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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My low mile almost new 2010 Multi had a functional rear brake when I got it in May. I've put on about 3500 miles and now no rear brake. It slowly went away just like I read in all the previous post. Now I can stand on it with my heel and just get a minor bit of drag.

So I got a 13mm master cylinder coming from OPP, and I know I need to learn the bleed job. Seems simple enough, but everything I've read in previous post says you need to add a bleeder at the ABS unit. The ABS unit has simple banjo bolts tying the brake lines in. I could not find anywhere how to add this ABS unit brake bleeder?

So can anyone say where to add the bleeder and what parts to use?
 

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I had the same issue on my 2014 PP. No rear brake, I did a simple front and rear flush, didn't touch the ABS unit. Perfectly solid brakes front and back.
 

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My low mile almost new 2010 Multi had a functional rear brake when I got it in May. I've put on about 3500 miles and now no rear brake. It slowly went away just like I read in all the previous post. Now I can stand on it with my heel and just get a minor bit of drag.



So I got a 13mm master cylinder coming from OPP, and I know I need to learn the bleed job. Seems simple enough, but everything I've read in previous post says you need to add a bleeder at the ABS unit. The ABS unit has simple banjo bolts tying the brake lines in. I could not find anywhere how to add this ABS unit brake bleeder?



So can anyone say where to add the bleeder and what parts to use?

http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/indexf78c.html?fa=contentGeneric.qgntgwplktwyjcps&pageId=6220603



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Be aware that the Ducati version bottomed out on my ABS unit and I had to use two copper washers on the bottom.

Wanted to do the front brake as well and ended up ordering two of these. They’ll get here sometime next month.

Lots of aluminum ones in the USA but they won’t torque to the proper value I’ve heard.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232441109447


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Be aware that the Ducati version bottomed out on my ABS unit and I had to use two copper washers on the bottom.

Wanted to do the front brake as well and ended up ordering two of these. They’ll get here sometime next month.

Lots of aluminum ones in the USA but they won’t torque to the proper value I’ve heard.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232441109447

So is what we are looking for a M10 x 1.00mm to fit into the ABS unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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I ordered 2 of these Magura banjo bolts with bleeder screw.

http://a.co/asrAk8s

I should get them next week. These were the only ones I could find M10x1 that were not aluminum and available to be delivered within a week.



I'm hoping my 13mm master cylinder arrives soon from OPP. I ordered it on 7/20 and paid for it, but have heard nothing from OPP since. I sent them email and called them and no response.

https://www.oppracing.com/product_d...rear-master-cylinder-ps13c-black-wo-push-rod/


Be aware that you’ll have to get at least two copper washers from Ducati. The ABS unit has recessed spots for the banjo bolts and I have not found anything else that will fit. And I have bought quite a few, haha.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Be aware that you’ll have to get at least two copper washers from Ducati. The ABS unit has recessed spots for the banjo bolts and I have not found anything else that will fit. And I have bought quite a few, haha.
These ones worked. They came with 2 copper washers one for top and one for bottom of the hose connector. I have a copper washer kit in case I needed more, but didn't need more. They seemed to just fit in the ABS unit. Looked like they would be too long but didn't bottom out. No leaking. Rear brake works great again.

http://a.co/d/4D8RikI
 

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These ones worked. They came with 2 copper washers one for top and one for bottom of the hose connector. I have a copper washer kit in case I needed more, but didn't need more. They seemed to just fit in the ABS unit. Looked like they would be too long but didn't bottom out. No leaking. Rear brake works great again.



http://a.co/d/4D8RikI


Awesome. Hope it lasts for a while.


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These ones worked. They came with 2 copper washers one for top and one for bottom of the hose connector. I have a copper washer kit in case I needed more, but didn't need more. They seemed to just fit in the ABS unit. Looked like they would be too long but didn't bottom out. No leaking. Rear brake works great again.



http://a.co/d/4D8RikI


Mine get here Monday. Better than October! :)


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Awesome. Hope it lasts for a while.
From what I hear, it last a few thousand miles. Then you have to do it again. When I got the bike at 1800 miles the dealer had bleed the rear and they worked OK. By 5500 the rear was completely dead.

Now my bleed/flush job with the ABS banjo bleeder and caliper up in cargo tray seems to have worked better. The lever is full stiff adjusted all the way in. It was never that good before.

From what I've read, nobody seems to have a definitive long term solution for the rear mush. Just a lot of different approaches to get it back to normal for a while.

Fluidwise I got highly rated Castrol Synthetic. http://a.co/d/9zvTLJD
I did not hear any long term success with the expensive fluid approach. Or with the heat shield approaches.

