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Does anyone know what cans those are? There's no markings and I don't know enough about the bike to tell if it's a full system or just cans.
Looks like OEM system. Pipes look quite a bit like the later Ferracci pipes without the rivet holes for the Ferracci badge. Like below, but without the rivet holes and badge:
 

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Great price for a early CR it looks to be mostly there. Not sure on the cans, not termi or giacamoto (duc performance for you youngsters). Ferracci re-badged everyone else's pipes , they are period correct as I do remember them just not a name yet.

Nice you got the showa forks as they can work well with a set of springs and gold valves.
 

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OEM headers and not Yoshimura end cans. I have those and yours look a bit different. They don't look like D&D either.

I fit a Fox shock on my bike from flea-bay. Might have a look there.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Looks like OEM system. Pipes look quite a bit like the later Ferracci pipes without the rivet holes for the Ferracci badge. Like below, but without the rivet holes and badge:
We saw those last nights, but I noticed their riveted bands have relief cuts in them and mine doesn't.

Great price for a early CR it looks to be mostly there. Not sure on the cans, not termi or giacamoto (duc performance for you youngsters). Ferracci re-badged everyone else's pipes , they are period correct as I do remember them just not a name yet.

Nice you got the showa forks as they can work well with a set of springs and gold valves.
Forks will be rebuilt with new springs & gold valves from Racetech once I have some scratch. We will probably end up replacing the rear shock with either an Ohlins or a Nitron, but that will come way after doing the front since it's pricey.

Right now the focus is one carbs, chain & sprockets, a new clutch, tires and the forks. Once those are done the bike should be running and ride-able. My wife is handling the paint and seat, we'll be cleaning up all the wear & tear on the plastics & the frame.

As of last night the tank is disconnected but not removed, belts were checked and seem to be ok, I will check them more thoroughly as the project progresses. The airbox should come out tonight provided my wife gets me some more bins for parts today.
 

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Just incase you missed it, be very careful getting the fuel hose off of the tank shutoff. My hoses were very brittle and I broke the head off it when I tried to remove the hose. Fortunately, I found a NOS one on eBay.
I replaced all the old gas hoses with new stock - bought from my local JD dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Luckily he seems to have had that done just before it was parked. All of the hoses with the exception of the "dreinage" hose looked almost new.

I recommend you get yourself a set of angle picks from Harbor Freight, the black handles not the orange. I slide a pick in and just use it to work around the nipple while gently pulling the hose. Even ancient hoses will pop off easily that way. I have spent more than my fair share of time cussing hoses and this changed my life.
 

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Good thoughts!
I used a heat gun set on the lowest setting to warm the lines up. It was below freezing so not something needed in CA!!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Good thoughts!
I used a heat gun set on the lowest setting to warm the lines up. It was below freezing so not something needed in CA!!
Hey it got cold here once. It was like 30 degrees for 5 minutes!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Ok, so a little progress tonight. I started working on stripping the bike and making sure my storage and organization is in order. I got the tank off and stowed safely. We'll handle old gas removal this weekend. I started working on plastics removal but got a badly corroded well nut on the lower cross brace that was seized. I was able to get the SoB loose without doing any damage to bodywork, but it ate most of my night.

We splurged a little early and I ordered some paint for the tank and plastics. I've got to figure out if I want to strip the frame and have it re-coated or if I just want to touch up any rough spots and let it roll a while longer. We'll try a few tricks and see what it looks like after some minor cleanup. So far I haven't found any cracks, the bike only has 29k and change on it and I promise the guy I got ti from wasn't pulling wheelies.

Enough talk, Pics!



 

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1995 is a bad year for the cracking frames, remove the tank latch and inspect around the welds carefully. If it is not cracked and not a replacement frame already (you can tell under the latch mount) then I would NOT paint/powder the frame at this time unless you get the mounts re-welded. I have never had a frame welded before it broke but I am sure it could be done, bracing would also be a option but is not necessary from what i have seen.

Dont forget to check the cylinder head studs, just see if you can spin any by hand and do NOT try and tighten any. If chrome looking they are strong but brittle, if you take the motor apart plan on changing them all. If they are a blackish color you have the updated studs and they should be fine.

belts were checked and seem to be ok, I will check them more thoroughly as the project progresses.
Break a belt and you lose the motor, not worth the risk since aftermarket belts are cheap. If you know when they were changed last (within 3 years 12000 miles) then that's one thing but if you do not know you are better safe than sorry.
 

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If I may .02 ....on a "new to you" SS...unless 3 year window replacement can be documented...belt replacement should be an automatic, without any hesitation whatsoever
 

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Discussion Starter #32
1995 is a bad year for the cracking frames, remove the tank latch and inspect around the welds carefully. If it is not cracked and not a replacement frame already (you can tell under the latch mount) then I would NOT paint/powder the frame at this time unless you get the mounts re-welded. I have never had a frame welded before it broke but I am sure it could be done, bracing would also be a option but is not necessary from what i have seen.

