PCIII Without Dyno

Depend on whether you know how to jet a bike. If you can tell the difference between rich and lean you can get it pretty decent, to optimize it a dyno helps, but you may still need to tweak it a little after dynotuning. The big benefit is really to be able to change things quickly. You can download a map, upload it to the PCIII, try it and if it doesnt work you can change back easily or try something different.

I would try and see if they have a map for it on the power commander website. If they do use that for the time being until you get the time to get a custom map done. Every bike is different so the ones on the site are only a good base map you know something you can easily fine tune. There are so many variables to disrupt the maps from the site that its best to get a custom one made.

haven't been impressed by the downloadable maps,plus some may be very lean.basically i'd only richin the map without being able to see the egt.btw i've yet to see a post from anybody who holed a piston from exhaust on a duc,but that doesn't mean anything.

It's the only way you can be absolutely sure your air/fuel mix is optimal throughout the rev range.

I installed a PC III on my 998 and used a map from Dynojet along with recommendations for the Accelerator Pump settings used for a street bike.

Did notice a flat spot in acceleration and modified the Accelerator Pump settings until I have what I believe to be an optimum setting for my machine.

The reason I done this was that the closest dyno shop to me in Perth had a 1 week wait period, not to happy about that so plug and play.
Very easy to save older maps and modify your own.

You can also tell alot from pipe colour and spark plug colour.

Give it a go, can always goto a Dyno if unhappy, but you might just get it running 100% to your liking without having to subject the machine to a Dyno.

that first graph shows 100 hp at under 4000 rpm,you sure on your dyno?

kaos said:

that first graph shows 100 hp at under 4000 rpm,you sure on your dyno?

Click to expand...

Actually.. The graph shows just under 50 HP at 4000 RPM.. But you where "HALF" right.

And i can´t speak for the dyno itself. Schnieders has a good rep. in Stockholm, but i haven´t used them myself.

Both PeGe and Superlight on the board used them on there bikes. PeGe got 145 HP out of his 999S-03 and Superlight got somewhere around 120-125 out of his 916SP3.

Those numbers where after mapping. and both got a ~5-7% increase in HP from mapping there PCIII´s (if memory serves).

//amullo

kaos said:

that first graph shows 100 hp at under 4000 rpm,you sure on your dyno?

Click to expand...

The "100 hp" curve you were looking at is the torque curve, it's scale is shown on the right. Peak HP has not changed on the bike, they are both about 134hp. There is about a 4hp gain in the midrange, and about the same at very low rpm (although its a bit difficult not knowing where the operator started pulling (what rpm did he strart rolling on the throttle) for the dyno run). I don't know what type of fuel you are running, but he's got you a little lean at 13:1, stoichiometric is typically about 14:1 but varies a little bit depending on the fuel composition.

Fuel is probably Euro-Shell 98 octane (Premium-gas) or MAYBE Shell´s V-power 99 octane "pure" gas.

//amullo

It's pretty hard to calculate stoichiometric without knowing the exact composition. For instance if I were to use octane (C8H18), I would get a stoich. AFR of 15:1. Typically gasoline has the chemical formula CnH1.87n , where n is anywhere between 7 and 9. On top of that many fuels add ethanol which will change the stoichiometric ratio even more, so knowing the amount of ethanol is also important. Anything than adds carbon, hydrogen, oxygen or nitrogen will affect the AFR. So I can't say for sure if 13:1 is lean for European fuel. Typically, you will make a little more power just below stoichiometric mix because the fuel near the cylinder walls looses heat and doesn't burn that well.

Brian,
I'm looking to do the same thing on my 916. consensus told me to get it dynoed for peak performance. I had a PC installed on my 600RR with a full system, no dyno, just downloaded a map and off I went. The bike absolutely screamed after that, no glitches. That is why we own Ducatis, we want to be different and spend more money at the same time.

DOH! Damn the wife for switching me to decaf! 13:1 (13 parts air, 1 part fuel) is rich! I've got to stop posting when i'm tired.

desmomoto said:

When I received my brand new 05 999s from dealership, they already had installed the factory half system termi and racing factory control unit. Do I have to dyno tune the bike also? If the answer is yes, why? Didn’t the factory already tune the control unit for the optimum performance? My bike sounds amazing; on every downshift she makes huge explosive boooming sound, loud enough to cause hard attack. Is that going to change after dyno tuning the bike? She runs good but takes her time passing 240kph.

Click to expand...

It's probably making that huge booming sound because it's too lean and back firing....

rcrob said:

DOH! Damn the wife for switching me to decaf! 13:1 (13 parts air, 1 part fuel) is rich! I've got to stop posting when i'm tired.

Click to expand...

I was waiting for someone to say something

Back to the original question, no, you don't HAVE to dyno to map a PCIII - it's just easier and quicker. You can build a perfectly good map yourself, with any decent Wide-band O2 sensor and data logger setup. The advantage is that you can change it as you see fit, and continue to optimize the fuel map as you ride and also as you make any other tuning changes, without paying any more $$$ for updated dyno maps.

OldBaldy said:

I was waiting for someone to say something

Back to the original question, no, you don't HAVE to dyno to map a PCIII - it's just easier and quicker. You can build a perfectly good map yourself, with any decent Wide-band O2 sensor and data logger setup. The advantage is that you can change it as you see fit, and continue to optimize the fuel map as you ride and also as you make any other tuning changes, without paying any more $$$ for updated dyno maps.

Click to expand...

Easy for you to say and do. I'm good for changing the oil, thats about it.