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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've read of people replacing cables to the starter motor with Powerlet cables but I can't find anything like that on their website. Has anyone done this, and if so, which cables did you replace and how did you order them? Thanks for any help. I'll do a search also to see if that answers my questions. Well, I did a search and there was a link to an old ebay sale of these cables, but they no longer seem available. I guess I'll just have to call them. Update: they seemed to bury them on their website, but I found them. Anyone tried them?
Joe
 

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Well worth the money. Got mine about 12 months ago from Desmo Times. You will be surprised how much faster the starter spins once they are installed.
 

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Be sure to budget for a starter rebuild when you do this also. If it doesn't tneed new brushes now, it will after you spin the terminal on the starter motor trying to change the cable.

Seriously though, you have to be very careful when removing the cable from the starter motor as the terminal has likely corroded over the years, and if it spins you're screwed.



This led to a starter rebuild but on a bike as old as these are getting, that isn't always a bad thing. The brushes on mine were pretty well worn anyway and yuo can check the condition of the rest of it at the same time and address it before it becomes an issue.
 

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I just tried to install a set of the Powerlet cables today before work. Not sure what's going on as I have two cables and the Powerlet set comes with three, and also the longest cable, running from the solenoid to the starter, is 10" too short...

Rick
 

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3 cables are right. One from battery positive to the starter solenoid, one from battery negative to the frame and one from the solenoid to the starter.

I remember thinking one may have been too short too but I think that may have been when I compared the two long cables. My set did all fit though. I don't remember which path the original took but I have routed the long cable from the solenoid across to the left side of the engine and on to the starter.

Came with dielectric grease, didn't rebuild the starter but I don't have any rust either.
 

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I forgot about the ground cable:think: My cable from the solenoid to the starter also went down the left side of the bike. The original cable is just long enough to do so, and it's 10" longer than the longest cable that came with the Powerlet cable set I got...I'll have to recheck and see if I got the right part #...

Rick
 

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cables

Bought the cables on Ebay from his store. Had a 900SL with a 944 kit that turned over REAL slow and had to have a perfect battery to work. I did a voltage drop test with the original cables and there was over a half volt drop in some of them. Cleaned up everything and lubed the cable ends with di-electric grease and installed the new cables. As I remember, there wasn't one for engine to frame on the lower right side, but I had a generic battery ground cable that I used there.
MUCH MUCH BETTER!!!!
Almost no voltage drop and the bike spins faster.
The longest cable cannot be used in the stock routing. I had to make a shortcut under the carbs for it to work.
At around $30 it is hard to beat.
-Armen Amirian
Mo'Sickle Maintenance Instructor
Queens College, NYC
 

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I just put a set of JE 94 mm pistons and cylinders on my '96 SP so I need to upgrade my starter cables. I'm going to make my own cables using welding cable. (very flexible, good current flow). I see the Powerlet set appear to have the battery ground lead, starter to solenoid, and solenoid to positive battery terminal. What does Powerlet do about the funky split feed from the original positive lead for the fuse box and charging circuit feed?

I plan on clipping the fuse box/charging circuit feed and splicing in a 14 gauge red wire and crimping it in the battery connector with the #4 AWG welding cable. The only other alternative I see is to keep the original big clunky connector after unplugging the original solenoid lead and attach both that and the new solenoid lead at the battery terminal. What a weird setup!

Ron L
 

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What does Powerlet do about the funky split feed from the original positive lead for the fuse box and charging circuit feed?


Ron L
I was wondering the same thing?

My cables arrived today, fitted the Negitive side ok, not sure what to do with the Pos side.
 

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...What does Powerlet do about the funky split feed from the original positive lead for the fuse box and charging circuit feed?
Unfortunately, nothing. I've used a connector that clamps around the battery-to-relay positive cable piercing the insulation and making connection for the 14 gauge (I think) wire to the main fuse. I found it at an electrical supply house. It has to be the precise size for the cables and wire used.
 

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cables . . .

Eliminate the two-into-one connector. Splice the same gauge wire onto the smaller wire and go to B+. Use #4 cable from B+ to solenoid, solenoid to starter, and then, from B- to a starter mounting bolt. Buy battery cable from auto-zoo and make your own. #4 wire is nearly 5/16" in diameter, not including the insulation. Soldering lugs on is better than crimping, big crimpers are hard to find and use properly.

Fred
 

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Kiwi,
Yep, that's it!

Fred,
That's what I originally thought to do, but on looking at it again, I believe I will cut the connector off the two small red wires and crimp and/or solder a ring lug and attach it at the solenoid connection along with the #4 AWG welding cable that I'll run from the + battery post. That way I won't need to splice the wire to make it reach!

I have the proper lug crimpers. I am used to making battery cables as I have re-built a number of Prestolite starters for Norton Mark 3 Commandos with 4-pole field coils and made up new cables. It makes an actual working starter out of the old "kickstart assist".

Thanks for the help guys!

Ron L
 

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Eliminate the two-into-one connector. Splice the same gauge wire onto the smaller wire and go to B+. Use #4 cable from B+ to solenoid, solenoid to starter, and then, from B- to a starter mounting bolt. Buy battery cable from auto-zoo and make your own. #4 wire is nearly 5/16" in diameter, not including the insulation. Soldering lugs on is better than crimping, big crimpers are hard to find and use properly.

Fred
Cheers, I thought this would be a simple bolt on. I was wrong.
 

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Desmodog
I was changing to Powerlets and discovered the same problem, a rusted out (actually disintegrated!) started terminal that the cable attaches to. Where did you get parts for the rebuild? Hayes manual says that Ducati does not supply the parts. Thanks!
 

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cables . . .

Denso Corp. makes the parts & starter. Contact a rebuild shop that does automotive starter work and order "starter kit" p/n 028099-6931. Get a new rubber boot to protect the stud or cover it with grease.

Fred
 

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Just received Powerlet cables

The only other alternative I see is to keep the original big clunky connector after unplugging the original solenoid lead and attach both that and the new solenoid lead at the battery terminal. What a weird setup!

Ron L
Read all the advice on this thread, to recap, the batt neg to earth cable and starter to solenoid cable are both fine. But best (simplest) way to fit batt pos to solenoid cable?

1. As Ron L says above. Or

2. Cut the cable, trim the outer insulation and press fit into both sides of the junction box (Haven't checked this yet, maybe the junc box sockets will be too small for the new thicker cables) If so......

3. Source another junction box with bigger sockets.

Had a reply from Powerlet suggesting I 'trim the box slightly' which wasn't as helpful as I hoped.

Any advice appreciated.

Jules
 

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I just put a set of JE 94 mm pistons and cylinders on my '96 SP so I need to upgrade my starter cables. I'm going to make my own cables using welding cable. (very flexible, good current flow). I see the Powerlet set appear to have the battery ground lead, starter to solenoid, and solenoid to positive battery terminal. What does Powerlet do about the funky split feed from the original positive lead for the fuse box and charging circuit feed?

I plan on clipping the fuse box/charging circuit feed and splicing in a 14 gauge red wire and crimping it in the battery connector with the #4 AWG welding cable. The only other alternative I see is to keep the original big clunky connector after unplugging the original solenoid lead and attach both that and the new solenoid lead at the battery terminal. What a weird setup!

Ron L
I think you have it correct, that is what you are supposed to do, but it sure doesn't clean up your wiring. I think it is meant to be the least confusing cure to send more juice to the starter without getting the electric impaired in too deep.
 
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