Dont forget to check the cylinder head studs, just see if you can spin any by hand and do NOT try and tighten any. If chrome looking they are strong but brittle, if you take the motor apart plan on changing them all. If they are a blackish color you have the updated studs and they should be fine.



Break a belt and you lose the motor, not worth the risk since aftermarket belts are cheap. If you know when they were changed last (within 3 years 12000 miles) then that's one thing but if you do not know you are better safe than sorry.


Good to know on the belts. We will just go ahead and do them while we're in there, not worth the risk.

Any recommended threads/guides/kits for stud replacement? I wasn't planning on taking the heads off, can it be done with them on?
 

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Just from the looks of your pictures I would think it safe to say that the previous owner was somewhat less that diligent on maintenance and agree the belts would be the first thing to change as a cheap insurance policy on the longevity of your engine. It's less than a hours work and under $100 cost.
 

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in defense of the PO...it also appears he left everything under the tank present and accounted for.... nothing removed, missing or bastardized. Though dusty and dirty, needing some cleaning, its an intact, known, factory stock starting point for the new owner, at very least.

I'd prefer this scenario over a chopped airbox, visible electrical hacking, alarms, phone chargers, other electrical "mods" or attempts at "improvement" anytime.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
in defense of the PO...it also appears he left everything under the tank present and accounted for.... nothing removed, missing or bastardized. Though dusty and dirty, needing some cleaning, its an intact, known, factory stock starting point for the new owner, at very least.

I'd prefer this scenario over a chopped airbox, visible electrical hacking, alarms, phone chargers, other electrical "mods" or attempts at "improvement" anytime.
This bikes PO is not a mechanically inclined individual. He had it serviced regularly (sometimes by me!) but mostly he just rode it. When the clutch went out he parked it with the intention of having it serviced and life just got in the way. He's not somebody that would spend time researching mods or do any himself. So it's a very clean and unmolested 900SS despite being a little neglected over the last 2 years or so.

The reason he cut me a deal on it was that he didn't want it to just rot away. I can appreciate him letting the bike go when he realized it was beyond his ability to keep running. It shows that he really loved the bike.
 

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Any recommended threads/guides/kits for stud replacement? I wasn't planning on taking the heads off, can it be done with them on?
If you have the engine out it is a good time to change studs, yes the heads and cylinders need to be removed to change them. There are bikes out there with the chrome studs still so it is not 100% they will fail just more like 60% that one or two will and it is almost never the easy to change cylinder (horizontal). If you tear it down that far you will need to decide now or a roll of the dice. It also is not uncommon to have them break when removing them and sometimes they break below the case surface just for fun.

Again if they are NOT chrome but blackish colored then you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
If you have the engine out it is a good time to change studs, yes the heads and cylinders need to be removed to change them. There are bikes out there with the chrome studs still so it is not 100% they will fail just more like 60% that one or two will and it is almost never the easy to change cylinder (horizontal). If you tear it down that far you will need to decide now or a roll of the dice. It also is not uncommon to have them break when removing them and sometimes they break below the case surface just for fun.

Again if they are NOT chrome but blackish colored then you should be good to go.
Perfect, I will check them as I dig deeper into the bike. I think we're probably going to do some shop organization tonight, I've got to many projects and need to thin some out. I'm trying to convince the wife to let me get a new cabinet for my tools. I've run out of space in the 2 chests I currently have and it's making life harder than it has to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Ok, some progress has been made. A lot of that progress has been cleaning. We're not done, but it's starting to look like a workshop again.

I got the plastics off, airbox pulled and finally dug the carbs out.






Once my bench is clear I'll start the tear down on the carbs. In the mean time I decided to refurbish the carbon fiber cans clearcoat. I'll take pictures of the progress as I go. I have also purchased the Haynes manual for the bikes as well.

Some things are in the works to try and accelerate progress on the bike. The wife's given me permission to offload our 2011 CR-Z to pay some other bills. A little bit of cash should make it's way to the 900 though.
 

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Just down inside mine at the same place. Turned out my carbs were badly in need of service. I sent them off to [email protected] in Long Island. Couldn't be more pleased with the results! The pilot jets were completely plugged along with lots of other issues. Mostly likely the result of PO using corn laced fuel. Anyway, $250 and under a week later I have them ready to go back on with new hoses as well. Attached shot shows the clean-up he did.
 

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I prefer ARP studs over the others. They are full diameter all the way down rather than tapered like the other aftermarket studs, or the stock studs. However, I wouldn’t change them until one breaks or until you have to remove a head for some other reason.
 
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