[twerth]

When I bought my bike, I got the PO's service records from the local dealer so I know when the last oil change was. Problem is it doesn't say whether the oil screen was cleaned. So, when I did an oil change today I wanted to clean the screen as well, but couldn't get the screen plug out. I cranked as hard as I felt was safe without rounding the allen head out. Is this typical? Am I safe to lean on it as hard as necessary? Is an impact wrench a better idea?

I also noticed there was a smaller allen head plug/bolt under the screen plug. The service manual doesn't mention this one, but it looks like another drain, but it could be a lock bolt? It's stuck too so I couldn't take it out to check. Anyone know what this one is?

Thanks.

 

[Stick]

Screen bolt should come out. Maybe smack the wrench while applying torque. Or go ahead and use an impact. Bolt underneath has nothing to do with the screen bolt.

It is, however, a plugged hole...needed when the casting was drilled/ported to allow for an oil port/galley.

 

[Derek]

The first time I undid the oil screen on my bike it was helluva tight. The toolkit plug spanner has a 14mm hex on the opposite end. I fitted this into the oil screen with a big socket on the outside of the plug spanner end and used a long breaker bar. I also thought it might damage something but it let go with a crack and spun off no problem. I think the recommended torque of 43 Nm is a bit high for the application, it just has to be tight enough to stay put.

 

[twerth]

Thanks for the input, fellas. I'll give it another shot. Just didn't want to screw something up.

 

[Keith]

I fabbed my own tool using the hex end of a grade 5 bolt (fits in a 9/16" socket) then brazed a nut on the threaded end. I put a large socket wrench on this and actually bent the bolt. I never did get the oil screen off as I did not want to wrench any harder than that.
As I write this I have another tool idea: Just find a coupler nut in the same size. Then you could use a regular 9/16" socket. I will try that w/ an impact wrench next time.

good luck.

 

[j_slyter]

Yeah, that bolt is tight, be careful when you break it loose. I used my 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a short extension and when that bolt broke loose with my weight on it, I bumped my head on the fuel tank. Gave me a little cut right in my eyebrow that bled like crazy for a few minutes. I've literally got blood, sweat and tears in that bike.

 

[MTScott2]

Good Info, I'll be checking my screen next oil change now I'll be prepared. I got a 3/4" breakerbar and a 1/2" adapter.Now all I need is the first aid kit I've got a 2" scar on my wrist which took 3 stitches to close....but I did save $40.oo doing my own exhaust on my old 68 Ford pick up!! I guess that is part of the fun of it all Wish me luck...

 

[stryder]

Thanks for the input, fellas. I'll give it another shot. Just didn't want to screw something up.

Make sure the hex key is seated all the way. Tap it in gently with a rubber mallet to be sure it's fully seated before applying force.

 

[tonered]

Did that working on the bottom bracket of my old mountain bike. When whatever bolt it was finally broke free, my head came crashing down on some un-occupied bottle cage mounts.

It was neat to finally see the hole in my head. The funny part was that the doc wouldn't stitch it up. He said it would make for a much worse scar. Funny enough, I can't really tell where it was, but I sure can find the scar from the hatch. Much longer story from a much younger age.

Have a good one.

 

[860GT]

Harbor Freight (and Desmo Times) sells an Allen tip socket that fits. It comes in a set. The one that fits is half inch drive. Use that, along with a half inch drive ratchet or breaker bar. Pop the ratchet (or breaker bar) handle with a 32 ounce dead blow hammer. It'll come loose. The secret to getting tight bolts loose is to give them a quick jerk. Slowly increasing the torque often doesn't get it.
I like my dead blow hammer, and use it frequently.