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Discussion Starter #1
The bike is a 2009 Hyper 1100S. I did the 22K service this winter (aside from a few small things) so I am fairly handy. I know about the special menu to change the settings.


Where I was: Cheapo "Integrated tail light. Run/brake worked. Fast front flash rate...indicators on dash worked. The fronts are Oberon performance signals that are visible from the front and rear. Rear unit up and quit working. Had same item a few years ago and everything worked with no equalizers. It up and dies and new item is as described above. I didn't care so just unhooked the flashers in the back as they didn't work. Fast forward to below.


Where I'm at: To start with...I care a little more now LOL. I have a generic (similar or same as above) integrated rear turn signal/brake combo. I am running Oberon Performance bar end signals still. The brake/run light works fine. When I hit the signal I have a normal flash rate in the front. The corresponding side of the taillight lights amber but does not flash.

What I have done: Everything....or almost. I have run load equalizers of multiple resistance levels and have got nowhere. 1 Sylvania 6 ohm resistor per side. 2 per side. A signal dynamics "back off" equalizer. The equalizers that came with the brake light. The Back off with a Sylvania per side. Every flash pattern and rate you can imagine has happened. Dash showing and not showing. Left front with right rear light(but not flashing). Total amber in rear with one flashing red. More combos of crazy flashing that I cant remember. Laughable as I am mostly guessing. I've wired up LEDs to my Harley and it was a piece of cake.

Trial and error has failed miserably. Changing from LED to lamp in the special menu only changes it to a different type of chaos. I am (somewhat) content to run a normal rate in the front and have no flash in the back. The side lights up properly but doesn't flash. Riding season is here and I have other scoots to work on. At least that is an improvement over the last few years.

If anyone can point me to a thread or offer advice I would appreciate it. I have searched and followed some of the advice therein so don't flame me. I'm old and tired AF and can't type for shit so it took me a while to type this all out LOL. Yes I could have bought a more expensive taillight or had a pro do it...I like to work on them even when they make me cuss.

If you suggest I spend more money on high end lighting I will give you a detailed list of all the bike related crap I blow loot on, I'm surprised I can afford gas and food.

If your still with me ask any questions and I will try and answer them. Thanks in advance

Ciao
 

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Your best bet is to use a pair of 4-pin relays (one per side), if you connect the input side of the relay across the original turn signals (the illustration should show a green and white wire for the original turn signal wires, essentially just put the relay where the bulb would originally be) and then connect the integrated turn signal wire to the battery via the switching side of the relay (I had to connect it to the positive terminal of the battery iirc on my 796 but I think the non-Evo 1100's might be different). Here's a dodgy illustration of the setup for one side:


The 796/1100 Evo uses a different wiring pinout for the main rear light connector (due to the updated dash which houses the relays etc) so mine was even more fucked up and I had to swich around the 3 main wires too but your brake light/running light is already working so you won't need to worry about that. I actually managed to get a 50% refund on the tail light as I complained that it wasn't working correctly, here was the video showing my issues that I submitted back then:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Neeps. What is weird is that after I decided to just go with it I buttoned it all up and used some waterproof connectors. Now I have a fast rate with an indicator on the dash and the correct side of the taillight illuminated but not flashing.

I may try your 4 pin relay set up. I don't think there is a resistor that will work for me.
 

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Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Whats worse is, I work for Sylvania and have access to every load resistor we sell. Series, Parallel, tried them all. Brought home a programmable resistance box, so I can literally make any resistance load equalizer and I still can't make them work. I did think about putting two led flasher modules under the seat and drive them like that or bury a couple of bulbs under the seat as ballasts because that seems to work also... thought I would give up on engineering the project and see what everyone else was doing with these. There is a possibility that the ground is being switched instead of the positive and this unit only has one wire for the signal and shares the ground with the brakes... I'll go out and check what's going on with a power probe. May have to run a relay to make this work...

Update:
So I went out to the garage... the + and - signals from the ECU both switch. I am going to have to rig up a relay to switch the signal lamp. The version I have only has 1 wire per side so it shares the ground with the tail light, which isn't pulsing...

I'll update when I get something wired up.

Blair
 

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Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same problem. Whats worse is, I work for Sylvania and have access to every load resistor we sell. Series, Parallel, tried them all. Brought home a programmable resistance box, so I can literally make any resistance load equalizer and I still can't make them work. I did think about putting two led flasher modules under the seat and drive them like that or bury a couple of bulbs under the seat as ballasts because that seems to work also... thought I would give up on engineering the project and see what everyone else was doing with these. There is a possibility that the ground is being switched instead of the positive and this unit only has one wire for the signal and shares the ground with the brakes... I'll go out and check what's going on with a power probe. May have to run a relay to make this work...

Update:
So I went out to the garage... the + and - signals from the ECU both switch. I am going to have to rig up a relay to switch the signal lamp. The version I have only has 1 wire per side so it shares the ground with the tail light, which isn't pulsing...

I'll update when I get something wired up.

Blair

I don't know if this helps, but I thought it was weird when it happened to me so I thought I would share.

When I hooked up my integrated taillight, the amber turning LEDs wouldn't flash. They stayed on constant. Then, while I was sitting there with it all plugged in, trying to figure it out, it started blinking. It was weird, it took a couple of minutes, but I wonder if the module just had to sense the load. The front was blinking from the get-go but the rear took a few minutes.

I hope this helps,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update:
So I went out to the garage... the + and - signals from the ECU both switch. I am going to have to rig up a relay to switch the signal lamp. The version I have only has 1 wire per side so it shares the ground with the tail light, which isn't pulsing...

I'll update when I get something wired up.

Blair
I never did. I eventually bought a factory taillight. My front signals are Oberons that are visible from the front and rear. They have the correct blink rate but dont light up the dash. I may say the hell with it and go back to a stock set up. Im only one handguard away as it is .
 

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So in the end, here is my solution. The integrated tail light only used one wire for each signal, the anode side or + side of the LED. The Hypermotard only switches the cathode side or -. Basically, you need to use the two wires from the BCM to drive a relay, that in turn drives each side of the tail light, so you need two relays. I first used a Novita EP28, which is a relay and has a timing circuit in it to drive the signal lights in a flash rate along with a 5W load resistor to make the BCM happy that there was a load and didn't need to hyperclick.

982392


What happens is the flashing signal overlapped with the timing of the EP28, so it made a pattern, like "flash flash wait flash flash" I thought that was kinda cool... but then I thought better and just used a regular relay Novita RL44.

If you are looking for the factory style connectors, I bought them from CustomLED.com here is a link. Here are the links to the load resistor and relay on amazon.

Blair
 
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