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Shouldn't be an issue, you'll still have to sand the areas to be painted and just prep it like any other surface. If you are painting areas and leaving some areas as exposed carbon fiber, you should wet and dry sand the exposed areas with 400-600 grit paper and then clear coat over the whole thing.

That would be my approach.

Not carbon fiber, but I'm in the process of painting my 1299 track bodywork.





When I'm finished, I'm going to be painting my DB2 track bodywork which is all carbon.

 

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Real simple setup. It's 7'W x 8'L x 6.6'H. I bought 3 packs of clip together laminate flooring ($45), a 30" screen door ($32), a 30" x 20" x 1" filter and a cheap fan ($20).





I positioned it up against the garage door, which I open when I'm painting.
 

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It can be quite a problem sometimes. Depending on age and quality it can be full of thousands of pin holes which can be painful to fill, especially if it's to clear only. Good luck.
 

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It can be quite a problem sometimes. Depending on age and quality it can be full of thousands of pin holes which can be painful to fill, especially if it's to clear only. Good luck.
Yes, good luck with the pinholes, I just final paint coated my SR500 project cafe racer CF front mudguard ready for clear coat.... pinholes are a fact of life with CF unless you lay down a useless heavy gel coat first and then your defeating the point of carbon i.e. super light weight.
Real carbon fiber has pin holes.
 

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Did you lay this up yourself Davy? Did you bag it? A clear gel coat first gets rid of most if not all pinholes. If you've bagged it then you obviously have a pump. De-gas gel coat before applying.
 

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No I don't vacuum bag, just do a very careful and thorough job of layup.
A hot air gun gets rid of most all of the bubbles then just wiping around the layup with a gloved finger gets the rest.
All the body work and oil tank on the Daytona were made this way.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ego, thanks for the info. This is going to help me a lot. Your bike looks great too.
 
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