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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I am attempting to remove my rear sets from a new to me 2007 1098. I don't think they have ever been off.

I have tried PB (soaked overnight), Heat (torch) and an 18V Impact driver. I am using a new full size 6mm allen wench with enough force that I am concerned any more might create issues that would make me weep with despair (visions of broken bolt heads or worse, broken tabs).

Any thoughts?

TIA for comments/help.
 

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The trick with heat is to chill it suddenly after heating, then try to undo. Heat till glowing, chill with water, then remove.
 

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last resort/

a carbide or cobalt drill bit starting 1/16" & work your way larger,keeping the bit as close to center as possible.
 

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There's a product over here called freeze and release, basically liquid nitrogen mixed with penetrating oil in a spray can. It's supposed to be very good.
 

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The bolts for my rearsets were red LockTite'd in place (or some equivalent thread locker). I was able to get mine to release without extreme measures. Others have had to use heat to melt the thread locker. If it's loctite...550 degrees F is the melting point.
 

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Ah been through this many times! If its high strength loctite, heat is your best option to break things free. Hopefully no paint damage will come of it.

If its just stuck from too much torque (no loctite) , drilling the heads off of the bolts will allow the threads to relax, and they can be un-done with ease. thats a last resort

Before now i have tig welded a section of hex bar into the cap screw. The heat from welding softened the loctite and the length of hex bar was enough for a 6 sided socket to get onto. . again a last resort as this was an absolutely totaled Kickstand Cap screw

Someone step in if i am wrong here, But i never use Loctite on anything. . unless i really really dont want it moving ever again. Properly torqued rearset bolts shouldn't need it.
 

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Someone step in if i am wrong here, But i never use Loctite on anything. . unless i really really dont want it moving ever again. Properly torqued rearset bolts shouldn't need it.
I use anti-seize or lock-tite on just about every fastener. Too many lost or seized fasteners in my past. I find loc-tite does a nice job preventing corrosion seizures.

t_bare
 

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Yep , nothing wrong with using Loctite just need to use the right grade. I used to use it for everything on my 2-strokes otherwise they would vibrate to pieces. The blue stuff is good for small bolts/ screws and red stuff for bigger bolts. Never use the green bearing retainer on a bolt though or it'll never come undone.
 

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Yep , nothing wrong with using Loctite just need to use the right grade. I used to use it for everything on my 2-strokes otherwise they would vibrate to pieces. The blue stuff is good for small bolts/ screws and red stuff for bigger bolts. Never use the green bearing retainer on a bolt though or it'll never come undone.
Well said, dont use green. Sounds like these are held in with red, possibly overkill for the m8
 

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The pre-treated bolts from Ducati use a type of red colored locker that holds on until it breaks loose like glass with an audible "Ping". That is very unnerving. The blue Loctite is more like dried buggers gumming up the threads :)

t_bare
 
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Discussion Starter #11
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Thanks all for the comments!

Several heat cycles with the torch and an un-nerving amount of force 'cracked' them loose. It does appear to be some sort of red thread locker gummed up in there.

As a side bar, PB soaked paper towel ignites very easiliy when exposed to a torch... Duh.
 

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fire means a job well done. what is the condition of the cap screw heads? if they are mangled at all you may want to get some new ones, just so you dont find yourself with stripped heads the next time they for some reason need to come out. The general consensus of this discussion is that people are using loctite, so if you plan on it, dont use too much, just a smidge. if you really dont want them to come out and also dont want to put a flame near your bike again, lock wire them
 
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