.e., the tips that plug onto the spark plugs), when attached to the large round plugs on the coil. Again, I get zero.

Based on the coil testing procedures I've looked up, I should be able to get SOME reading between A and B, and between A and C.

BUT, if I test just "C" alone, just the coil cable when detached, I get 4500 Ohms.

I hope this clarifies.

Many thanks!
 

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My ST4s shows P0351/P0352 whenever the battery gets too low. I can charge the battery and reset the DTC's from the laptop, all is good again....except how do I trust this as a sport touring bike? I was getting this routinely with the Shorai battery, which never seemed to properly charge when riding (voltage seems to be too low for Lithium). I changed to a new Yuasa, and all seemed ok until I left the Garmin on overnight- the engine cranks a bit slow, pops twice and nothing. Charge battery, reset DTC's, runs fine.
Does anyone have a trick for roadside reset- disconnect the battery? I have replace the ECU, mag pickup, coils.

thanks, EricM
 

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Most of my experience with coil failure has been with cars but when they fail its usually the primary side shorting out. Often this only happens after 15-20 minutes when the coil heats up.
1.6 ohms sounds a bit low, would mean about 7.5 amps but of course this is pulsed not constant. Have you tried comparing both coils?
Also try heating coils with hair dryer or heat gun and see if resistance changes, don't go over 100 deg Celcius though.
Btw 4500 ohms is about right for the high tension leads.
 

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as i understand it, both e mondale and the original poster have coil faults logged without any issues as such, apart from the coil faults. certainly that's how it seemed with the first guy, and no amount of telling him to just ignore it and move on to other more likely issues would get him to do so - he sent me a lot of emails and i think stopped when i wouldn't agree with him, no matter how many different ways he asked the same question.

if there is no running issue, ignore the coil faults. if there is a running issue, it's really not very likely to be a coil fault, anything is possible, but it's very unlikely. there's other more likely causes.
 
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