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So...I'll probably get flamed for this...

I used to use Castrol brake fluid then "graduated" to Motul RBF600. I can't tell the difference in performance. I flush the fluid in the clutch and brakes yearly at a minimum. I store my leftover Motul in its container...and use it the next season! :oops: Never experienced brake fade, sponginess, or any other signs of moisture in the system. I don't frequent the track...so the system doesn't experience the punishing heat. If I spent $100 for brake fluid, you bet your rear-end I'll be saving that for a season or two!
 

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So...I'll probably get flamed for this...

I store my leftover Motul in its container...and use it the next season! :oops: Never experienced brake fade, sponginess, or any other signs of moisture in the system. I don't frequent the track...so the system doesn't experience the punishing heat.
Even when the fluid is fully saturated with water you won't experience brake fade if you don't brake hard and often. However, corrosion caused by the water is still an issue.

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Tangentially related: I flushed both brakes and clutch fluid today. Tried a vacuum bleeder but it drew in so much air from around the nipple (not where the tube attached but from the threads) that I finally gave up and just used the brake/clutch levers to push the new fluid through.

Front fluid was clean but had lots of white flaky debris in it. Back fluid was dark and dirty. Clutch fluid was like black death. All clean and clear now. I used Maxima Hi-Temp racing fluid.
 

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In other threads (years ago) I said that there is no need for any high dollar fluid because the most likely problem people have is NOT fluid boiling 'fade' it's a pad material problem. I asked if anyone had ever measured the temp of their calipers. Never have gotten a response.

Now, some years down the road, I understand that some bikes may have less than optimum routing of (rear) brake components and the exhaust system bits. Things may have changed for the worse in that regard. But, unless one has taken temp measurements where they suspect a fluid temp issue, there's still no reason to spend silly money on SRF or any other similar fluid.

Using any of them in the clutch is simply a waste of the stuff.
 

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See, that’s why I can’t have nice things. There is no way in hell I’d pay $70 for brake fluid.

I run ATE DOT 4. It ain’t the cheapest, but it also ain’t $70 a quart.

I just check Amazon, and a liter of Ate Race quality DOT4 is $18.09.

Motul RBF is over twice that at $20 per half liter.

Pretty sure a house brand DOT4 at any major auto parts store will run you around $5 for a 12 oz bottle. Or about $15 a liter.

For what you get for your money, Ate seems to me the best bang for buck product. I’m not a rich guy.

Even if I were, $70 for a quart of DOT4 seems ludicrous. A good way to make sure one never gets rich it would seem to me.
 

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Tangentially related: I flushed both brakes and clutch fluid today. Tried a vacuum bleeder but it drew in so much air from around the nipple (not where the tube attached but from the threads) that I finally gave up and just used the brake/clutch levers to push the new fluid through.

Front fluid was clean but had lots of white flaky debris in it. Back fluid was dark and dirty. Clutch fluid was like black death. All clean and clear now. I used Maxima Hi-Temp racing fluid.
for vacuum systems you need to use a liquid sealant on the bleeder nipple threads... (don't use thread tape!).
 

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In other threads (years ago) I said that there is no need for any high dollar fluid because the most likely problem people have is NOT fluid boiling 'fade' it's a pad material problem.
There's a constellation of issues surrounding brakes and this is a prominent one. For bike ridden regularly, the need for cleaning, bleeding, and pad inspection is a minimum annual chore. As a former used (old) bike buyer, a refresh on calipers and suspension would always bring a beater back up to scratch. Who cares if the motor is 10K away from seizure? Safety and ride ride quality can be better than new in most cases.

The FZ1 and SV650 were very functional after brake jobs, and it was equally obvious as things started to deteriorate with hard use. If you're coming from cars to motos, it's deceptive and gradual. And unlike cars, it can be deadly.
 
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