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I was at the shop getting my suspension setup and when trying to raise the rear the damn lock nut is fused to the adjustment bar. Any thoughts on trying to break it apart? If I have to drop the swingarm down can I just remove the main lower shock/adjuster bolt, without tension from the shock? I'm thinking if I take the time to remove the adjustment rod then I should probably just get a new incase the old can't be salvaged. Who has them cheap?
 

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A common complaint mine was too, as was a friends. You will need to take the tie-rod off the bike. Put a wooden wedge or something under the rear tyre to take the weight then remove the top bolt at the supension rocker. Then undo the bolt through the swinging arm the holds both the shock and the tie-rod. Once you have the rod off the bike apply plenty of releasing fluid and leave it overnight. Grip it in a vice and try to undo the balljoint, if it doesn't want to come apply heat and try again. Once it starts to move work it back and forth applying plenty of releasing fluid and hopefully it will come out OK - they have been known to gall the threads. Put it back together with plenty of copper grease to make adjustment easy the next time.
 

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Derek pretty much said exactly what i tried but i was not so lucky.
I ended up rounding off the edges of the ride height adjuster where you use the wrench to turn it. I then just grabbed a pipe wrench and used that. It put big gouges in the metal but thats all i could do at that point. After a little bit of effort the damn thing snapped at the top bolt.





This happened to me on Friday and i panicked because i have a track day this coming saturday. I found one and had it overnighted to me. When i first got it i backed it out completely on both ends of the rod and i could tell that the upper bolt was corroded so i ran a tap and die through the rod and bolt to make sure it wouldnt get stuck. Low and behold when i put the rod back together and installed it on the bike i couldnt fuggin turn it. IT SEIZED again!!!!!! Luckily i still had it backed out enough to where it was useful. The lower ball joint bolt spun very easily so i just used that one end to do my ride height adjusting. It was a pain in the ass because i had to keep taking the ride height adjuster on and off.
 

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A tip that may make life easier :)

When you go to put the rod back on it can appear difficult to get it to slide back into the lower fixing. This acn be caused by the fixing that is mounted in the swinging arm (that the bold goes into) which is pulled tight when the bolt is tigtened and stays there when the rod is taken out.

If you put the lower bolt back in , before trying to insert the rod , and give it a few gentle taps you will see the fixing move thus widening the gap to allow easy refitting of the rod.
Hope this is clear as its a difficult thing to put into words.

I mention it because it got me very frustrated before I realised what was causing the problem.
 

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I would suggest you use a non metal type lubricant, as some anti seizes, contain metals that can react with the aluminium, over time causing corrosion.
Marine grade grease would be better.

Craig
 

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When I adjusted mine I knew there could be trouble so I took a week to do it. Every night i sprayed some WD40 and gave it a tap with a bit of 1" x1" and a hammer. The on the weekend I had a go and it moved.
 

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Mine was/is frozen. Neither I nor my neighbor with a machine shop could get it to budge without risking breaking it so it was deemed "close enough anyway the hell with it".
 

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Got mine done this weekend.
As my neighbour borrowed my torch, I placed the siezed item in the oven at 400 degrees for 1/2 an hour.
Only the bottom was seized so ,after heating it I quenched it in a jar of releaseal.
Voila! came off no effort.Why engineers use aluminum and steel together????? Not good.
 
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