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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

Long time lurker around here and figured I'd loop you in to my custom build. I've always had Yamaha street and race bikes until about 8 years ago when I decided to take on a very fun project, build a custom 1098 from the ground up, bolt by bolt!

I gave it a lot of focus for the first two years and got her about 85-90% complete when I then moved up to Fairbanks, Alaska. I really needed a solid dyno tune but there wasn't anyone I trusted up there to properly tune the Microtec ECU especially in such a small town. I was in AK for about 5 years but am now back in Portland where I have options again for tuning.

I came across a good deal for a part I needed and it re-sparked my motivation to finish this long awaited project of mine.

I'll post some updates but for anyone who cares for the full write-up with lots of good info you can check it out here:
Project 1098X - Full Write-up

Here's a sneak peak of basically how she sits now, see you all around the forums!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone!

I did a check up on the bike today since she hadn't been touched whatsoever in about 8 months. Drained old fuel and put a gallon of fresh fuel in, gave her a full wash and tried to start her up! First go she turned over but didn't start, 2nd attempt the same. I let her sit for 5 minutes and then the 3rd time BAM, started right up! I let her run for 30 min or so and took her for a spin... and by "spin" I mean I road up the street and back down at 5 mph, I may have even hit 10mph! haha.

Did a once over to make sure everything looked good and refresh my memory on what small items she needs. I need to buy a new banjo bolt with a bleed nipple for the clutch slave since right now I only have a banjo bolt on the slave cylinder. It's funny because I was trying to remember how I originally bled the clutch in the first place without the nipple.

A little surface rust on the clutch basket and the outer plate area, I'll take it apart and get her all cleaned up in the next few days or at least this coming weekend. All in all she's in good shape and most importantly, still runs! But desperately needs a proper dyno tune.

I ordered a new rear caliper so I'll have a rear brake so that I can work on scheduling a dyno tune. But a proper full tune isn't that cheap so realistically the tune is probably a couple months out for me.
 

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It's funny because I was trying to remember how I originally bled the clutch in the first place without the nipple.
Its doable without a nipple, but the nipple makes it easier.
Push the liquid from the slave up with a big syringe (vets often have the proper ones), then open the banjo bolt ever so slightly with a rag around it while at the same time applying gentle pressure on the lever.
(Incase the banjo bolt isnt the highest point, you may need to relocate the pump to make that happen)
 

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HI mate! Love your project a lot, as I have a 1098 as well. I do have some questions if you could help? Fist is I would love to know where you connect the hoses on the throttle bodies to sync them? I want to do a sync but I’m stumped and do I need extra screws or adapters? Second is I see you have have a full system with race ecu, I just bought a 70mm full termi and dp race ecu with hi flow air filter fitted it to the bike and runs worse than the oem exhaust with Akra slip ons. I’m wondering if you have this issue? Folks are telling me to re fit the oem with slip ons and sell all the gear I just fitted, what do you think?
 

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Look on the manifold/cylinder head (right hand side) and you will a Alan head screw (4mm). This is the port that you inserted a threaded tube which in turn you attach rubber hose to the balance gauges. Understand that balance of the throttle bodies only makes the bike idle smother and doesn’t effect the tune or running of the bike once the clutch is released. It won’t fix any load related issues (actually riding the bike).
 

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Firstacent. Microtec sell a self tuner that you can plug in to the bike that will tune in real time. The bike should be pretty close with the program for the 1098 provided with the Microtec. It’s pricey but you may have no other choice.
 

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Understand that balance of the throttle bodies only makes the bike idle smother and doesn’t effect the tune or running of the bike once the clutch is released. It won’t fix any load related issues (actually riding the bike).
Well if the balance is off enough it will be noticeable above idle too, if its off far enough you will be potting around mostly on one cylinder and then a sudden jump occurs when the other blade opens up.
Also the 848-1X98 throttle bodies have one stop for each blade that they rest on while throttle is disengaged, so to synchronize correctly the blades have to be lifted off those stops to prevent scewing the result.

Edit: Do not touch the physical stops, it will mess your day up. Rather when its synchronized off the stops theres no need to anymore, as the rear blade will be managed via the linkage from the front blade.
Also check that all screws at the mechanism used for synchronizing is tight, had one 1198 where it had come apart. This customer asked me to map it as it wasnt running right when the simple reason was this.
So I always interview the customers prior to a map job to find out why they want me to do the job, and I always do a basic setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Its doable without a nipple, but the nipple makes it easier.
Push the liquid from the slave up with a big syringe (vets often have the proper ones), then open the banjo bolt ever so slightly with a rag around it while at the same time applying gentle pressure on the lever.
(Incase the banjo bolt isnt the highest point, you may need to relocate the pump to make that happen)
Ah thanks! I didn't use a syringe before but I can see how that would help. To make things easier I just went ahead and ordered a titanium banjo with nipple so I didn't have to worry about doing anything fancy for a simple bleed, haha. Banjo arrived yesterday so I'll do a good re-bleed later this week. Went ahead and ordered new clear hose as well for all the reservoirs since that's cheap.

HI mate! Love your project a lot, as I have a 1098 as well. I do have some questions if you could help? Fist is I would love to know where you connect the hoses on the throttle bodies to sync them? I want to do a sync but I’m stumped and do I need extra screws or adapters? Second is I see you have have a full system with race ecu, I just bought a 70mm full termi and dp race ecu with hi flow air filter fitted it to the bike and runs worse than the oem exhaust with Akra slip ons. I’m wondering if you have this issue? Folks are telling me to re fit the oem with slip ons and sell all the gear I just fitted, what do you think?
Thank you! Did @xracer's reply make sense about how to hook it up? I can take some pics later this week if you're still confused how to hook it up. It's super easy to set up and adjust but yeah as xracer mentioned it will only affect idle. As for your issue with the new ecu and the termi's they are supplied with a base map for the full termi but all bikes are different (even the same model) and need a custom map for best performance. With your previous setup with just a slip-on, the slip-ons have less of an effect on performance which is why a new map isn't needed. I'm not as familiar with the dp race ecu's but step one would be to first verify you do have the correct map installed and it's the one for the full system.

Firstacent. Microtec sell a self tuner that you can plug in to the bike that will tune in real time. The bike should be pretty close with the program for the 1098 provided with the Microtec. It’s pricey but you may have no other choice.
Sweet! I didn't know that. Now that I'm back in Portland I have a local shop that does race tuning on a dyno all the time and has worked with Microtec as well. The owner was out last week so I need to stop by again later this week to discuss options/pricing etc. However, I'll still look into the Microtec tuner as well so I can compare all options/pricing etc.
 

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I would love to see some pics of the setup! I had a look today at the throttle body and I see a brass screw and one hose, so I’m assuming that’s the hose I pull and connect my hose for syncing.
 

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Look on the manifold/cylinder head (right hand side) and you will a Alan head screw (4mm). This is the port that you inserted a threaded tube which in turn you attach rubber hose to the balance gauges. Understand that balance of the throttle bodies only makes the bike idle smother and doesn’t effect the tune or running of the bike once the clutch is released. It won’t fix any load related issues (actually riding the bike).
Did the 1098 not come with the threaded tubes pre-installed? My 1198 has them already

 
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