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Folks,

Need some help from the experts.

I currently have a 2005 999S which I love and absolutely do not want to get rid of. The bike is 90% street, 10% track.

It has the half Termignoni with the matching chip installed (bought it like that, never fiddled with it myself). It dynoes at 129 RWHP.

What can I do to increase reliable HP ?

- The full system only makes a difference at the track from what I understand ?
- What about Power Commanders ? I read the other thread with interest. Does it just smoothen out things below ? Also - is the ECU an 'open' system ? My Agusta has a closed ECU, i.e. I would have to buy a 'race' ECU to even be able to plug in a PC.
- Any other options ?

Thanks !


Yves
 

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Most of the power is hiding in the cylinder head I think. Dismantle these and send them off to a tuner of your choice.
 

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I have an 03' 999 and replaced my Termignoni slip on kit (ECU, echaust, filters) w/ a Termignoni titanium 54mm full exhaust kit. Aside from the huge difference in weight, the kit really made my 999 perform so much better. I also had a PCIII mapped for the slip on and haven't changed that after installing the full exhaust. But it was like night and day w/ the full system, money well spent. I would imagine that your 05' w/ improve cams, flow, etc would greatly benefit from a Termignoni 57mm or LeoVince full exhaust. I would go for the Termi because the ECU is a big part of making these bikes perform better. Exahsut is a good start, also have you tried a 40 tooth rear sprocket? That will really give your 999 some pep! The best $60 mod you can make.
 

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I have an 03' 999 and replaced my Termignoni slip on kit (ECU, echaust, filters) w/ a Termignoni titanium 54mm full exhaust kit. Aside from the huge difference in weight, the kit really made my 999 perform so much better. I also had a PCIII mapped for the slip on and haven't changed that after installing the full exhaust. But it was like night and day w/ the full system, money well spent. I would imagine that your 05' w/ improve cams, flow, etc would greatly benefit from a Termignoni 57mm or LeoVince full exhaust. I would go for the Termi because the ECU is a big part of making these bikes perform better. Exahsut is a good start, also have you tried a 40 tooth rear sprocket? That will really give your 999 some pep! The best $60 mod you can make.
wouldnt you need to remap the PCIII for the full termi??
Does the 40tooth sprocket change top speed??
 

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"wouldn't you need to remap the PCIII for the full termi??"

Absolutely, if you expect the gains you are looking for. My suggestions is to do a separate map per cylinder in order to get the gains you want. Not mention, you will notice a smoother throttle response. If you want to upgrade to the full system, do not hold back when it comes to the tuning aspect. The heads are very good(though they could stand for a better transition), and I would say get the cams timed and dyno tune with individual cylinder maps when you go to the full system.

Two things here, the full system will work better with the high lift/short duration cams that are in the bike and will allow the bike to scavenge the exhaust gases better with the large pulses. This will allow for more power across the entire rev range, not just at the top. The second thing is the heat factor, without the cats in, you save your balls. More so, with proper cam timing and cylinder maps, the throttle will feel more accurate, giving more confidence at every throttle twist. These things will benefit both on the track(10%) and the street(90%).

"Does the 40tooth sprocket change top speed?"

Yes and no. It depends on several things. One: Rev limiter. Has it been pushed up from stock. If so, you have the ability to run the gearing at a higher rpm, giving you a similar top speed as before, with the benefits of better acceleration.

Two: power output. Do you have the power to reach said rev limits, pushing past the boundaries of aero dynamics. Since you plan to add the full system and tune properly(hint), your increase in power should aid in maintaining the speed levels.

Three: Tires effect overall gearing. This is probably the only way you can afford to control the question of top speed. The 40T rear sprocket is approximately 8% larger than stock and will reduce your overall ration as such. This will affect your speed(lower) and acceleration(quicker). But if you go to a taller diameter tire, you won't see such a deviation. If you gear lower and go to a shorter tire, you may end up causing more issues than solving.

Power and gearing only aid in achieving certain speeds, whereas aero dynamics play a much larger role beyond a certain speed. I am no expert in this field(nor any other for sure), and really cannot step my way in or out of a debate in A/D.

Let's look at one other factor you've missed. Proper chassis. Since you plan to go to a larger rear sprocket, make sure you get a larger chain to accommodate the sprocket, other wise you will have to bring in the rear wheel to a dangerous level, especially since you will be adding more HP(approx 10hp). You want that rear wheel farther back in the swingarm as possible. Try to get it in the 500-510mm range. This will help out in controlling the power to the wheel. There's more to it, but that's another story.

Sorry I got so winded.
 

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"wouldn't you need to remap the PCIII for the full termi??"

Absolutely, if you expect the gains you are looking for. My suggestions is to do a separate map per cylinder in order to get the gains you want. Not mention, you will notice a smoother throttle response. If you want to upgrade to the full system, do not hold back when it comes to the tuning aspect. The heads are very good(though they could stand for a better transition), and I would say get the cams timed and dyno tune with individual cylinder maps when you go to the full system.

