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Discussion Starter #2
Will the map work for the slipons that I have.. And which PowerCommander do you have the? The New USB or Older Serial Port version? I will take it if the map is set for what I will have. Filter and Slipon Arrow CF Pipes..
 

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Pciii

Try Fast by Ferracci, they have pre-mapped PC III's for most Ducatis.
At least they had one for an 05 ST3 anyway.

Don
 

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yeah! fast by ferraci. I have a pc III from them. it is on my 02' st4s with open air box and arrow pipes. My bike runs absolutely great!!!
 

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On my 05 ST4s I went with the K&N filter, open top airbox and beautiful Arrow CF cans...
Had my dealer adjust all the fuel settings on the dyno...no Power Commander...
The bike now runs perfectly at all RPM's...sounds awesome too and puts out
110 RWHP.

Power Commanders are a great mod and I installed one on my RC51, but if you have a shop that knows what they're doing the dyno tuning will cost less than a PC and you get the HP/torque printout to show your friends!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Open Airbox??

What is this ?? Is it a mod to the Airbox? I thought that you just put the filter into the Airbox and close it back up. Do you do something to the Airbox? Any pics would be a great help..

Thanks for all the advice.. I have called Richmond Ducati "MotoEuropa" and they are waiting for me to bring down my ST4s for the PC and Airfilter. So We will see what it puts out...
 

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Open Air Box

Ducati has one available with a DP kit or singely, or modify your own by cutting the top completely off.
Check the ducati web site for accessories and you should find a pic of it.
 

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WaltST4s said:
On my 05 ST4s I went with the K&N filter, open top airbox and beautiful Arrow CF cans...
Had my dealer adjust all the fuel settings on the dyno...no Power Commander...
The bike now runs perfectly at all RPM's...sounds awesome too and puts out
110 RWHP.

Power Commanders are a great mod and I installed one on my RC51, but if you have a shop that knows what they're doing the dyno tuning will cost less than a PC and you get the HP/torque printout to show your friends!
Since this post is 2 months old I dont know if yo'll see this BUT Im confused HOW did your shop Dyno tune it without a power commander. Something has to modify the air/fuel mix. Its done through the ECU correct? I thought you either have to replace the ECU or use a piggyback system like a PC

Im having this done on Thursday so Im very curious would love to save the $330
 

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Dean,
I don't know the answer to your questioin. Maybe someone here with more knowledge than I can respond.

When I specifically asked my dealer if a new chip was needed, he said no and went to work on the bike up on the dyno. He probably did about five or six runs up and down through the gears while adjusting things. The end result is more horsepower and smoother throttle response. Wish I could tell you more.
 

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I don't know how they did it either. It has been my understanding that the stock ECU had a little bit of adjustment but not enough to compensate for the flow of an open airbox and pipes. As mentioned above I ended up with a PCIII on my 02 ST4S with open AB, K&N filter and CF Arrow pipes.
 

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I am looking at adding ferracci pipes a k&n and the open airbox to my 03 ST4S. My local dealer (Beaudry Motor Sports, Post Falls ID) also told me for a hours worth of labor they could adjust everything on the dyno without the need for any other parts. The bike is still under warranty so im going to believe what they say to be true. (Hopefully)
 

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I must revise my last statement. I again talked to the local dealership, which has a new service manager, and was told now that there isnt enough adjustment to do all of the changes. A pcIII was recommended.
 

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Bought PCIII USB from FBF, installed a k&n filter, cut some nice big holes in the air box and my '04 St4s has never run better.
 

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dbd said:
Bought PCIII USB from FBF, installed a k&n filter, cut some nice big holes in the air box and my '04 St4s has never run better.
good for you Dave!!! Makes a noticable difference huh? now we just have to go practice so we can use all(I'll even settle for most) of that power!:)
 

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Cans airboxes & chips

The bike shop can tune the 2003 st4s with the standard ecu by adjusting the air bleed to richen the mixture. The dyno data seems to show that the improvement is marginal at best. For the whole story look here, dyno charts etc.

www.moto-one.com.au/performance/st4fim.html

Also interesting to note that they advise against running the stock 996 engine with an open air box but without replacing the ecu. They think it makes the engine run 2 lean. Planning to do airbox and ecu on my 03 4s at the same time when i get the cash.
 

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What is involved in installing a PCIII? Is it something a dealer must do or is it basically plug and play? I think I'm going to install/have one installed on my ST4s (Remus slip-ons, open air box).
 

