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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, just a quick question (or two, or three :p). After finally getting both the wheels off and inventing new curse words, I noticed the speedo attachment on the front wheel looks like crap! I have a terrible picture here, as my phone is bad at being a camera:



Wondering what to clean it out with?

Also, the axles I am assuming are dry axles. What should I clean those with? If they are not dry axles, what should I lube them with?

I bought some Moly lube for the chain tensioners, as described in the desmo times book. I used to use simple green to clean everything on my old bike, as that was highly recommended, so I picked some of that stuff up. Also have Dupont Teflon multi-use for chain-lubing.

Also, anything else I should look at while the front and back wheels are off?

Thanks guys!
 

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I clean parts with solvent or kerosene and an old toothbrush. It's a good idea to lightly lube the axle with any kind of lightweight oil to prevent surface rust. I've heard Simple Green is bad for aluminum.
 

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I've heard Simple Green is bad for aluminum.
...Awww crap. Well, haven't used it yet, but that means I'm out like $6. On the website they're basically saying don't leave it on for more than ten minutes. Kerosene doesn't cause problems? You just apply it with a toothbrush or dunk the parts in it for a bit?

You think I can use a little bit of moly lube on the axles?
 

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I clean parts with solvent or kerosene and an old toothbrush. It's a good idea to lightly lube the axle with any kind of lightweight oil to prevent surface rust. I've heard Simple Green is bad for aluminum.
The workshop manual says grease the speedo drive and the axle and thread with "multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease" The Shell product it lists is Shell Alvania R3.

Simple Green - I have not used any of their products but apparently there is now a product specifically for automotive which meets a Boeing material spec.

Quoting their web site "Extreme Simple Green Motorsports is ideal for use on aluminum, chrome, titanium and other high tech alloys, painted and gel-coated surfaces, anodized and electroplated parts, carbon fiber, a variety of metals, plastics, rubber and much more."

I am going to track some down to give it a go.

Whilst the front wheel is out, you may wish to carefully pick out the bearing seals, so they can be reused, wash out the bearings and repack with high temp bearing grease to prolong their life.

Richard
 

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I agree with Punch. You should grease the speedo drive, although I really don't think it matters what kind of grease you use. Ditto for the axle; light oil, grease, whatever. Just enough to keep rust from forming. I have never used Simple Green, just repeating what I've heard. Others may want to give their 2 cents worth. As fas as cleaning with solvent or kerosene, you can soak the part for a while if you want, then brush off the gunk. Neither will hurt metal parts. Dry as well as you can (compressed air is nice if you have it) and then oil or grease the part. Moly lube on the axles is fine; just be sparing with it.
 

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Big day for agreeing with people!

The lube on the axle shaft will be rust protection and I guess to help it slide through during installation.

The lube on the thread may well act as an isolator between the dissimilar metals of the axle and the forks.

Simple Green - peoples' experiences would be informative.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Whilst the front wheel is out, you may wish to carefully pick out the bearing seals, so they can be reused, wash out the bearings and repack with high temp bearing grease to prolong their life.

Richard
I should get the Workshop manual. Desmotimes is good, but it seems to be lacking in some areas.

I was confused about this, however. When I delivered my wheels to the local bike shop, I delivered the front wheel, rotor and all. Only thing missing from it was the speedo piece, which is on my garage floor. Didn't inspect it closely enough to determine where the bearing was, which was shortsighted of me. I don't remember if I took the back one out or not. If it's like my old bike, the back wheel bearing/the cover was not fastened to the wheel; you could just pull it out.

I'll pick up some lithium grease as I assume it's different than moly lube. i got a huge tube of the moly (for like, $10) so I could probably get away with using it on the axles right?

As for the rest, I might use the simple green sparingly on the speedo piece just to clean it up as I think it's plastic. Kerosene for the rest!

Edit: the thing I am confused about is where exactly the wheel bearing/seal is in the front wheel.
 

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I am assuming that your Simple Green is the same thing as our Clean Green.

IMO this is the MOST brilliant cleaning solution EVER, I've used it for a very long time now and use it on just about everything in and around the house. I am aware of the concerns regarding this stuff, but I can honestly say that it has never damaged anything that I have used it on, it will either clean it or it will not.

Use it undiluted for heavy cleaning, like on very dirty engines, use a brush and rinse thoroughly with lots of water, rinse and repeat if necessary, to remove oil staines from the workshop floor, spray generously, scrub a bit, let it dry, spray again, scrub again, rinse with water, repeat until stain is out, also safe to use on carpets and upholstery.