My biggest hope is with the 13mm master cylinder. I've ordered one from OPP Racing on 7/20 and still not received it. I've sent them emails and called them a dozen times and left messages, but no response, no delivery. They got my money, but took it and run.
 

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From what I hear, it last a few thousand miles. Then you have to do it again. When I got the bike at 1800 miles the dealer had bleed the rear and they worked OK. By 5500 the rear was completely dead.



Now my bleed/flush job with the ABS banjo bleeder and caliper up in cargo tray seems to have worked better. The lever is full stiff adjusted all the way in. It was never that good before.



From what I've read, nobody seems to have a definitive long term solution for the rear mush. Just a lot of different approaches to get it back to normal for a while.



Fluidwise I got highly rated Castrol Synthetic. http://a.co/d/9zvTLJD

I did not hear any long term success with the expensive fluid approach. Or with the heat shield approaches.



My biggest hope is with the 13mm master cylinder. I've ordered one from OPP Racing on 7/20 and still not received it. I've sent them emails and called them a dozen times and left messages, but no response, no delivery. They got my money, but took it and run.


You want to make sure you have 1-2 mm of gap between the brake lever and the master cylinder piston. The fluid expands and if it doesn’t have anywhere to go it will press the pads against the rotor. I missed this detail the first time and my rear caliper was too hot to touch after a 2 mile ride.

Check out post #37

https://www.ducati.ms/forums/44-multistrada/706273-new-theory-crappy-rear-brake.html


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You want to make sure you have 1-2 mm of gap between the brake lever and the master cylinder piston. The fluid expands and if it doesn’t have anywhere to go it will press the pads against the rotor. I missed this detail the first time and my rear caliper was too hot to touch after a 2 mile ride.

Check out post #37

https://www.ducati.ms/forums/44-multistrada/706273-new-theory-crappy-rear-brake.html
Thanks opus. I'm leaving on a trip around the Olympic Peninsula today. I'll adjust that before I go.
 

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@mts1200mike Interested to see how your MC change goes. Have you read the article (video) from canyonchasers on the "multistrada brake fix" using the SRF fluid?

I just bled my 2014 which had a functional rear brake using the SRF. Did give some improvement on the front, not sure on the back, but no worse anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@mts1200mike Interested to see how your MC change goes. Have you read the article (video) from canyonchasers on the "multistrada brake fix" using the SRF fluid?
I don’t think expensive fluid works long term. The bubbles (air in the system) forms somehow. That part is unknown, but it does form over time and makes its way up to the abs unit. Seems to do it more with the rear, so heat is suspect, but could be other factors like position of the components.

No matter what fluid is used, if you do a good bleed they will work for a time. Expensive fluid might hold up better to the heat, but then it absorbs water fast and needs to be changed. So you are left with the same problem, have to bleed again.

My strategy is to assume they will need to be flushed and bleed every 2-3-4 thousand miles and to just get the best overall performance with that in mind and to make them last as long as possible. If you could get 5K out of the rear brakes that would be pretty good.

Hey, I’m in Vancouver, WA. Where are you?
Last night I went from Kingston, up over to Port Angeles around Lake Cressant down to Forks. Then in the dark 100 miles from Forks to Ocean Shores with the bats and owls dive bombing me. Hit 135 with full bags top speed.
 

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I don’t think expensive fluid works long term. The bubbles (air in the system) forms somehow. That part is unknown, but it does form over time and makes its way up to the abs unit. Seems to do it more with the rear, so heat is suspect, but could be other factors like position of the components.

No matter what fluid is used, if you do a good bleed they will work for a time. Expensive fluid might hold up better to the heat, but then it absorbs water fast and needs to be changed. So you are left with the same problem, have to bleed again.

My strategy is to assume they will need to be flushed and bleed every 2-3-4 thousand miles and to just get the best overall performance with that in mind and to make them last as long as possible. If you could get 5K out of the rear brakes that would be pretty good.
Maybe, I'll see. My rear has always worked OK. Never had it go to the stop so to speak so I assume it never had air. I have a CAT and do not have the MC heatshield installed. This was my first bleed at ~13.5k miles. Did it with a vacuum bleeder. I can initiate the rear ABS on dry pavement but I have to push fairly hard to do it (with toe not heel). Just lucky no air appears to have gotten into my ABS system yet. My front has gotten soft and I did bleed it once at about 8k miles, old fashioned method with everyday DOT4. Don't know why mine is different than others. I come from dirt bike racing and using the rear brake is ingrained in my soul. So I may use it even more than others. Hopefully it continues. Like that clear fluid in my reservoirs :)
 
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