PowerCommander ST4s/K&N AirFilter?

Open Air Box

Ducati has one available with a DP kit or singely, or modify your own by cutting the top completely off.
Check the ducati web site for accessories and you should find a pic of it.

I put a PC3usb on my '03 ST4S 18 months ago, custom installed via the Tuning Link software on a dyno and it was well worth having. What got me looking here is it died recently and I was wondering if this was a common experience, but it seems my failure was just a one off.

The kit to use is number 710-411, it is for an 01-03 S4 monster and just plugs right in to the ST4S wiring harness.

Just reading some of the other comments here I would suggest only cutting the back half of the air box out, it makes all the difference needed and the bike is less vulnerable to water ingress if it is out in the rain at slow speeds / parked.

I would also go for a PC3 over an FIM ecu for an ST. Unless something has changed recently I doubt the FIM product is mature enough for the practicalities of running an ST - might be different on a race track but I don't want to ditch the immobiliser and other frills - I am also deeply suspicious of a process which is essentially reverse engineering a complex product. Different if it was a collaborative after market product but it isn't, nor is it apparently transparent software easily copied and modified to suit our much more realistic ambitions for how our bikes should perform.

The PC3 is not about getting extra HP, the slipons and air filter make the most difference here (plus those extra 3 teeth on the back!). With the PC3 mine went from 119 to 120.4HP, stock was probably about 112 but I never got a number on that. What the PC3 does when tuned on properly is to make the mid range (where we ride most of the time) much smoother and it comes on earlier. So you can pull out of corners quickly in third, instead of needing to use second per a standard set-up - and getting those surprising rear wheel sideways lock-ups going in a bit hot every now and then!

Whilst there are lots of maps around what you really want is a constant air fuel ratio to get maximum performance with the best engine life from spending more time in the optimal range. For the relatively small cost to get the PC3 dyno'd on properly I don't know why anyone would mess about with somebody else's guess.

I need to get to the bottom of why mine failed, but as soon as I do its going back on!

I have now found out that what really happened is the brand new Yuasa battery I had fitted 2 hours before had severed itself internally - ie basically disconnected itself, and the corresponding voltage spike when it happened has fritzed the power commander and generated a bunch of ecu errors that the dealer told me needed to be reset via the Mathesis diagnostic computer.

I was actually on my way to Ducati Turismo with others when I had the flat battery experience. It turned out to be due to a hot connection in the regulator output plug. I fitted a new battery plus a second hand regulator that tested just fine on the bike while I got a replacement new item sorted. It was not clear if my original regulator was cactus or not but I am really interested in reliability issues so I was going to ditch it regardless. So I was about 4 hours behind the pack I was travelling with and in catch-up mode (where practical). About 200km later I had backed off entering a corner, thought I heard the engine note change entering the corner, accelerated again but nothing ever happened. Dead as a dodo. Surprisingly the battery had gone flat again, little did I know it had disintegrated internally.

I piggy backed the old battery (now recharged) on by the road side to get me to somewhere else that I could buy a car battery to get me to Turismo where the Ducati mechanics could sort it. But it wouldn't start still (because the PC3 was out to lunch and the ecu had been rearranged in special ways you might only understand if you have been hit by a mag lev train)

On testing a voltmeter shows 12V on the new battery, what's this I thought? But then I connected the tiniest bulb I have, being a 12V 1W dash light panel bulb and it can't light it and the volts drop to 0V. The plates must have snapped off the terminal post internally and the fact that I get any reading at all is because the broken end of the lug is sticking in the electrolyte a bit. One shagged battery that enjoyed approx 200km of those great vibrations and then took the kapluntzky option!!!!!!!

When the battery spat the dummy the engine would have been spinning at least 6,000 RPM which would have made quite a decent voltage spike. So now I will certainly be talking to Yuasa about a consequential damages claim!