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Discussion Starter #1
I put on DP replica rearsets and pedals on my track bike. Everything went ok and I like them better than stock. Only weird thing is the brake pedal has tons of travel. It will go down all the way and even hit the fairing. The DP type pedal is longer than stock. Anyway in my garage even though it would stop the rear wheel when rotating by hand, when I went to a track day it wouldn't stop the bike from rolling much at all. Not too big a deal as I didn't go in the grass and therefore have to use it.

I don't recall the stock pedal having this much travel but that may be just because of the difference in length. And I can't remember if the rear brake ever really stopped the bike real well as I didn't use it except really in the pits or riding around my complex. Anyway is it possible I need to adjust the locknut and pushrod length?

I may swap the stock one back on as a test.
 

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Hi Sam, You will very likely have to extend the adjusting arm, and reset the stop screw. I put a NCR Ti. brake pedal on my bike, and had to do some adjusting.

I would first set the pedal hight stop screw [below]to get the pedal to stop in a location where it's comfortable [not too high where you're riding it, nor to low where you have to really reach to get pressure on it.] Then use the threaded adjuster to get it where it activates with the amount of foot pressure you like [I think I set mine at about 6mm of free play...but I can't remember as I never use mine either]

hope that helps
 

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You can adjust the free play on the pushrod and it may vary if you fit a different pedal BUT make sure you leave some free play otherwise your rear brake will bind and gradually lock up - but don't ask me how I know this


:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The freeplay thing was the tough thing for me to determine. I'm not understanding the difference really in setting the stopper (pedal height) and the pushrod. When you set the pedal height lower, it automatically will force the pushrod in. So why bother messing with the pushrod when you can just mess with the nut on the stopper? I messed with that some and would rotate the wheel by hand to make sure it spun freely. If I did set the pedal height low enough it would drag the rear brake. So I set it almost all the way out. I had a tough time determining when the piston was actually being pressed on I guess in the master.
 

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The whole idea is to get the pedal where you want it, then adjust the pushrod until it begins to engage the brake after about 4-6mm of downward free play. [or to suit your taste]

After you set the pedal ht, put the bike up on it's rear stand and start adjusting the threaded pushrod until you get it where it feels good.

There is no point in just "settling" for it however it is, you have the ability to make it perfect for yourself [if you want to] If you set your mind to it, you can do it in about ten minutes [aprox. 1 beer..lol]
 

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First you set the pedal height, then adjust the pushrod so it is just free in the master (otherwise you could be pre-depressing the pedal).

It is designed that way, shortcutting seems to me to be a bit risky. But it is just my opinionated spouting...
 

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Be careful when setting the freeplay with the pushrod, as DesmoDuke alluded to, as I had the brake bind up on me. My error was that when I first set the pushrod length, I spun the rear wheel to make sure it turned freely. I believe that the pushrod was, however, exerting a slight pressure on the piston in the master cylinder which caused the return to the reservoir to be blocked.
 

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The key word here is "freeplay".

You must have freeplay prior to the brake engaging. I'm sure the manual has a spec. on it [measured in play/distance at the brake pedal tip]

I don't want anyone misconstruing my earlier post

I just want to point out that there is more than enough adjustability to get:

1] the pedal where you want it based on ergonomics
2] the freeplay and engagement where it needs to be [remember, this is a track bike and some racers actually use their rear brakes to help settle the suspension and turn the bike] So it should be set up where you are comfortable using it. A pedal set too high, will cause you to lock it up in a panic situation, too low and you may not get the chance to apply the correct pressure.

I am certainly not advocating 0 freeplay, and a dragging rear brake.

some people never adjust their pedals, and have a 1/2" of freeplay...possibly because they have inadvertently been dragging the brake for the last few years.

Everybody has different length legs, size of feet, flexibility, etc.
 

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Getting the pedal just where I wanted it was a very important step in setting my bike for me. I agree with getting the pedal where you need it, and adjusting the pushrod to suit.


I need to mis-adjust the rear brakelight switch on my bike, cause when in the twisties I keep freaking out the guys behind me with the brake light. I dab the rear a LOT mid corner and exiting.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well if adjusting the pushrod entails NOT pushing in on it because you don't want to exert pressure on the piston then I haven't done that. That's one thing I didn't want to do. Weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK I haven't messed with it yet but have thought about this some. I know that if I press down all the way on the pedal while the bike is on it's rear stand the rear wheel will not rotate. Therefore meaning the rear brakes are activating. The concern I have is when I rode it and depressed the pedal all the way the bike did not stop at all. Didn't seem to slow down at all. So it's like it's really not putting enough pressure. I mean sure I could adjust the pushrod, but it's already proven that the rear brakes are being activated enough to stop the rear from turning on the stand. I can adjust the locknut on the stopper to set the pedal height some more and this will cause some brake drag. So I know the brakes are activating. It's like they're not exerting enough force. Is this bleeding?
 
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