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Faced with mounting repair bills on my beloved 1098 I decided to get something a bit newer. I ended up with a super clean 1199 with the full titanium Termi system and this thing is a screamer, but it's like riding a flame thrower! I thought the 1098 put off some heat, but this one gets so hot it's almost unbearable to ride for more than twenty minutes at a time. The headers have already melted the bodywork underneath, so my concern is less cosmetic and more practical. The opinions on heat wrap are all over the place, but even if I could manage to insulate the headers the aluminum subframe conducts so much heat it burns your legs (it's still hot to the touch and the bike has been sitting for three hours).

Having never had this issue before I'm just curious if there are any other ways to mitigate excessive engine heat aside from some well placed carbon bits or heat wrap? I love this bike, but the heat really takes the fun out of riding it.
 

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I'm sure you've done your own research by this point since you've haven't received much help around here.
I don't own a Panigale, and while I could regurgitate some of the info I've picked reading about the heat issue, you may as well read it yourself directly from Panigale owners.
There's loads and loads of threads about the heat issue over at the forum dedicated to Panigales of all engine sizes and configurations
 

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This isn't going to be much help, I have a 1299SL and the heat is ferrocious to the point where I got blisters on my thighs as a result durung a ride.

I haven't attempted to lower the heat, on this bike I simply limit my riding to nice sunny days in winter.

However I have found in the past (with another bike) that for the manufacturers to comply with EURO 3 the combustion temperatures are very high (and so is the heat). On this particular bike, when I upgraded the exhaust system I replaced the ECU with a "Race" spec ECU (that operates open loop i.e. no lambda) - so it's not technically road legal anymore. This change cooled the bike incredibly (so it no longer is uncomfortably hot) at the consequence of drastically increasing fuel consumption (to the point where I think the fuel is being used as combustion camber coolant in this particular case (approx 10l / 100km on the street).

I think some enrichening the mixture will cool the combuition temperatures and limit heat, but you may need to eliminate the lambda sensor to effectively enrichen the mixture. Other people who actualy ride thier Panigales may have more guarenteed solutions.

Andrew...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This isn't going to be much help, I have a 1299SL and the heat is ferrocious to the point where I got blisters on my thighs as a result durung a ride.

I haven't attempted to lower the heat, on this bike I simply limit my riding to nice sunny days in winter.

However I have found in the past (with another bike) that for the manufacturers to comply with EURO 3 the combustion temperatures are very high (and so is the heat). On this particular bike, when I upgraded the exhaust system I replaced the ECU with a "Race" spec ECU (that operates open loop i.e. no lambda) - so it's not technically road legal anymore. This change cooled the bike incredibly (so it no longer is uncomfortably hot) at the consequence of drastically increasing fuel consumption (to the point where I think the fuel is being used as combustion camber coolant in this particular case (approx 10l / 100km on the street).

I think some enrichening the mixture will cool the combuition temperatures and limit heat, but you may need to eliminate the lambda sensor to effectively enrichen the mixture. Other people who actualy ride thier Panigales may have more guarenteed solutions.

Andrew...
That’s interesting! It never occurred to me that the ECU would factor in, but it makes sense. Unfortunately in my case I’m guessing it’s alreasy been switched when the titanium Termis were installed, but it’s worth looking into. Thanks!
 

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On my 1299 I put one layer of heat wrap on the rear header. Stayed 1" back from the weld and didn't wrap over where it connects to the lower exhaust. It cuts the heat a little bit. Still hot as hell but bearable. People are passionately on either side of the fence when using header wrap.
Biggest thing I do to regulate heat is, I don't cruise the city with it. My 1299 is by far the most fun bike I've owned and by far the worst "in town" bike I've owned. If I want to putt around I jump on one of my Jap bikes, when I want to head to the mountains and have fun I get out the 1299. You can see a little of the wrap I did in the picture. It is a PITA to get that pipe off and wrap it.

988550
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm hesitant to wrap the headers for fear of the fiberglass fusing to the pipes, but your solution seems more practical since that bit is barely exposed.
 