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kentamcolin said:
What is involved in installing a PCIII? Is it something a dealer must do or is it basically plug and play? I think I'm going to install/have one installed on my ST4s (Remus slip-ons, open air box).
Yeah they have instructions on their site and it looks do-able. Need to plug it in in line with the standard ECU. U will find intsructions in PDF form there.

http://www.powercommander.com/suppinstal.shtml

The ST4s is not listed but use the pdf for the s4s monster its the same motor. I was thinking about doing this but I think I'll wait and buy a FIM replacement ecu in stead.
 

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I put a PC3usb on my '03 ST4S 18 months ago, custom installed via the Tuning Link software on a dyno and it was well worth having. What got me looking here is it died recently and I was wondering if this was a common experience, but it seems my failure was just a one off.

The kit to use is number 710-411, it is for an 01-03 S4 monster and just plugs right in to the ST4S wiring harness.

Just reading some of the other comments here I would suggest only cutting the back half of the air box out, it makes all the difference needed and the bike is less vulnerable to water ingress if it is out in the rain at slow speeds / parked.

I would also go for a PC3 over an FIM ecu for an ST. Unless something has changed recently I doubt the FIM product is mature enough for the practicalities of running an ST - might be different on a race track but I don't want to ditch the immobiliser and other frills - I am also deeply suspicious of a process which is essentially reverse engineering a complex product. Different if it was a collaborative after market product but it isn't, nor is it apparently transparent software easily copied and modified to suit our much more realistic ambitions for how our bikes should perform.

The PC3 is not about getting extra HP, the slipons and air filter make the most difference here (plus those extra 3 teeth on the back!). With the PC3 mine went from 119 to 120.4HP, stock was probably about 112 but I never got a number on that. What the PC3 does when tuned on properly is to make the mid range (where we ride most of the time) much smoother and it comes on earlier. So you can pull out of corners quickly in third, instead of needing to use second per a standard set-up - and getting those surprising rear wheel sideways lock-ups going in a bit hot every now and then!

Whilst there are lots of maps around what you really want is a constant air fuel ratio to get maximum performance with the best engine life from spending more time in the optimal range. For the relatively small cost to get the PC3 dyno'd on properly I don't know why anyone would mess about with somebody else's guess.

I need to get to the bottom of why mine failed, but as soon as I do its going back on!
 

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VinceS said:
........I need to get to the bottom of why mine failed, but as soon as I do its going back on!
What were the symptoms of your pc3 failing? running bad, bike quit running?
 

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I have now found out that what really happened is the brand new Yuasa battery I had fitted 2 hours before had severed itself internally - ie basically disconnected itself, and the corresponding voltage spike when it happened has fritzed the power commander and generated a bunch of ecu errors that the dealer told me needed to be reset via the Mathesis diagnostic computer.

I was actually on my way to Ducati Turismo with others when I had the flat battery experience. It turned out to be due to a hot connection in the regulator output plug. I fitted a new battery plus a second hand regulator that tested just fine on the bike while I got a replacement new item sorted. It was not clear if my original regulator was cactus or not but I am really interested in reliability issues so I was going to ditch it regardless. So I was about 4 hours behind the pack I was travelling with and in catch-up mode (where practical). About 200km later I had backed off entering a corner, thought I heard the engine note change entering the corner, accelerated again but nothing ever happened. Dead as a dodo. Surprisingly the battery had gone flat again, little did I know it had disintegrated internally.

I piggy backed the old battery (now recharged) on by the road side to get me to somewhere else that I could buy a car battery to get me to Turismo where the Ducati mechanics could sort it. But it wouldn't start still (because the PC3 was out to lunch and the ecu had been rearranged in special ways you might only understand if you have been hit by a mag lev train)

On testing a voltmeter shows 12V on the new battery, what's this I thought? But then I connected the tiniest bulb I have, being a 12V 1W dash light panel bulb and it can't light it and the volts drop to 0V. The plates must have snapped off the terminal post internally and the fact that I get any reading at all is because the broken end of the lug is sticking in the electrolyte a bit. One shagged battery that enjoyed approx 200km of those great vibrations and then took the kapluntzky option!!!!!!!

When the battery spat the dummy the engine would have been spinning at least 6,000 RPM which would have made quite a decent voltage spike. So now I will certainly be talking to Yuasa about a consequential damages claim!
 
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