[lavaspit]

Im noticing that my 06 tends to stall out very easily when I start it up cold. I have to rev it slightly to keep the RPM from dropping, and then stalling completely. After a bit the RPMs are stable around 1000 idle. Is this normal?

Also when letting the clutch out in first, if I am too gradual or too gentle there is a "groaning" sound, like metal on metal friction, somewhere in the bike I cant locate. I haven't remembered to test whether this sound goes away after the bike is running hotter. I seem to hear it less when I am a bit more aggressive.

Any advice?

Thanks

 

[garcia]

Hi
How long are you letting it idle before take off?
there's a thread on 'warm up time' that might help you.
Best to let it idle for a few minutes before take off, especially if it's cold. But generally it shouldn't stall at all, especially if you're allowing it to warm up enough.

The 'groaning' sound might be that there's insufficient revs for the gear you're in - hence a lugging/knocking noise. Best to keep the revs up and see if this fixes the groaning problem - too low revs at gear is not good for the engine. Riding aggressively would eliminate this issue as the revs are higher.

good luck!

 

[Cesare57]

Not sure what the problem is, but there definitely is one. While a bit of warmup is good, your bike should idle without stalling even when cold, and even if it eventually stabilizes at 1000 rpm, that's too low. It should be in the 1200-1250 range.

 

[SYMO]

Im noticing that my 06 tends to stall out very easily when I start it up cold. I have to rev it slightly to keep the RPM from dropping, and then stalling completely. After a bit the RPMs are stable around 1000 idle. Is this normal?

Also when letting the clutch out in first, if I am too gradual or too gentle there is a "groaning" sound, like metal on metal friction, somewhere in the bike I cant locate. I haven't remembered to test whether this sound goes away after the bike is running hotter. I seem to hear it less when I am a bit more aggressive.

Any advice?

Thanks

How did you go with that noise? I get it also, 1st gear take off, if i ease out the clutch i get a grinding noise also and seems to always happen on a right hand turn, ie pulling out my driveway 1st thing. I noticed the noise a few times on a ride and its always taking off from standing in 1st gear.

 

[PhilJonez]

Not sure what the problem is, but there definitely is one. While a bit of warmup is good, your bike should idle without stalling even when cold, and even if it eventually stabilizes at 1000 rpm, that's too low. It should be in the 1200-1250 range.

Is there an easy way to adjust the idle? Being fuel injected, I'd assume not, but I've noticed that my bike also is having issues when I first start it up (and this is a new condition over the last 6-8 weeks). Once it's warm, it seems to be fine, but still idles closer to 1000 I think... Always seems close to stalling out when I'm at idle (well not close, but not as strong as it used to be..).

On the plus side, no odd noises or grinding (in gear, out of gear, or shifting...)

Any recommendations?

 

[Rocky Duke]

Im noticing that my 06 tends to stall out very easily when I start it up cold. I have to rev it slightly to keep the RPM from dropping, and then stalling completely. After a bit the RPMs are stable around 1000 idle. Is this normal?

Also when letting the clutch out in first, if I am too gradual or too gentle there is a "groaning" sound, like metal on metal friction, somewhere in the bike I cant locate. I haven't remembered to test whether this sound goes away after the bike is running hotter. I seem to hear it less when I am a bit more aggressive.

Any advice?

Thanks

You don't say what mods are done.
Mine has,
14 / 38 gearing.
Termi's
DP ECU
MWR full air filter. This is the best cheap and quick mod I can recommend if you already have pipes etc. It cleaned up the carburation that much, that I am considering upping the gearing again.

If you haven't had the idle trims set, get this done as mine was very lean when I got it, even with the DP ECU.
I also disconnected that bloody aweful idle control system. To do this, you MUST, and I mean MUST 1st get it up to running temp, and then while it is idling, pull the plug. After that set the idles with the air bleeds, and you have a normal behaving Duke. Mine starts perfectly, hot or cold, and after holding 1500 or so for 10 or 15 seconds, it settles down into a very smooth idle. I set mine at 1100 and it never stalls. And it sounds like an old Duke.

Hope this helps some.

cya

 

[SYMO]

Went for a long ride today and im getting it almost all the time regardless of how easy or hard i take off and when the engine is warmed up or not. I propped the rear wheel up off the ground on a stand to test, and rolled out of 1st gear, no noise. It sounds as if it is coming from the front end of the bike, maybe the forks/wheel. I can feel the vibration through the handle bars. It seems so far that i get the noise on weight transfer on launch but its hard to locate exactly where its coming from. The sound is a creeky grind and stops when the clutch is fully out and im moving, its starting to annoy me now, any clues anyone?

 

[LondonDutch]

All these symptoms seem to clash. Some indicate problems at the front, some at the rear drive train, and some indicate clutch/gearbox issues...

The only way to deal with these things is to methodically eliminate all the obvious possibilities. I'd start at the front with bearings - including headrace bearings, and check for warped discs, rubbing brake pads, uneven tyre wear, etc...

Then at the back I'd start by checking sprockets, sprocket bolts, look for wear on teeth and chain, wheel alignment (adjusters being equal), then after that move on to cltch and gearbox internals - where you may need professional advice.

KTMs suffer front chain clatter on the front sprocket in low speed turns, if the your rpm is too low. It doesn't do anything bad, just makes an ugly noise. Riding aggressively cures it, or gearing down to 14t.

Idle speed is different on fuel injected bikes. On some bikes, like KTMs, it's almost impossible to change without getting deep into the ECU's map - but it sounds like you have some good guidance on this in the previous posts. 1000rpm on a big twin is too slow though.

Good luck dude.