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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings from Los Angeles!

I started this project in January and have been making pretty good progress so far. Hopefully the funds don't dry up soon!

I am building a 748 using a 1100 DS engine from a '09 hyper. Use will be for street, and maybe ill even make it to the track, though ive been saying that for years..

I started with a frame and have been scavenging for decent deals on parts. This is my first major build and currently I don't have any electrical components, so I figured it would be best to ask some of the knowledgeable folks here could point me in the right direction.

This is where I am currently, frame, swingarm and engine are all bolted up:
1002476


The engine has the magneti marelli TPS and I am leaning towards using period correct clocks, though it isnt set in stone.

I've been told that the 5AM ECU, just like the one in my S2R, would work with the engine and gauges.

If so, which harness would be my best option? and would I want a power commander for this?

Any other options I should consider?

Thanks!
 

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If you use an IAW5AM HW610 (look under the sticker), buy these
Diagnostic Interface for GuzziDiag JPDiag DucatiDiag
cables, and spend, at most, 4 hours to learn how to use the GuzziDiag and TuneECU software, you don't need a PC.
You'd have more control over the mapping too, plus less chance of something going wrong.
May come in handy for your S2R too.

In my 1100SS and 996, I used (modified) ST3 wiring harnesses, mostly because I found them cheap.
Had to buy a couple of TPS connectors though.

Which model of Marelli TPS ?

Cheers.
 

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You could use a harness from the 1100ds hyper or Multistrada. For the ECU, I highly recommend getting a microtec from Mark at ducshop. This ECU will remove the immobilizer and prevent any headaches (and also won’t have to run a power commander). With the above harnesses, you can route the wiring to the stock 748 battery box location and keep everything nice and tidy.
 

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You could use a harness from the 1100ds hyper or Multistrada. For the ECU, I highly recommend getting a microtec from Mark at ducshop. This ECU will remove the immobilizer and prevent any headaches (and also won’t have to run a power commander). With the above harnesses, you can route the wiring to the stock 748 battery box location and keep everything nice and tidy.
A legit solution too.(y)
 

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Hi,
I would recommend
  • Wiring harness from 1000SS/800SS or M1000/S2R1000
  • ECU Microtec or 5AM HW610 with 1000SS DP map with immo turned off to start with as a base.
  • Throttle bodies with brown or white pico injectors
  • TPS NOT marked PF3C with slotted hole. Should read PF1C or CTS with round hole.
  • No fuel pressure regulator since you have that in the fuel tank
  • No Air stepper motor for idle if you go for above map.
The reason is that the older setup is less complicated.
The newer such as HYM have the idle stepper motor and canbus to the instrument with sensors that make it more complicated.

Rear cylinder exhaust pipe is always a pain for this setup. Scrambler 1100 or M1100Evo first rear exhaust pipe could come in handy when trying to avoid the rear spring and rod.

Question: Did you lower the swingarm mountings in the engine 5mm or how did you solve rear engine bolt?


/Henrik
 

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Smut peddler
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I have nothing to offer, other than I love this idea. If I ran the world, every motorcycle would be powered by a 1100 2V mota. Albeit, I'm an EVO addict. Keep the updates coming.
 
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'06 S2R 1100 Custom, '12 SF 1040
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I would always go with the harness that is the least coplicated. CANBUS can complicate things, but the ability to disable the o2 sensors and immo makes things much simpler. Your decision comes down to which type of speed sensor youd use.

996 rear caliper bracket doesn't have an accommodation for it, so you could switch brackets and run a 245mm disk as opposed to the 220mm one on the 996, you could use the front speed sensor from a 996 which would connect to the 996 dash easily, or you could use an after market one (I'm rigging a motogadget one into my s2r harness once i finalize the battery box location). I the 996 unit should give you the odometer and speed function, but havent looked into the most efficient way to connect the crank position sensor. Those wires are shielded so cutting and splicing has a few extra steps and the wiring diagram gets weird if you dont understand grounding the shield (I'm still not sure if I know exactly how that works).

