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Discussion Starter #1
Now that I have done some changes to my bike ( dp slip-ons, open airbox, dp ECU) do I need to install a power commander to set the bike up properly? The mechanic out here tells me that is the only way to properly re-map the bike.
 

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I have an open airbox and FBF exhaust.

Find a show who can dyno tune your bike. Might cost the same as the add on box, but no add on.
I believe this works mutch better.

My $0.02
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have an open airbox and FBF exhaust.

Find a show who can dyno tune your bike. Might cost the same as the add on box, but no add on.
I believe this works mutch better.

My $0.02
He claims that he can't properly dyno the bike without installing a power commander.
 

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He claims that he can't properly dyno the bike without installing a power commander.
He can dyno the bike and give you a curve and possibly an AF trace too, but he wouldn’t be able to remap your ECU without the software to do it. Thing is, why do you need him to? With the listed mods, you’re all set! You have the DP ECU. It is mapped specifically for the open air box and pipes. It has an advantage over the add-on power commander in that the ignition map is also tweaked to suit you mods. On the PCs that fit our bikes, all you get is a fuel map. I have the same set up of race ECU, pipes and open box. I think the map is about as good as it gets. The bike runs perfect everywhere. To get it right, all you should need is the basic tune up stuff. TPS set, CO set, sync. You do not need a dyno for that. Your shop is either trying to sell you something you don’t need, or doesn’t understand that the DP ECU is already mapped for your mods. True, if you do more work, like degree the cams to something other than OEM spec, or add a big bore kit or maybe different cams, things like that, the DP ECU will need some help. A custom mapped power commander would do it. Otherwise, if you can’t get it to run like a scalded dog with the mods you have, there is something else wrong and a power commander isn’t going to fix it…
 

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Discussion Starter #5
He can dyno the bike and give you a curve and possibly an AF trace too, but he wouldn’t be able to remap your ECU without the software to do it. Thing is, why do you need him to? With the listed mods, you’re all set! You have the DP ECU. It is mapped specifically for the open air box and pipes. It has an advantage over the add-on power commander in that the ignition map is also tweaked to suit you mods. On the PCs that fit our bikes, all you get is a fuel map. I have the same set up of race ECU, pipes and open box. I think the map is about as good as it gets. The bike runs perfect everywhere. To get it right, all you should need is the basic tune up stuff. TPS set, CO set, sync. You do not need a dyno for that. Your shop is either trying to sell you something you don’t need, or doesn’t understand that the DP ECU is already mapped for your mods. True, if you do more work, like degree the cams to something other than OEM spec, or add a big bore kit or maybe different cams, things like that, the DP ECU will need some help. A custom mapped power commander would do it. Otherwise, if you can’t get it to run like a scalded dog with the mods you have, there is something else wrong and a power commander isn’t going to fix it…
Thanks Dan I will leave it like that. What should the rpm's be when the bike is idling? Right now it is around 1300rpm. Is that about right??
 

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Thanks Dan I will leave it like that. What should the rpm's be when the bike is idling? Right now it is around 1300rpm. Is that about right??
A bit high, should be 1100 - 1200RPM.

Be careful here though. High or low idle RPM might be a symptom of improper base-line set up rather than just a tweak of the idle set screw. That idle set screw is adjusted to a specific throttle angle (2.6 degrees for our bikes) very early in the game then never touched again. You do it right after zeroing the TPS. The final idle speed is a result of adjusting the air bleeds and fuel trim for a balance of proper idle speed and idle CO read at the ports in each header pipe. Getting all of this right has a ridiculous impact of low speed running. It really makes a difference.

BikeBoy.org - Ducati 4V Desmoquattro Non Linear TPS Baseline Adjustment (plus ST3)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A bit high, should be 1100 - 1200RPM.

Be careful here though. High or low idle RPM might be a symptom of improper base-line set up rather than just a tweak of the idle set screw. That idle set screw is adjusted to a specific throttle angle (2.6 degrees for our bikes) very early in the game then never touched again. You do it right after zeroing the TPS. The final idle speed is a result of adjusting the air bleeds and fuel trim for a balance of proper idle speed and idle CO read at the ports in each header pipe. Getting all of this right has a ridiculous impact of low speed running. It really makes a difference.

BikeBoy.org - Ducati 4V Desmoquattro Non Linear TPS Baseline Adjustment (plus ST3)
Just got my bike back from the shop. He was able to help out with setting the idle to where it should be. But he did tell me that the bike is running very lean. Tells me that the only way of properly setting it up I will need to purchase a power commander to properly map the bike.
Would you not think that all set ups have to be some what different as to where you live??????
 

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I would have thought a DP ECU should have sufficient range to deal with location unless you are particularly high up but even then , the standard chip has to deal with it so the DP should also.

Nevertheless , if you decide you need a PC3 , I have one USB PC3 , having reverted to the standard cans and the 05 fueling being much better than the '02 I originally bought it for.

Equivilent of 150 Pounds Sterling + P&P and it is yours.

It is easy to fit at home but you do need to get it properly set-up for your engine as otherwise it is a waste of time. Not trying to sway your decision but at least it will be cheaper if you decide to go this way. You could even refit the standard chip before the dyno run and then resell the DP ?

PM me with your address if you want to go ahead.
 

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There is no way it should be running lean with your mods and the DP ECU. If it is, there is something else wrong. How is he determining that it is lean? Does he have the software needed to adjust the fuel trim feature in the ECU? If he does not, go somewhere else fast. Better yet, get into that Ducati Diagnostic thread Tonered started and do it yourself. You can get a PC3 if you want to, certainly your choice. I maintain that if your shop is using it to compensate for a lean condition, in your case, it is being used as a band-aid to an easy repair or tuning issue for a shop equipped to do the work right.

One other question though… Are you sure you have a DP ECU???
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There is no way it should be running lean with your mods and the DP ECU. If it is, there is something else wrong. How is he determining that it is lean? Does he have the software needed to adjust the fuel trim feature in the ECU? If he does not, go somewhere else fast. Better yet, get into that Ducati Diagnostic thread Tonered started and do it yourself. You can get a PC3 if you want to, certainly your choice. I maintain that if your shop is using it to compensate for a lean condition, in your case, it is being used as a band-aid to an easy repair or tuning issue for a shop equipped to do the work right.

One other question though… Are you sure you have a DP ECU???
That is what I was wondering Dan. I bought from one of the members off this site. Told me it was. Is there some # off it that can tell me it is??
 

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Stock ECU has these numbers.




If it looks like that, you have the stock ECU. There are a few different places that offer a race map. The actual DP item should say Ducati Performance on it somewhere, I'm pretty sure. Others, like my Huston SBK reflashed unit just had a label with part number on it. In any case, if it's something other than stock, it will look different than the pics.
 
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