Two things here, the full system will work better with the high lift/short duration cams that are in the bike and will allow the bike to scavenge the exhaust gases better with the large pulses. This will allow for more power across the entire rev range, not just at the top. The second thing is the heat factor, without the cats in, you save your balls. More so, with proper cam timing and cylinder maps, the throttle will feel more accurate, giving more confidence at every throttle twist. These things will benefit both on the track(10%) and the street(90%).

"Does the 40tooth sprocket change top speed?"

Yes and no. It depends on several things. One: Rev limiter. Has it been pushed up from stock. If so, you have the ability to run the gearing at a higher rpm, giving you a similar top speed as before, with the benefits of better acceleration.

Two: power output. Do you have the power to reach said rev limits, pushing past the boundaries of aero dynamics. Since you plan to add the full system and tune properly(hint), your increase in power should aid in maintaining the speed levels.

Three: Tires effect overall gearing. This is probably the only way you can afford to control the question of top speed. The 40T rear sprocket is approximately 8% larger than stock and will reduce your overall ration as such. This will affect your speed(lower) and acceleration(quicker). But if you go to a taller diameter tire, you won't see such a deviation. If you gear lower and go to a shorter tire, you may end up causing more issues than solving.

Power and gearing only aid in achieving certain speeds, whereas aero dynamics play a much larger role beyond a certain speed. I am no expert in this field(nor any other for sure), and really cannot step my way in or out of a debate in A/D.

Let's look at one other factor you've missed. Proper chassis. Since you plan to go to a larger rear sprocket, make sure you get a larger chain to accommodate the sprocket, other wise you will have to bring in the rear wheel to a dangerous level, especially since you will be adding more HP(approx 10hp). You want that rear wheel farther back in the swingarm as possible. Try to get it in the 500-510mm range. This will help out in controlling the power to the wheel. There's more to it, but that's another story.

Sorry I got so winded.
WOW, great stuff 1fast!!!. When I installed the full system, I was told to try the bike w/ the existing slip on PCIII settings. First, I installed the full system w/o the dedicated Ducati Performance ECU. Then I installed the ECU, the bike performed much better, huge difference! Since then just had the TPS " zeroed" out. It really runs fantastic, should have it remapped though. The heads, all inclusive, are weak on my 2003 999 compared to the 2005+ 999 heads. I had the bike dynoed at 130/78 w/ the slip on Termi, it's dedicated ECU and PCIII custom mapping, never had retuned/dynoed w/ the new system yet-it just flat runs better, no doubt and my stalling issue has disappeared too!
I have 15/41T sprocket combo w/ a longer chain. My 999 definitely gets to 120mph very quickly!, not like a GSXR or CBR....but quick enough to be loads of fun! I also have custom sprung Ohlins all around too.
Funny, I found when I installed a 42T rear sprocket, I had to move the axle all the way forward to fit the chain. The bike handled sooo much better!!! it cornered razor sharp, "like it was on rails":D But it barely reached the first alignment slash, so I put the 41T back on. I have a DP 2005+ kit swing arm going on soon! See if it changes the handling over the sand casted old swinger?
 

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Maybe

I am betting from all I have read " on this site that is " that minus a pony or two with a full system you are more than likely at your limit...that is before having to open the motor up and doing internal work like someone already suggested. 129 at the wheel is pretty good...
 

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Many thanks Brian C. for the info,
I have an'03 999, just got it early this year, the previous owner (god bless him :)) had fully loaded the bike and not done many miles, the bike has the full termi system+ECU+filters, alot of carbon, alot of DP titanium etc etc, all I done since I purchased the bike, was a major service, clearlaternatives signals and red Samco hoses.
I was thinking of goin into the engine etc, but I think I will just save up for an 1198 :)
 

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Many thanks Brian C. for the info,
I have an'03 999, just got it early this year, the previous owner (god bless him :)) had fully loaded the bike and not done many miles, the bike has the full termi system+ECU+filters, alot of carbon, alot of DP titanium etc etc, all I done since I purchased the bike, was a major service, clearlaternatives signals and red Samco hoses.
I was thinking of goin into the engine etc, but I think I will just save up for an 1198 :)
They are great bikes. The right choice for the '03 999 is ride the piss out of it and do nothing to the motor. The basis of this motor is not what you want for big HP numbers. Save for the 1198 and be happy with it as it's a great bike in it's form.

My '03 999 has a full Termi system, which I had the cams timed to 108/107, and we will be doing the dyno tuning next Saturday. We estimate about 130RWHP, which is more than enough. I want to focus on the bike's strengths by adjusting the chassis properly. The bike has the best platform for a kick ass chassis. That is how you pass people in the twisties, not big HP motors.
 

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How do you go about getting the chassis dialed in properly? I going to have to look into this because i think my 2004 999S needs to be dialed in specifically for me.

Thanks for any tips.
 

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Where did the cam timing change, move your power band, max torque. Have you done a pre dyno test run. Will be interesting to see. Hurry up and get her done. :)
 
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