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Re: Rear Brake Service Bulletin SVC-11-014 09/08/2011

Motorcycle Info Pages - MTS1200 Service & Maintenance > Rear Brake Bleeding

Can someone here who has done this give feedback? How can I tell if my 2012 already has this?

My issue is with too much travel of the rear brake pedal.

Ducati Omaha lists the kit for my 1200S ABS at a whopping $195 US. Yikes, that's a lot for a new master cylinder and three hoses.

"69926281A - KIT FRENO POST MTS1200 ABS"

Thanks for any info.

-Bob
 

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Look at the plastic piece that comes out of your master cylinder and has the reservoir hose attached. Is it a 90 degree or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Look at the plastic piece that comes out of your master cylinder and has the reservoir hose attached. Is it a 90 degree or not?
Don't have the bike near me for a bit but I'm looking at the parts diagram, is it the long hose to the right, connected by clips #17? Image embedded below

 

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Don't have the bike near me for a bit but I'm looking at the parts diagram, is it the long hose to the right, connected by clips #17? Image embedded below

Nope. See the blue? They went from a 90 degree angle on the MASTER CYL to a 45-50 degree, also different bore size (maybe something else, not sure).
 

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Hello, I'm new to my 2011 MTS 1200S and I was told that this problem could be solved by using a brake fluid with much higher boiling point....like 'racing' higher. Has anyone heard this also? I was out for a ride yesterday and my rear brake was acting as if there was NO fluid in it, so I pulled over and checked it - sure enough it's full of fluid and the pedal travels the full distance :(
 

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There are loads of posts out there and also videos showing the bleeding procedure and using HT brake fluid. Many people have done this and restored the rear brake. I did it and mine is fine.
 

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FWIW YMMV.... My 13....Most improvement came from fitting a bleeder banjo to the rear ABS port. Of course quality dot 4 fluid. Now able to invoke the ABS on the rear.
Cheers
 

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I have a '13 that has never managed to keep a functioning rear brake for more than about 1000 miles at a time. I've found that bleeding by getting as much slack as possible in the hose so I can lift the caliper up above the ABS unit seems to be the only way to get a decent bleed. Doing that will get me a solid brake for about 1k miles or so, and then it gets squishy again. Mine looks like it's a 90deg bend off the master cylinder. Should I consider buying one of these kits?
 

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I have a '13 that has never managed to keep a functioning rear brake for more than about 1000 miles at a time. I've found that bleeding by getting as much slack as possible in the hose so I can lift the caliper up above the ABS unit seems to be the only way to get a decent bleed. Doing that will get me a solid brake for about 1k miles or so, and then it gets squishy again. Mine looks like it's a 90deg bend off the master cylinder. Should I consider buying one of these kits?
Have you installed the abs bleeder on the rear circuit?
 

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Hello, I'm new to my 2011 MTS 1200S and I was told that this problem could be solved by using a brake fluid with much higher boiling point....like 'racing' higher. Has anyone heard this also? I was out for a ride yesterday and my rear brake was acting as if there was NO fluid in it, so I pulled over and checked it - sure enough it's full of fluid and the pedal travels the full distance :(
A ridiculious expensive fluid isn't the cure all. If so, everyone, I mean everyone would be doing it. I use the Motul RBF600 and change fluid on a routine schedule. I have 100% rear brake at all times. Of course I've also swapped to the later master cylinder and installed the abs bleeder, and I invert the caliper to get an air-free bleed. If a brake is going to mush, most likely there is air in the system.
 
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