Ducati designs their bikes with spring rates to accomodate riders having your exact weight so no changes needed there.
You need to be honest in assessing your riding skills. As they improve over time so will your suspension needs change to match your riding technique. Your particular riding technique will play a big part in refining your suspension settings. If you are an average rider, sticking with the factory recommended settings will probably be best.
But feel free to experiment. One change at a time. First reset everything back to the stock settings stock, and try a different single setting until you develop a feel for the differences resulting from each change and the sensitivity of the bike to each click on the adjuster. Always use the same road to evaluate your changes. This seat-of-the-pants testing is highly subjective so don't be surprised if your feelings about the changes are different the next time you ride. Even without any interim changes, there are days that you know that you're riding well and the suspension is just right, and days that you're not in the groove. Given that you're not an experienced test rider, you'll find that YOU are the biggest variable.
Consequently, you should probably avoid using suspension settings developed by other riders for themselves, specifically motorcycle magazine test riders who commonly tweak each new bike's suspension settings in an attempt to improve on factory settings, and then publish the results. These settings may actually be an improvement for one particular rider on one particular track but the factory settings are still the best overall comfort-performance trade-off for the average rider on an average road.
For example, a review of a dozen magazine tests of Ducati superbike compression and rebound damper settings showed that even though there is a wide variation between riders, their settings average out to the factory recommended settings.
So it looks like Ducati knows its business.
Here's how Kevin Cameron puts it ...
"The motorcyclist wants to do the right thing, but simple tables often push aside common sense. Too often, magazine reviews say things like: 'When we got to Donington, we cranked up the damping at both ends to full-rigid with max spring preload, and got down to some serious lap times.' This implies it's always best to run the hardest possible settings.
Reverse logic also implies that if you run hard settings, you must be a good rider. Like it or not, we're all a bit status conscious, so this kind of things sucks us in. Believing harder is better, all these riders are jolting around the highways with suspension set on magazine-max, when in fact they would benefit from considering the word compromise. You need traction to go fast, and on any but the smoothest surfaces, that means the suspension has to move.
A crew chief of a recent MotoGP team, once said that the rider really needs four different bikes.
1. During braking, he needs a machine with its full weight to the rear, to allow the full grip of the front tire to be used without lifting the back wheel, with firm enough front suspension to keep it from bottoming.
2. During turn-in, he needs a machine with a very short chassis for quick steering, with no suspension at all to delay the action.
3. In the turn, he needs a balanced weight distribution that doesn't overload either tyre prematurely. He needs ground clearance, but with suspension soft enough to maintain grip.
4. When acceleration begins, he needs a chassis with its weight forward, to keep that front tire loaded enough to steer without pushing.
There is no way to combine all these separate and conflicting requirements in the bike as it now exists. There is no rule that reveals the best compromise, which is why assertions like 'harder is better' are nonsense. The more you work with suspension, and the more combinations you try, the more you learn about how to achieve a suitable compromise."
Reference: Cameron, Kevin, How Suspension Works
