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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is a long winded thread, but I feel you need a little background first before you can understand why I am asking the question about the oil level...

The other day I installed new plugs to see where the bike was running, too lean or too rich.

I installed the plugs put the tank down. This time when I set the TB's, I set them like I was tuning my old Webber side draft, by ear. I also set the trimmer 10 values richer & went for a test ride. Before this new trimmer setting, every once, I would get a pop thru the vert cylinder. It would happen at about 1.5k rpm & only after a stop. During this test ride, the bike felt different, it seemed to pull a little stronger. After a 20 min or so ride, it did not pop. Did I fix the pop? Last time I set the TB's, CO, & trimmer I had all tools out:VDST, Carb Tune & Gastester & I used them all to set up the bike. C02 at the plugs 6.5% everything set by LT's book. Bike ran good, but once or twice during a ride, it popped after a stop.This time when I set the TB's, I set them like I was tuning my old Webber side draft, by ear. I set the air bleeds at about 1000 rpm, like the Ducati manual states.

The next day, I went for about a 45 min ride & read the plugs, pulled the left hort & right vert plugs. It was quick & easy without dropping the battery & lifting the seat. They were both white, like new! It was getting late so I put the Duc to bed & was going to work on it again after work the next day.

Got home tonight & was going to put back on all the fairings. Before I did that, I was going to change the oil. I looked at the oil level, it was way full! How could that be, how can the bike be at max level one day & next more oil is in it? I had the tank propped up for a while the other day, but did not think anything of it. I did replace the old "In & Out" fuel clamps with new ones after the vale service. Did my gas tank leak from the "in & out" gas lines onto the oil breather pass the o-ring into the crankcase? I did notice that the fuel gauge did seem a bit lower than the other day on the test ride. Or did the gas sphon back down the "in" gas line into the TB's when the gas tank was propped up?
Were did this gas go? I did not see any wet spots on the floor, or am I just crazy about my bike?

Any ideas?
 

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Mark, all I can suggest is that when you filled up the oil, the bike may have been slightly off vertical, so when you checked when it was vertical, you discovered that you had put too much oil in.
I suggest this because this has happened to me - since then, I always fill up the oil to something less than the max level. Too much oil is not good. I got a friend to help me tip the bike over and pour some out of the filler hole.

I do hope you dont have petrol getting into your oil....

Mark.
 

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As Mark says if the bike is off the level it will read different in the window.
The oil level will appear lower if the bike has just been run than from when it has sat overnight as the oil drains back down while the bike is static. Were you comparing like with like?
Oil level rising could be fuel draining into the cylinder but although this is possible on a carbed bike, on an injection bike is very unlikely. Even with a leaky injector the pressure in the fuel line would dissipate very quickly and the amount of leakage wouldn't make a noticeable rise in the oil level.
The other reason can be coolant leaking into the engine via a leaking headgasket or the water pump seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As Mark says if the bike is off the level it will read different in the window.
The oil level will appear lower if the bike has just been run than from when it has sat overnight as the oil drains back down while the bike is static. Were you comparing like with like?
Oil level rising could be fuel draining into the cylinder but although this is possible on a carbed bike, on an injection bike is very unlikely. Even with a leaky injector the pressure in the fuel line would dissipate very quickly and the amount of leakage wouldn't make a noticeable rise in the oil level.
The other reason can be coolant leaking into the engine via a leaking headgasket or the water pump seal.
If I had a leaking injector, wouldn't my VDST tell me my injector is bad? Wouldn't I see coolant in the oil?
It appears I have lost some gas, where did it go? By just propping up the gas tank it would not run into the crankcase?
 

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Drain the oil, if there's enough gas in it to show on your fuel gauge you'll know it - there will be way more than 4 quarts, it will smell like fuel and you'll see the tell-tale rainbows you see when fuel mixes in water.
I don't see how propping up the fuel tank and replacing clamps could cause gas to get in the crankcase, just don't see how that's possible.
 

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I believe you should put all ideas of the work you have done on the bike to one side and concentrate on your oil filling procedure.
It is very important to set the oil level slowly , put the bulk in first (so you can see it steady in the sight glass) run the engine for a minute or so (to circulate the oil) - If chanmging the filter do ensure you fill it with new oil before refitting) and then let it stand again. Fill with maybe 100-200 Mls at a time with a gap of 2-3 mins between each addition as this will give time for the oil to drain through. You should then be OK.
I dont believe any of the work you have carried-out would have had any influence on your oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have not changed the oil yet, I was going to after I played with the girl. I noticed last night that the oil level was higher on the sight glass, then it was when I changed the oil about 3k before. I noticed that the oil level was beyond the max line after I played around with her.
 