If you eliminate the steppor motor, thats one less thing you need to worry about and if you use the 996 throttle housing, you have a built in idle speed lever.

Theres plenty of options, it all depends on whats easiest for your skillset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you use an IAW5AM HW610 (look under the sticker), buy these
Diagnostic Interface for GuzziDiag JPDiag DucatiDiag
cables, and spend, at most, 4 hours to learn how to use the GuzziDiag and TuneECU software, you don't need a PC.
You'd have more control over the mapping too, plus less chance of something going wrong.
May come in handy for your S2R too.

In my 1100SS and 996, I used (modified) ST3 wiring harnesses, mostly because I found them cheap.
Had to buy a couple of TPS connectors though.

Which model of Marelli TPS ?

Cheers.

Really like this idea over the Microtec since I can use it with my S2R and it's A LOT cheaper than the microtec unit.
Always enjoy learning something new so would not be opposed to that.

Im thinking of picking up a monster harness since it has a lot of what I need as a base and go from there. They're only $100 or so on ebay.

The TPS is
PF1C/00
2307AE
Oval plug with 3 pins
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi,
I would recommend
  • Wiring harness from 1000SS/800SS or M1000/S2R1000
  • ECU Microtec or 5AM HW610 with 1000SS DP map with immo turned off to start with as a base.
  • Throttle bodies with brown or white pico injectors
  • TPS NOT marked PF3C with slotted hole. Should read PF1C or CTS with round hole.
  • No fuel pressure regulator since you have that in the fuel tank
  • No Air stepper motor for idle if you go for above map.
The reason is that the older setup is less complicated.
The newer such as HYM have the idle stepper motor and canbus to the instrument with sensors that make it more complicated.

Rear cylinder exhaust pipe is always a pain for this setup. Scrambler 1100 or M1100Evo first rear exhaust pipe could come in handy when trying to avoid the rear spring and rod.

Question: Did you lower the swingarm mountings in the engine 5mm or how did you solve rear engine bolt?


/Henrik
Looks like I have that TPS already so thats good. I still don't have the fuel pump for the tank, but good to know that it should work.

I made the swingarm opening oval on the engine case:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You could use a harness from the 1100ds hyper or Multistrada. For the ECU, I highly recommend getting a microtec from Mark at ducshop. This ECU will remove the immobilizer and prevent any headaches (and also won’t have to run a power commander). With the above harnesses, you can route the wiring to the stock 748 battery box location and keep everything nice and tidy.
I was initially going with the microtec, but at $1,000, I would rather reflash the ecu and remove the immobilizer that way. I am actually going to relocate the battery elsewhere, as I want the bike to look good without the side fairings hehe, so I dont really need cables to be in stock locations. I was thinking about using a monster harness for that same reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have nothing to offer, other than I love this idea. If I ran the world, every motorcycle would be powered by a 1100 2V mota. Albeit, I'm an EVO addict. Keep the updates coming.
I originally wanted to run an EVO, but they're scarce! I decided on the DS instead because it has a good amount parts out there. I'll be start a build thread once I have the electrical sorted - should be smooth sailing after that!
 

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I was initially going with the microtec, but at $1,000, I would rather reflash the ecu and remove the immobilizer that way. I am actually going to relocate the battery elsewhere, as I want the bike to look good without the side fairings hehe, so I dont really need cables to be in stock locations. I was thinking about using a monster harness for that same reason.
You might want to spend a few hours of familiarization first, with the map editing s/w "TunerPro" (not the "RT version") and the attached .xdf (tells the s/w where to find the maps and tables) that the .bin (specific to the model firmware -code and maps- that is written in the ECU) contains.
Just remove the ".pdf" extension.
I use them for my 1100SS.
Tutorials you can find in this forum and on the net.
 

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Hello Angelo,
the bin you posted from your 1100SS is for a 1100 Hyper Engine? With Injectors from Hyper?
Thank you
Best Regards
 

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'06 S2R 1100 Custom, '12 SF 1040
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Throw some iwp189 injectors in there, might be overkill but it’ll work fine with the ecu. All the ecu does is tell the injectors when and how much fuel the injectors fire.

im throwing 999 tbs and 12 hole injectors on my ds1100 and I don’t foresee any problems other than too much fuel, which can be corrected in a few ways.