For dirty overalls and the dogs bedding, use 100ml. and just put it in the washing machine, smells great.

For geneal gleaning around the house, mix 50-100ml. in a 25L bucket of water, also safe for leather (just remember some leatherfood after cleaning).

For windows, mix 20ml. in a 25L bucket of water, cleans without leaving streaks.

After cleaning you can just dump the remains on the lawn or in the garden without any ill effects.

For me, this stuff is a life changer, try it, experiment with it, you will probably be pleasantly surprised.
 

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I should get the Workshop manual. Desmotimes is good, but it seems to be lacking in some areas.

I was confused about this, however. When I delivered my wheels to the local bike shop, I delivered the front wheel, rotor and all. Only thing missing from it was the speedo piece, which is on my garage floor. Didn't inspect it closely enough to determine where the bearing was, which was shortsighted of me. I don't remember if I took the back one out or not. If it's like my old bike, the back wheel bearing/the cover was not fastened to the wheel; you could just pull it out.

I'll pick up some lithium grease as I assume it's different than moly lube. i got a huge tube of the moly (for like, $10) so I could probably get away with using it on the axles right?

As for the rest, I might use the simple green sparingly on the speedo piece just to clean it up as I think it's plastic. Kerosene for the rest!

Edit: the thing I am confused about is where exactly the wheel bearing/seal is in the front wheel.
I wouldn't worry too much about the wheel bearing seals. Just check (with your finger) that they rotate nice and smoothly. Nothing that feels 'lumpy' when rotating the inner (the bit the axle goes through). Wheel bearings are cheap, and easy to replace. i.e. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

As for lube for the speedo drive - make sure it's a HIGH TEMPERATURE grease! Not the place you want to have grease melting, then leaking out the speedo drive. Can make stopping kinda interesting.

Be careful putting the wheel/speedo drive back in, as it's easy to crush the drive plate (large washer like bit with tabs), which will stuff the speedo drive plastic lugs, or seize it. DAMHIK.
I had to replace the plastic gear on mine a while back - and they're like rocking horse doo-doo to obtain. Even the factory had run out of stock, took months before they got another batch made.
 

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I should get the Workshop manual. Desmotimes is good, but it seems to be lacking in some areas.

Edit: the thing I am confused about is where exactly the wheel bearing/seal is in the front wheel.
The workshop manual is kicking around on the web. I don't remember where I found mine unfortunately.

Seals - looks like ours do not use seals as per attachment. If they were fitted they would be directly over the outer bearing side.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wouldn't worry too much about the wheel bearing seals. Just check (with your finger) that they rotate nice and smoothly. Nothing that feels 'lumpy' when rotating the inner (the bit the axle goes through). Wheel bearings are cheap, and easy to replace. i.e. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

As for lube for the speedo drive - make sure it's a HIGH TEMPERATURE grease! Not the place you want to have grease melting, then leaking out the speedo drive. Can make stopping kinda interesting.

Be careful putting the wheel/speedo drive back in, as it's easy to crush the drive plate (large washer like bit with tabs), which will stuff the speedo drive plastic lugs, or seize it. DAMHIK.
I had to replace the plastic gear on mine a while back - and they're like rocking horse doo-doo to obtain. Even the factory had run out of stock, took months before they got another batch made.
Wow, I'll keep this in mind! Thanks! I bought lithium grease....somehow doubt it's high temp. Would high temp RTV work instead?

jajaja kidding. I'll look for a high temp grease. The lithium was $3. Not sure I care.

I bought a can for Kerosene. Gonna pick up a gallon tomorrow. IIRC it's safe on plastics, so I was just going to use the pan I use to drain oil into. Gonna soak the axles for a bit then toothbrush them.

Edit: Uhhh Punch? Didn't receive the PM. Keep in mind, two months ago I was barely changing my own oil in my car. Saying I'm a greenhorn is an understatement. Learned a lot in these two months. Is this manual in Greek?
 

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Didn't receive the PM.
Is this manual in Greek?
Sent PM again, maybe I stuffed up!

Good old English, with maybe an Italian twist in places.

If you don't get an email about a PM, then on the left of your screen there is Site navigation.
Under Forum click on User CP
The under Private Messages click on List messages, then click on Inbox.

Richard
 
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