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When I change the oil in my ST3, I pull the sump plug, toss the filter, drain the oil cooler, maybe pull and clean the mesh screen, then reassemble and re-fill with 3.5 quarts of oil. I also usually fill the filter before I install. All Done.

Save the remaining 1/2 quart for the next oil change. A guy will pull his hair out trying to fill based on the sight glass.
 

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I believe you should put all ideas of the work you have done on the bike to one side and concentrate on your oil filling procedure.
It is very important to set the oil level slowly , put the bulk in first (so you can see it steady in the sight glass) run the engine for a minute or so (to circulate the oil) - If chanmging the filter do ensure you fill it with new oil before refitting) and then let it stand again. Fill with maybe 100-200 Mls at a time with a gap of 2-3 mins between each addition as this will give time for the oil to drain through. You should then be OK.
I dont believe any of the work you have carried-out would have had any influence on your oil level.
+1, try not to over think things.
 

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overfill solution

If you overfill, just clamp a small length of fuel line to a turkey baster (not the one from the kitchen drawer). It will draw out as much as you need to.

It works like a charm.

Bob
 

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If you overfill, just clamp a small length of fuel line to a turkey baster (not the one from the kitchen drawer). It will draw out as much as you need to.

It works like a charm.

Bob
What a wizzard idea Bob, and oddly enough I have spare one of those kicking around.
I'll sort it out and put it in my special Ducati tool box.

Thanks for the heads up.

Mark.
 

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If you overfill, just clamp a small length of fuel line to a turkey baster (not the one from the kitchen drawer). It will draw out as much as you need to.

It works like a charm.

Bob
A little bit of 10/40 on your Turkey roast sounds nice ...yummy LOL !
 

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A little bit of 10/40 on your Turkey roast sounds nice ...yummy LOL !
Kind of depends just how into automotive delights your guests may be. Otherwise you'll be the turkey they send to the garage to eat with the Ducs. (with apologies to our non-American friends for something of an in-joke)

Ron
 

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Very good Ron , very good !
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If I had a leaking injector, wouldn't my VDST tell me my injector is bad? Wouldn't I see coolant in the oil?
It appears I have lost some gas, where did it go? By just propping up the gas tank it would not run into the crankcase?
Ok I am having the same problem again. It apppears like there is water in the oil. Now where should I start? Water pump seal first?
 

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What does the oil look like? is it milky or look like regular oil? if coolant has drained into it there will be no mistake. Head gaskets are usually the cause, not water pump seals - those keep coolant from leaking externally (unless the ST3 engine is really unusual).
 

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What does the oil look like? is it milky or look like regular oil? if coolant has drained into it there will be no mistake. Head gaskets are usually the cause, not water pump seals - those keep coolant from leaking externally (unless the ST3 engine is really unusual).
Agreed but be careful if the oil is old and the engine has stood and run then stood again in cold temperatures as this would cause similar symptoms to appear and it would just be condensation.
If you fear a water leak into the oil then a test drain & refill with cheap (expendable) oil would be a worthwhile test to see if the oil goes white again.
 

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I believe you should put all ideas of the work you have done on the bike to one side and concentrate on your oil filling procedure.
It is very important to set the oil level slowly , put the bulk in first (so you can see it steady in the sight glass) run the engine for a minute or so (to circulate the oil) - If changing the filter do ensure you fill it with new oil before refitting) and then let it stand again. Fill with maybe 100-200 Mls at a time with a gap of 2-3 mins between each addition as this will give time for the oil to drain through. You should then be OK.
I dont believe any of the work you have carried-out would have had any influence on your oil level.
Important addition to the above is to ensure your engine is fully warm before making the final top-off in line with the above procedure.
I dont believe there is any likelihood of fuel draining into the engine on a fuel injected bike (and in addition the tank has a vacumn fuel tap which only allows fuel to run with the engine turning)
Thus you would need faulty injectors and a faulty fuel tap and even then I doubt a serious quanity of fuel could just drain into the engine via the injectors when unpressurised.
 
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