Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I think I am also going to buy the PCIII. Looking at the install guide of the PCIII for the Hypermotard, they seem to have done a clean job with connectors without cutting any stock wires, however why did they NOT also plug nicely at the TPS connector cleanly instead of that:
9 Locate the stock Throttle Position Sensor. This sensor is located on the left side of the throttle bodies.
10 Cut a 1” slit in the sheathing for the TPS harness. This allows access to the wires.
11 Using the supplied wire tap crimp the ORANGE wire (Fig. G).
12 Connect the GREY wire from the PCIII harness to the wire tap (Fig. G).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
Thats real ghetto to me. I don't know about Cali where you live but here where rain is hard to avoid unless everything is sealed up good your asking for trouble. Before I added one of those, I'd run the bike on a dyno or ride it with a wideband sensor and get an AFR curve, then have the ECU remapped like Brainfry did. Thats a great solutiom IMO, keeps things simple and inherently more reliable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
yeah i don't know why they do that. there must be a reason as its like that with all the bikes i've seen. defiantly get it tuned on a dyno. it will run much better then the generic maps they supply. when i first put one on my gsxr600 i fooled with the maps it gave you untill i found one i like. found out it wasn't adding any power over stock and i had a bunch of mods. took it to the dyno guy and he got 11hp over stock out of it and it ran much much better
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
811 Posts
That wire tap is very cheesy.I wouldn't use one to install a neon licence plate frame on an 86' Hyundai let alone for this application. With a little time and ingenuity, it could be done cleanly(preferably soldered).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No worries about dyno runs to get the perfect maps, we have great local dynojet support with at least John Nichols, Kyle Racing, and Leo Vinci all certifed dynojet dealers and equipped to flash the perfect maps to your PCIII from a set of tune ups and dyno runs.

My real question is indeed about the crappy TPS wire tap. There are many guys here with the PCII installed (Todd, Alex and way more), I would like to see how it was done on their bike.

I also would like to understand why they did not provide an inline connector based Y wiring at the TPS connector (where ever that is), as they did for altering the injector's signal. Perhaps such TPS connector does not exist, perhaps the wire would be too long, perhaps signal loss????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
I've installed PC on Aprilia and Ducati, that is about the only way to tie into the TPS... What would you suggest? Add a whole new wiring harness for each TPS??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I've installed PC on Aprilia and Ducati, that is about the only way to tie into the TPS... What would you suggest? Add a whole new wiring harness for each TPS??
Of course not a new harness:eek:

But I imagine that TPS wire goes to a connector somewhere at which point one could make a Y cable with a female and male versions of that connector to insert inline, and a TPS wire going to the PCIII :think:
But again, I did not check the harness wiring to find out where such connector would be, perhaps it simply does not exist and the TPS wire may go straight from TPS sensor on one side, to the ECU and whatever on the other side:eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
I suspect its all about cost. While all the fuel injector connectors I've seen are the same, others like the TPS are not. While its a standard type connector, its not the same on all bikes.

I'd track that connector down, get a couple, and make a "Y" cable.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I suspect its all about cost. While all the fuel injector connectors I've seen are the same, others like the TPS are not. While its a standard type connector, its not the same on all bikes.

I'd track that connector down, get a couple, and make a "Y" cable.
My point exactly.

John, here is a new project for your friend Bernard now that he masters the turn signal connectors;)
I bet most people with PCIII would be * very intersted * not to touch any of the stock wires...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
I agree, the tapping into the TPS wire and sheathing was a disappointing
weakness in an otherwise clean installation for the PCIII. The 3M crimp
taps have proven to be reliable for quite a few years now, but to me
it does seem a little hokey. :( Since the Throttle Position Sensor must
work accurately down at fractions of a volt (for idle throttle plate position),
I'm wondering if the added contact resistance of stacking connectors might
have been a concern, possibly requiring a TPS reset on the bike, or even
adding low level noise on the TPS signal under vibration. Just speculating
here... (but one would think a high quality connector would be OK to insert
in line as was mentioned).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
I agree, the tapping into the TPS wire and sheathing was a disappointing
weakness in an otherwise clean installation for the PCIII. The 3M crimp
taps have proven to be reliable for quite a few years now, but to me
it does seem a little hokey. Since the Throttle Position Sensor must
work accurately down at fractions of a volt (for idle throttle plate position),
I'm wondering if the added contact resistance of stacking connectors might
have been a concern, possibly requiring a TPS reset on the bike, or even
adding low level noise on the TPS signal under vibration. Just speculating
here... (but one would think a high quality connector would be OK to insert
in line as was mentioned).
Contact resistance of sealed high quality connectors is a non-issue. The input impedance of the ECUs ADC (and the PC3s) is orders of magnatude higher, with a very low input signal current. Think of the ECU and PC3 as a digital voltmeter reading the TPS, its nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,757 Posts
"Y" not just do it like they say and ride more and worry less? I have used these taps on plenty of connections and never had a problem. YOU can tape them or use liquid tape if you want some weatherproofing or you can add some dilectric grease too. I have run them on offroad stuff in water with many washing and never had a problem. I just got through putting three of them on my Teryx when I added my temp and voltmeter guages, horn, and license plate light (not a Hyundai, but who would drive one anyway). :eek:

If you really want to have something better, you can get these 3M Scotchlok "button style" connectors that come impregnated with dilectric grease/gel and are typically used in the telecommunications industry where weatherproofing is required.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Telecom/Home/Products/Products/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20O4M7_nid=NZW3RHPDRDbeDP16W8FB2Ngl

or these

http://www.suresealconnections.com/

Splice this.................is that thing hooked up yet? :think:

Out!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
661 Posts
Thank for the Sure Seal information...I've been dying to find connectors like those. Eureka!

The ScotchLoc connectors have certainly come a long ways, but I still find them cheesy. Something I would expect to see on a cut-rate car stereo boom box installation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,652 Posts
Hey Christian. Leo Vince installed mine when the previous owner had the bike. As far as I can tell they installed per the instructions. I agree it's not the cleanest but it hasn't caused any problems either.

PS - I need a large owners club shirt as the XL is too big!!
 

·
Home of vortex tuning
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
I had issues with the 7 wire plug that powers lights, brakes, and battery charge to my house from the tractor. There was a maze of wiring connected with the scotch blocks under the bed that included a 6 pin plug too. I spent a day with solder, tape, and zip ties. No attempt was made to shield from the weather/road splash and quite a few corroded wires from these quickie connections. I thought overhead welding was bad, but overhead soldering, you can't push/direct material with an iron like you can with a torch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,757 Posts
So split the grey wire, double up the PC III wire with one end of the grey eitr, slide a sleeve of heat shrink tubing over that end, solder the ends back together, add a splash of dilectric grease, slide the heat shrink back down covering the connection, shrink it, grab a handful of the Scotchlok buttons and throw them in the street, project done.

Out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,070 Posts
So split the grey wire, double up the PC III wire with one end of the grey eitr, slide a sleeve of heat shrink tubing over that end, solder the ends back together, add a splash of dilectric grease, slide the heat shrink back down covering the connection, shrink it, grab a handful of the Scotchlok buttons and throw them in the street, project done.

Out!
but it's the orange wire, dude :rolleyes:
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top