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I only wrapped the rear horseshoe pipe that’s under the carbon fiber cover.
I wouldn’t wrap all the exhaust. I’ve never had a issue with wrap sticking to headers, but it will discolor the pipe.
It’s been my experience not to wrap over welds or joints. There’s a chance welds will crack and wrapping over joints can fuse the joint together. Use a good copper anti seize on the joint before reassembly.
***Just my opinion here. There are people who are very against wrapping pipes.
 

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That’s interesting! It never occurred to me that the ECU would factor in, but it makes sense. Unfortunately in my case I’m guessing it’s alreasy been switched when the titanium Termis were installed, but it’s worth looking into. Thanks!

Yeah, probably not.
The Akro's get the up map option but the termi's don't IIRC you have to make your own arrangements so maybe it's just running very, very lean
 

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I'm not trying to offend anyone, but pipe wrap is for suckers. If you want to do this right, then you need to use a shield barrier, an exhaust system coating or a combination of both.

For a shield barrier we use this stuff ( ZircoFlex® Ceramic Heat Shields ) on the inside surfaces of all of the bodywork on the exhaust system side of the Mono. As far as an exhaust system coating is concerned, I went with a Jet Hot ceramic satin ( https://www.jet-hot.com/ ). It looks great, eliminates the need for cleaning/polishing your pipes every season (unless you're into that sort of thing) and has held up for 9 years now.

988616
 

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I'm not trying to offend anyone, but pipe wrap is for suckers. If you want to do this right, then you need to use a shield barrier, an exhaust system coating or a combination of both.

For a shield barrier we use this stuff ( ZircoFlex® Ceramic Heat Shields ) on the inside surfaces of all of the bodywork on the exhaust system side of the Mono. As far as an exhaust system coating is concerned, I went with a Jet Hot ceramic satin ( https://www.jet-hot.com/ ). It looks great, eliminates the need for cleaning/polishing your pipes every season (unless you're into that sort of thing) and has held up for 9 years now.

View attachment 988616
I did the wrap job on my 1199 and you are right cos I didn’t think it made a bit of difference at all, it’s just how the bike is and has been debated many times by myself and with friends but nothing seems to stop the heat as the subframe is also like one giant thermal conductor to the inner thigh.
 

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I did the wrap job on my 1199 and you are right cos I didn’t think it made a bit of difference at all, it’s just how the bike is and has been debated many times by myself and with friends but nothing seems to stop the heat as the subframe is also like one giant thermal conductor to the inner thigh.
Unfortunately, as Homer pointed out, the laws of Thermodynamics must be obeyed...

 

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Have you considered/ tried carbon subframe covers?
As far as I've read, they're supposed to be helpful
Better yet, a carbon subframe cover, lined with ZircoFlex... this stuff:
988709

Seriously guys, this stuff works, and I speak from experience. The setup for what would ultimately become the power unit for the MonoR put out significantly more heat than the 2.3L and 2.5L Duratec/Mountune units we were using.
988711

To the point where the upper rear body and rh sidepod, which were closest to the Ti exhaust system, were becoming heat damaged after a very short period of time. The solution was to line the area with ZircoFlex... you can just see it lining the bottom of the sidepod in the picture above.

Now... keep in mind, any system which produces X amount of heat, is still going to produce that. However, by incorporating responses such as previously mentioned, e.g., heat resistant finishes, such as those provided by ceramic coating, and/or thermal barriers that heat can be managed spatially.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Better yet, a carbon subframe cover, lined with ZircoFlex... this stuff:
View attachment 988709
Seriously guys, this stuff works, and I speak from experience. The setup for what would ultimately become the power unit for the MonoR put out significantly more heat than the 2.3L and 2.5L Duratec/Mountune units we were using.
View attachment 988711
To the point where the upper rear body and rh sidepod, which were closest to the Ti exhaust system, were becoming heat damaged after a very short period of time. The solution was to line the area with ZircoFlex... you can just see it lining the bottom of the sidepod in the picture above.

Now... keep in mind, any system which produces X amount of heat, is still going to produce that. However, by incorporating responses such as previously mentioned, e.g., heat resistant finishes, such as those provided by ceramic coating, and/or thermal barriers that heat can be managed spatially.
Thanks for the tip. That's the kind of input I was looking for!
 
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