The 97 was the last 916 sporting the classic decals, the 98 fairings were blank.
Google the 916, you will find it. My Easy Share loading dock took a shit, otherwise I'd send you a picture.
Installing frame sliders is a piece of cake. You do need to install a small battery to make it work. As you know the OEM battery blocks the frame hole where you would install your sliders. I installed the Cycle Cats, they provide a strong bolt to replace the stock bolt. First you have to use a jack to steady the motor's height due to the fact you have to remove the main OEM frame bolt and replace it with the Cycle Cat bolt. Because when taking out the OEM bolt some shifting may occurr, resulting in misalignment of the frame bolt hole and motor. No problem: using the jack, simply move the motor up or down to reallign the frame and motor hole. Once this is done, insert the Cycle Cat bolt and then spin on the rest of the parts and your done. Use anti sieze and make sure the torque specs are followed. They really protect the sides of your bike and are designed to break off if impacted directly, thus saving vitals like the frame.
The hard part is drilling the fairing holes to accomodate the sliders. This is a little nerve racking. I've done it three times now so its not that big of a deal now. However, I've seen them where the slider isn't centered to the hole and that looks like shit. The first one I did I slapped modeling clay on the inside of the fairing and then inserted a short pencil in the frame hole, making sure the pencil length was centered and just the right length. Because when you put the fairing back on the fairing you want the pencil to only touch when you push on the outside of the fairing. I pushed on it and the pencil lead made a pinpoint impression in the clay. Thats where I drilled the hole, a pilot hole then used a door knob tool to finish it.
The second method was with a laser pointer, or laser line level. I simply put the bike on its Pit Bull, removed the fairing and set up the laser pointer on a shelf next to the bike at the correct height. Needless to say, you want the pinpoint of the light directly in the center of the frame hole. Once this is done you replace the fairings, mark the spot where the laser light is touching and then drill. No pilot hole this time, I just went for it and it was perfect. You can use that flexible door edge guard material around the fairing hole, that looks clean.
BTW, I did this to my 916 for the one time I took it to the track. I bought a set of rashed fairings and had them completely repaired and primered. I drilled the frame slider holes in them, not the stock fairings. Personally, for anyone to drill holes in those beautiful and expensive stock 916 fairings, I'm talking about the ones with the cool decals, they are out of touch with reality. Talk about tacky and destructive to one of the cool things about the older 916s. Makes me want to puke.
I still have the fairings and the Cycle Cats, they are both off my bike. Now that you brought this up, I'll sell the package for $250 OBO. The package originally cost me $500 with the fairing repair, Cats and fairings.
Framesliders.. I use Cyclecat aswell, and they saved my bike once. I swear by them.
I centered mine by installing the mountingpoints and the screws, then applied som grease to the mounting bolt for the slider and put the fairing on. The grease rubbed of on the inside of the fairing and that was that. I used a large.bore drill/Hole-cutter and finished the edges off with a dremel tool.
I´ve had two crashfairing. A pair of roadrashed 996 fairings and now Sebimoto racefairings with a "boat" to collect the oil if the engine blows. The originals where far easier to mount, but the sebimoto stuff looks better once in place.
I´ve also installed front and rear axlesliders
Mine with racefairings
Here is another example of frameslider mounting. These are from Ducati-Kaemna in Germany i believe.
The decals on the sidefairings are just that. Decals (stickers, if you like). They are mounted as a step between color spraying and clearcoat spraying.
The battery i use is a small Yuasa 5 or 7 amp battery. If you have the newer Gel-type battery, you can modify the batterybox to hold it. But the big old Yuasa YB16AL-A2 won´t fit. Exchange batteries can include: Yuasa YTZ7S (preferred), YTX7L/BS, YT7B/BS, or similar. Mine is a YTZ7S
I'm not technical, I'll defer to Amullo on that but from my own experience your charging system has to be tip top before installing a smaller battery. It seems the older two phase rectifiers and associated wires are very sensitive to any changes in the system. Eventually your wire connectors are going to fry with the rectifier as well. For some reason I believe this might be hastened with any changes in the stock set up. I would recommend upgrading these items before installing a smaller battery, you will have to do it someday anyway. There have been many posts regarding electricals on the older superbikes and I know Amullo is well versed in this area.