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Discussion Starter #1
I'm fitting a 5-spoker from an '05 ST4s and am having issues/questions.

I fully seated a new bearing on the right, no problem. Put the inner-spacer in and then the left bearing.

Right now, the bearings spin properly, but the inner spacer feels tight and clunky when I try to rotate it, even though I can wiggle it side to side a very slight amount.

Questions are; should the inner spacer spin freely or wiggle at all?

Should the bearings be further inboard to keep it from spinning? Or do I need to back them out some to get the spacer to spin more free? And will torquing the axle put load on the bearings sufficient to bind the inner spacer again?

Not sure how this is supposed to work and the shop manual is absolutely useless on this subject.

Thanks much.
 

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The inner spacer shouldn't move at all. It, the axle and the inner races of the bearing are all stationary when the wheel spins.
 

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Agree. The inner spacer should contact the inner (stationary) races of both L + R bearings. The axle pretty much centers the mess. And as Chuck said, these parts are stationary with the axle.

On the bench, the spacer should rotate with the inner races. And should be comfortably snug between the bearings. You may be able to push the spacer slightly one way, and then the other (radially), but it will be centered again, once the axle is inserted.

PS: Assume this is 4 ur ST2 (in ur signature line)? What about the speedo drive?
 

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Thanks for the replies. I'll give the bearings a few more taps to make sure they're good and go from there.

Assume this is 4 ur ST2 (in ur signature line)? What about the speedo drive?
Correct, this for my ST2. I'm not sure what you're asking, specifically though?

I haven't installed the relay drive ring yet --wanted to make sure bearings and spacer were good before popping that piece into the hub.

Is there a compatibility issue with the newer wheel and the older speedo drive? I didn't even think about that part. Or are you getting at something else?

If it's not already apparent, I don't really know WTH I'm doing :grin2:
 

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When torqued to spec, the inner spacer will be the correct length to preload the bearings, assuming the outer bearing races are seated properly. A home shop often won't have the best tools to seat the bearings. If you can't tell if the bearings are seated, take a punch with a diameter about the same as the width of the exposed race size and tap around the race. If you get the same high pitch response, it is set. If it is not set or moves, you will get a lower frequency thud. Rinse and repeat until is is the same pitch all the way around. The races are very hard, this will not damage them. If you are hearing challenged, the rebound of the hammer on the punch will be like hitting an anvil as opposed to hitting a piece of aluminum.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I'll give the bearings a few more taps to make sure they're good and go from there.


Correct, this for my ST2. I'm not sure what you're asking, specifically though?

I haven't installed the relay drive ring yet --wanted to make sure bearings and spacer were good before popping that piece into the hub.

Is there a compatibility issue with the newer wheel and the older speedo drive? I didn't even think about that part. Or are you getting at something else?

If it's not already apparent, I don't really know WTH I'm doing :grin2:
I'm not sire about this, either. But the 2005 ST4s front wheel will not have the speedo drive hardware for our mechanical speedos. And I wasn't sure if the newer wheel can or will accommodate the drive ring...
 
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