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Discussion Starter #21
I got the excess out with the syringe and am now at the proper level. As it turns out, I had overfilled it only after 3 quarts because I hadn't calculated the amount I had filled the filter with before I installed it.
It's now at the dealer for the PIN code message and the fue sensor error I keep getting. Also, I hope they can do something about the fueling issue but I'm planning on doing the Tuneboy install this winter anyway. The dealer was trying to convince me to send the ecu out for the Rexxer re-flash instead.
 

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good to know. what diameter tube would that support? and where to buy, for the non-medical professional?
I just always get stuff like that from my office, so I'm not sure about non-medical sources. I imagine any auto parts/supply place would have something usable.
 

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I have had bikes that recommend running the bike for three minutes and then letting it sit for three minutes. There isn't much difference that I have seen. I have also had bikes that had two different sets of marks on the dip stick. One for warm and one for cold.

I think we all get to be paranoid about this. Like someone else mentioned, if I have an engine that wants four quarts of oil, I'll add three and check the dipstick just to be sure. Then I'll add a half and check the dip stick again. At this point, I'll even start the engine for 30 seconds to fill the oil filter. Some may cringe at this but given that a low oil light never comes on (in a car at least) until you are under by a full quart, running it for 30 seconds down a half quart shouldn't hurt anything. On a sight window or dipstick, I try to get it to 3/4 up from the low mark. Halfway may be ideal but I'd rather have a little bit more than a little bit less while still residing in the safe zone.

I bet an engine guy would say if you have a 6 quart capacity you could run it at 5 1/2 and not hurt anything. Given that engines often consume some oil, there has to be a safety margin that, as enthusiasts, we always in the middle of given how cautious we all are. And with an oil light, I figure if it doesn't come on I must be okay.

Has anyone ever had their low oil light come on? How low were you?

NC
 

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The light is for oil pressure, not oil level, isn’t it ? If the level is so low it affects pressure your engine is probably being damaged. I always put oil in my filter before installing, even if it’s mounted horizontally.
 

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I assume you are correct and low oil level will lead to low oil pressure but if they have a sensor that can indicate a drop in pressure they ought to be able to calibrate such that it comes on before damage is done. If a person has a "low oil light" that can come on when oil is low, most people aren't going to worry about whether it it low pressure or low volume. They will naturally assume if the low oil light is NOT on, then there is enough oil. In this instance I side with those people. If the low oil light only comes on when damage has been done, then there is no reason to have it. The light needs to come on when you are close to damaging the engine. If the light only comes on when damage is done it shouldn't be called the "Low Oil Light, it should be called the "Catastrophic Engine Damage Has Occurred Light" and it should look like :surprise:

At least that is how I see it. :smile2:

NC


The light is for oil pressure, not oil level, isn’t it ? If the level is so low it affects pressure your engine is probably being damaged. I always put oil in my filter before installing, even if it’s mounted horizontally.
 

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Oil indicators are moving to level not low pressure... my 15 burns about a quart every 4000 miles, and it will indicate as little as 50ml low (on the dash). I usually add when it indicates 200ml low.

My car (13 subaru) also indicates level not pressure.
 

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There seems to be some very unusual information in this thread. If the multi has a sensor and readout for oil level this would be the first bike to ever have one. I've certainly never seen one and I know this bike very well. The light on the bottom right of the display is an oil PRESSURE light.
The oil pickup is deep in the engine and will work with 1,5 qts of oil. The capacity required is not to keep pressure up, it's for longevity and cooling.
 

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Don’t the newer ones still have a sight glass ? Is it that much trouble to hold the bike level and look at it before you ride once a week or so ?Its so easy even I do it, and I am amazingly lazy.
 

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+1 for SF! I've done it this way and it's easy, although I just siphoned the excess out by sucking on the end of the pipe to get it started.
I researched on most topic and I have tried clear tubes like the one used in aquarium pump, it's almost impossible to get the tube in to get some oil, and I have tried the spray can tube which I can't have luck getting any oil out from the filler cap, is there anything that I didn't do it right??? I did this while the engine is cold and bike on center stand
 

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I got the excess out with the syringe and am now at the proper level. As it turns out, I had overfilled it only after 3 quarts because I hadn't calculated the amount I had filled the filter with before I installed it.
It's now at the dealer for the PIN code message and the fue sensor error I keep getting. Also, I hope they can do something about the fueling issue but I'm planning on doing the Tuneboy install this winter anyway. The dealer was trying to convince me to send the ecu out for the Rexxer re-flash instead.
Can u shed some light how and what item u used for getting the oil out using a syringe? What size tubing u use?
 

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I get a turkey blaster from the dollar store and attach some tubing to the tip , enough to reach the bottom of the case.
 

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I get a turkey blaster from the dollar store and attach some tubing to the tip , enough to reach the bottom of the case.
Thanks, I have tried tubing but I realise it's very difficult to push the tubing into reach of the oil, I have tried clear tubing from aquarium shop and also the spray can straw harder tubing not sure what I missed, it seems impossible
 

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Thanks, I have tried tubing but I realise it's very difficult to push the tubing into reach of the oil, I have tried clear tubing from aquarium shop and also the spray can straw harder tubing not sure what I missed, it seems impossible
I use some that fits the blaster, probably fuel line. You might have to wiggle it a little to get it around everything but it’s certainly no big deal.
 

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What are you all doing? There's a drain plug for the oil. if you want to drain a cup or so of oil you unscrew this drain plug, let some oil out, screw it back in. Am I missing something here,
 

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Yes, even the workshop manual tells you to check the oil when the engine is off but hot and let it settle. I changed the oil but now I can't see anything registering in the window. Is the oil so clear that I can't see it. I put 4.5 quarts in but am afraid I've overfilled it again. UGH!
ALso, when I put everything back together, I took it out to fill it with gas. When I filled the tank and tried to restart the bike I got a message asking for the PIN code (which I don't have). Its the second time I've gotten that so I had recently replaced the battery in the fob. In addition, I got the dreaded fuel sensor error. I'm in the northeast and it's 70 degrees today and had expected to be out riding :frown2:
My 2015 instruction manual says to check it when it's cold, and when the bike is perfectly upright.

I know that when it's perfectly filled, and on the kickstand, nothing registers in the window. It has to be upright to see any oil in the window.
 

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WTH? I have never seen that? Is
Oil indicators are moving to level not low pressure... my 15 burns about a quart every 4000 miles, and it will indicate as little as 50ml low (on the dash). I usually add when it indicates 200ml low.

My car (13 subaru) also indicates level not pressure.
WTH? I have never seen that? What part of the screen does it show up on?
 
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