If it’s the same engine, timing should be roughly the same, but someone please feel free to correct me on this if I’m wrong.
 

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Hello Angelo,
the bin you posted from your 1100SS is for a 1100 Hyper Engine? With Injectors from Hyper?
Thank you
Best Regards
Hello,
IIRC, I couldn't find a proper .xdf/.bin combo from a 1100 at the time, and used a SC1000DS (monoposto) as a starting point.
Just reduced the fuel times by 30%, to account for the larger IWP069 (999) injectors, and went from there datalogging/correcting and so on.
I'm afraid, this .bin won't be of any use to anyone, as it's been developed for a big valved, downdraught ports, race cams, custom big airbox and separate 2 to 2 exhaust engine.
My aircooled 1100 downdraught heads
Cheers.

Throw some iwp189 injectors in there, might be overkill but it’ll work fine with the ecu. All the ecu does is tell the injectors when and how much fuel the injectors fire.

im throwing 999 tbs and 12 hole injectors on my ds1100 and I don’t foresee any problems other than too much fuel, which can be corrected in a few ways.

If it’s the same engine, timing should be roughly the same, but someone please feel free to correct me on this if I’m wrong.
Alex,
I did, in the hope of better atomization at wide open throttle.
Just reduced the fuel times a bit to compensate for the difference between the 189s and 069s.
No problems other that, I'd have to check the fueling again.:confused:
 

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'06 S2R 1100 Custom, '12 SF 1040
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Hello,
IIRC, I couldn't find a proper .xdf/.bin combo from a 1100 at the time, and used a SC1000DS (monoposto) as a starting point.
Just reduced the fuel times by 30%, to account for the larger IWP069 (999) injectors, and went from there datalogging/correcting and so on.
I'm afraid, this .bin won't be of any use to anyone, as it's been developed for a big valved, downdraught ports, race cams, custom big airbox and separate 2 to 2 exhaust engine.
My aircooled 1100 downdraught heads
Cheers.


Alex,
I did, in the hope of better atomization at wide open throttle.
Just reduced the fuel times a bit to compensate for the difference between the 189s and 069s.
No problems other that, I'd have to check the fueling again.:confused:
You’re running the iwp189? Or the oem 999 injector? I still haven’t even made the airbox, but I’m sure fueling will be the least of my issues with this moody bike I’m building 😉
 

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You’re running the iwp189? Or the oem 999 injector? I still haven’t even made the airbox, but I’m sure fueling will be the least of my issues with this moody bike I’m building 😉
Started with the 999 TBs and the yellow iwp069 999 oem injectors.
I did most of the fuel tuning with these.
I switched to shower type, iwp189 - pink, recently.
Haven't done any testing with them yet. :(

Cheers.
 

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Started with the 999 TBs and the yellow iwp069 999 oem injectors.
I did most of the fuel tuning with these.
I switched to shower type, iwp189 - pink, recently.
Haven't done any testing with them yet. :(

Cheers.
let me know how it goes! If I get to it before you, I’d be happy to share
 

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What's the purpose of not using the stock 1100 TB/ injectors? I know nothing of this, so I'm just curious.
 

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What's the purpose of not using the stock 1100 TB/ injectors? I know nothing of this, so I'm just curious.
Honestly, there isn’t much of a point. You won’t gain much power, if anything.
I just wanted shower injection for smoother fueling because fuel was pooling in my intake manifolds. Probably something I did wrong on my end when I was first learning, but once I saw the beautifully designed 12 hole injectors, I was set on using them. plugging them in the oem in-line setup didn’t make sense since the increased fuel flow would just shoot right into the manifold, which in my mind would not be effective.

999 throttle bodies can be found for cheap, and since I had an extra set of injectors, the experiment was a go. It’s a lot of fabrication and @highflyer is a guru when it comes to making things work, so a lot of credit goes to him for helping with the process.
 
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