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Bon Vivant
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Discussion Starter #1
I absolutely despise flat colors. Therefore I'm itching to paint the frame and wheels on my streetfighter.

I know that moto and shifttech have both had their bikes apart that far and I know at least moto has painted his frame (and it looks fantastic!)

I also realize that this is a big job and I have a an idea of what I'm in for but can anyone who's changed a frame on this or a 1098 tell me
what complications I may encounter in removing the frame and during reassembly?

I'm looking for any hints or tips. I have some time to think it through and plan for the job, I'm thinking about this for a winter project.

Mike

 

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Flyn.

I would think the SF is a piece o piss to strip as most of the cables are in the rear tail or front light.
Reckon tank off, forks,light,swinger,tail & undo the engine & it drops out.

You will need to break the chain.

Deffo not as hard as a full faired with the cables in the frame

You may even not need to drain the water if you can fix the rads somehow with tiewraps

The only thing i now dont like with that pic is the gold wheels, think they would look better black

Just pondering on whether i should make a matrix streetfighter & paint it matrix green.........think it would look good against the gold
 

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Bon Vivant
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Can you photoshop the plastic under the tank and the seat, and the airvents in red to see what the bike would look like?
Sorry BigL I'm not that good with photoshop, I tried it and I can't make it look right.


Blackie, I don't plan on separating the swingarm from the engine so I don't think I'll have to break the chain.

Bodywork,tank, airbox
Rear subframe and rear top of shock.
Front end - intact.
Move some wiring
And lift the frame off the engine assembly...

What am I missing besides some minor things like rearsets, rear master, upper rad etc.?

Oh, BTW - don't like black wheels, they will be glossy bright gold like a 1098R.
 

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Matt said it was fairly easy and it only took about 3 hours to take it down to the frame (even with phone interuptions).

-M
 

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I just took apart and reassembled most of the tail section to install my GPS unit last night. The design of the bike from an assembly standpoint is pretty crazy, but I think it's manageable.

During disassembly, take pictures of every fastener you can before you remove it and bag/tag all of them. There are a lot of special shoulder bolts that go in specific places, but are threaded the same as other screws. If you did the disassembly and reassembly over a short period of time, you probably won't run into many problems, but if it take a couple weeks or more to get the frame painted, you could have a real mess on your hands if you weren't organized from the start.

Should be a fun project.
 

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It was REALLY easy to take it apart. You WON"T need to break the chain. I did get it apart in about 3 hours. You can leave the radiator and hoses attached as well as the airbox and throttle bodies. The wiring is simple, even the tail section was simple. I took me a full 8 hours to put it back together, but thats because I was working with a fresh painted frame.
 

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Mike
That will look great. I love the red frame photoshop you did. The wheels would look awesome in gold. Good luck with the project.
 

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Yes sorry chaps my mistake. the chain stays intact. I had a memory lapse...:D
 

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Don't paint over the VIN.
TIP: Use sewing pins, you know the ones that come with your dress shirt you buy once a year? Stick 'em in the VIN holes when primering and sealing, they will be completely legible afterwards. If the pin doesn't stay, use a drop of crazy glue to secure them. This will not be necessary with the basecoat and clearcoat application, as the basecoat is very thin layers, and the clear is, well, clear. You can skip the pin stickage if you prefer to go in after and re-poke the holes free of paint, but that is more of a PIA.

Moto's frame was Epoxy primered, Urethane sealed & sanded, Urethane sealed & basecoat Red applied within 2 hours after sealer applied, and clearcoated within 24 hours of basecoat application.

Epoxy primer color= Black
Sealer color= Black
White can be used in place of Black if you need a brighter version of Red, but if you've seen his frame, it doesn't need it. The bigger benefit of using black under the Red is avoiding the white-out effect from any possible scratches.
 

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I'd wait until next year, I've just seen a new 1198S in black and they changed the frame color and wheels, the black 1198S now has a red frame and black wheels. I can see that happen to the SF soon enough!
 

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Bon Vivant
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the tips everybody

Moto did you take the rear subframe off as an assembly or in pieces? And did you have to remove all the wiring from the tail or did you just let it all hang there?
I'm wondering if there is a crossbar where the top of the shock mounts or if that comes off the frame so it will all lift off around the components and wiring?

DT996 Why so much catalyzed primer and sealer? Did you strip the frame to bare metal?
If not it should already be sealed pretty good with the factory paint job - scuff- non sanding sealer (in red) - basecoat - clearcoat... ????
 

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Thanks for the tips everybody

Moto did you take the rear subframe off as an assembly or in pieces? And did you have to remove all the wiring from the tail or did you just let it all hang there?
I'm wondering if there is a crossbar where the top of the shock mounts or if that comes off the frame so it will all lift off around the components and wiring?
Matt was the one that took the bike apart. Shoot him an email at [email protected].

Here are some pictures that I took when it was apart.











with the Termi:


with the high pipes ( not bolted up):
 

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Thanks for the tips everybody

DT996 Why so much catalyzed primer and sealer? Did you strip the frame to bare metal?
If not it should already be sealed pretty good with the factory paint job - scuff- non sanding sealer (in red) - basecoat - clearcoat... ????
  • When you're dealing with flat finishes (factory Black), you have to be able to guarantee adhesion (Epoxy primer).
  • Sealer is first used as sanding base, to smooth any ripples in factory and epoxy coatings ( I rarely sand the epoxy coat to maintain integrity of the seal it provides between factory and new finishes).
  • Next seal coat is applied wet, thin, and blemish free over the smoothed frame. This coat provides the best bite for the basecoat to adhere to. You can actually spray basecoat over epoxy primer, but if your timing isn't right, you can miss the window that allows your work to be warrantied according to product data -very important to me and my name. That and I wanted the best results for this project, so no steps were skipped.
 

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Flyn,
Love the red radiator guards. Is that photoshop also or did you paint/powdercoat them red already?
 
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