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On my '13 MTS 1200, I read on a thread here to check the oil cold (which seemed odd to me). I then added oil but once the engine warmed up, it showed that the oil level was above the Max mark. Is there an easy way to remove some of the excess oil? I saw a YouTube video where they took a spray bottle nozzle and pumped off the excess. However, this didn't work for me. I don't think it was long enough to reach the oil.
If not, I might as well do an oil change. Does the center stand need to be removed to do this?

Thanks
 

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You can remove the bolt that plugs where the oil pressure sender attaches on other Ducs and insert a hose. Hit the starter, it'll pump out nicely.

It is very easy to overfill the MTS.
t_bare
 

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I use large disposable aluminum baking trays when i change oil or work on my bikes, they are great for catching spills and such.

i would put on of these underneath the oil drain, loosen it and catch a bit of oil. If you drain too much, either top off a little with fresh oil or use some of the oil you use drained.

I have about 300 miles on the oil in my 1299S. I need to swap the oil drain plug with one that I can safety wire for track use.

I will use this procedure above to swap the drain plugs. I figure I'll probably lose about 5-6oz of oil at most.
 

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On my '13 MTS 1200, I read on a thread here to check the oil cold (which seemed odd to me). I then added oil but once the engine warmed up, it showed that the oil level was above the Max mark. Is there an easy way to remove some of the excess oil? I saw a YouTube video where they took a spray bottle nozzle and pumped off the excess. However, this didn't work for me. I don't think it was long enough to reach the oil.
If not, I might as well do an oil change. Does the center stand need to be removed to do this?

Thanks
You don't HAVE to remove the center stand, but it's less likely to result in mess... Can get to the drain bolt, and the filter without removing the bashplate/belly pan, but any little spillage of oil will end up caught in there and it'll be hard to clean. If you want to remove the belly pan you will need to remove the center stand. If you do go down that path I'd recommend "slotting" it while you've got it off. It means in future you don't need to remove the center stand at all to get it off, and it makes oil changes A LOT easier.

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/44-multistrada/130882-slotting-belly-pan.html

Check that thread for more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies. It does seem like I'd need a longer hose than what comes on a spray bottle to reach the oil. I started taking the belly pan off to just change the oil. I recently purchased the bike with 3800 miles on it and now have about 4500 so it wouldn't hurt to change it. I'm really interested in the comment on slotting the belly pan. I read about this and it certainly would make future changes a lot easier. Does anyone have pics of what that looks like? Also, what tools did you use the cut the pan?

Cheers
 

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Uhmmm.... look at post #6 from Queestce, he posted the link with pictures on how to slot the bellypan.
 

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How about some long thin plastic hose, reasonable gauge though, and a syringe, inserted in the filler hole?

syringe by satansfist, on Flickr
Hmm, with that small diameter tube & apparatus, the vacuum created by the high viscosity of the oil would perhaps pop off the elastomeric plunger end plug before you got any oil in the syringe. If its not dangerously overfilled, I'd idle the engine to warm the oil a bit, then just use a large-ish clear tube and gravity syphon it out.

IF its dangerously overfilled so even idling it would pump oil into your intake via the breather system, then use one of the other remedies mentioned in the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Uhmmm.... look at post #6 from Queestce, he posted the link with pictures on how to slot the bellypan.
Didn't realize there was a link! This is completely different than I had been picturing. This would make the process so much easier. I have done the oil change and am now reassembling the belly pan and center stand. I'm having a helluva time getting the spring back on. Should I do that before I install the bolts for the center stand?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, even the workshop manual tells you to check the oil when the engine is off but hot and let it settle. I changed the oil but now I can't see anything registering in the window. Is the oil so clear that I can't see it. I put 4.5 quarts in but am afraid I've overfilled it again. UGH!
ALso, when I put everything back together, I took it out to fill it with gas. When I filled the tank and tried to restart the bike I got a message asking for the PIN code (which I don't have). Its the second time I've gotten that so I had recently replaced the battery in the fob. In addition, I got the dreaded fuel sensor error. I'm in the northeast and it's 70 degrees today and had expected to be out riding :frown2:
 

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Yes, even the workshop manual tells you to check the oil when the engine is off but hot and let it settle. I changed the oil but now I can't see anything registering in the window. Is the oil so clear that I can't see it. I put 4.5 quarts in but am afraid I've overfilled it again. UGH!
If you are not sure you overfilled, pick the bike up off the sidestand while standing on the right side. From vertical, slowly tip it back onto its stand, watching the sight glass. If its overfilled, at some point in this process you'll see the meniscus drop down the window. If it was underfilled, you'll still not see it.

When I am refilling the oil in my bike, I add the first two quarts right away. After that, I start adding a little at a time, waiting to see it start to register. I never add just based on what the book says since I never fully know how much I got out and how much was left.
 

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On my 13 muti it takes less than 4 quarts for a full change including filter somewhere between 3.8-3.9 quarts. I have overfilled it with putting 4 quarts in. The syringe with the small hose works well to take some out. It seems like the difference on the gauge between hot and cold is about an 1/8 the total height of the window. I get the keyless system ask for code at some gas stations. I just hold the key at the top center of the instrument panel and try again and it usually does the trick.
 

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Never heard of checking the oil warm, in anything.
I've done it both ways. I may eyeball the oil level/color before I start a bike (or other gas powered implement), especially if it's getting near time for an oil change. However, the oil level at operating temp is more important to me. So, I've also always checked the oil warm, in everything.
 

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Hmm, with that small diameter tube & apparatus, the vacuum created by the high viscosity of the oil would perhaps pop off the elastomeric plunger end plug before you got any oil in the syringe. If its not dangerously overfilled, I'd idle the engine to warm the oil a bit, then just use a large-ish clear tube and gravity syphon it out.
Use a 30ml syringe and it will suck oil out of a crankcase no problem.
 

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I've done it both ways. I may eyeball the oil level/color before I start a bike (or other gas powered implement), especially if it's getting near time for an oil change. However, the oil level at operating temp is more important to me. So, I've also always checked the oil warm, in everything.
It doesn't make one bit of difference what the oil level is warm, if your initial level when cold is not correct.
 

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It doesn't make one bit of difference what the oil level is warm, if your initial level when cold is not correct.

Depends on the engine. Some types advise cold, others after a short warm up/cool down. I do both ways
 
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