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If you follow the Caswell instruction for prepping the interior
you will have abut a 50% chance of the coating coming off.
Also if you use the nails or screws they suggest you may end up with one stuck in there.
The inside has to be completely scuffed so the Epoxy has something to bond to. This is not a chemical bond but rather a mechanical bond. Same as when you paint a bike or a house you have to sand a prep the surface for the paint to correctly adhere. Without the proper surface prep it will start to peel off.
We have a machine that rotates the tank. We put in special aggregates with water and rotate the tank for about 3 hours. 100% of the tank interior is rouged up and matte. IF you look in a stock tank you will notice it is glossy, this all need to me roughed up to take the Epoxy.

The epoxy is very thick and needs to be warm for it to flow. Again there is a technique we use to make it flow and get a even coating all around. We do two coats so We use more then the amount Caswell sends. We also check it with a Borescope to make sure it is 100% coated

Caswell makes it seem it is easy if you read their instructions they provide. It is with the proper equipment and tools. Without it can cause many problems.
There are many posts about this in this section. Go back and read a few.

Best of luck



I'm in n Ireland, iv my tank off and sitting in a warm spot with pump and filler removed, caswell is purchased and sitting in garage but does anyone know a good/ correct way to prime or prepare the inside before coating?????
 

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Many thanks for taking time to reply, it seems iv a bit of work to do....... Pity it costs so much to hand deliver to US of A and I'm skint. But where there's a will etc.
 

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Anything that rotates....Clothe dryer...95% of this process is prep-work
Agree with the prep work but I would think twice about a clothes dryer, especially a gas heated one, if there is any chance there are still gas fumes in the tank. A stray spark could REALLY expand the tank.
 
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LOL
AIR FLUFF Setting
I dont know if tank would fit in a dryer, Maybe it would.
The basic principle of constant rotation was what I was getting at

Agree with the prep work but I would think twice about a clothes dryer, especially a gas heated one, if there is any chance there are still gas fumes in the tank. A stray spark could REALLY expand the tank.
 

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Iv my tank off now a few weeks and already the front tank mounts have moved together by 12mm,ethanol isn't a big prob here and it's got me thinking ,,,, is my tank spreading due to gravity? Ie the front mounts sitting in cups carrying a large weight of fuel, if the mounts were captive in that they slid into locks that prevent the two sides moving apart.... That couldn't be to hard to cnc?
 

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Iv my tank off now a few weeks and already the front tank mounts have moved together by 12mm,ethanol isn't a big prob here and it's got me thinking ,,,, is my tank spreading due to gravity? Ie the front mounts sitting in cups carrying a large weight of fuel, if the mounts were captive in that they slid into locks that prevent the two sides moving apart.... That couldn't be to hard to cnc?
There was a post here WAY back when the spreading originally became a problem on an easy and clever method a member came up with to capture the front mounts so the tank could not spread. A couple of dollars worth of hardware was involved...no CNC required. Search the posts from around 2008 or so. That said, unless you have never ever used it in your tank then it's the ethanol.
 
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These plastic tanks will expand and contract with heat by as much as 1/4 inch. The heat cycle that it goes through will affect the shape of the tank and has nothing to do with Ethanol. Plastic tends to change shape with heat and deform unlike Alloys or Fibers The most noticeable affect is on the Paul Smart or 1000S at the flat front part of the tank. This area does not have any form or indentations such as the ignition cut out that helps to reenforce the area. This area on the PS or S tends to ripple due to this heat cycling.
Coating helps to extend the life of the tank but has limited affect in keep the form of the tank. If properly installed the coating will aid in strengthen and reenforce the structure and form.

The trick to screw down the tank will work but it will only deform in a different way.


Hope this helps a bit


Iv my tank off now a few weeks and already the front tank mounts have moved together by 12mm,ethanol isn't a big prob here and it's got me thinking ,,,, is my tank spreading due to gravity? Ie the front mounts sitting in cups carrying a large weight of fuel, if the mounts were captive in that they slid into locks that prevent the two sides moving apart.... That couldn't be to hard to cnc?
 

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Mine is the 1000s and the only problem I'm having is on the side deformation . I wonder then should the tank base be insulated with gold reflective tape ? Or just do everything , insulate , coat and modified mounts??????
 
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Heat shield may help, it may not. Never tried it because
The sun here in California really expands the tank.
Coating does help the tank but it is not a cure.


Mine is the 1000s and the only problem I'm having is on the side deformation . I wonder then should the tank base be insulated with gold reflective tape ? Or just do everything , insulate , coat and modified mounts??????
 

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I am unable to post in the classified section and just wanted to let you guys know that i have a one year old fuel tank for a Sport 1000 for sale. It´s located in Sweden but shipping is not a problem.

It has light scratching and needs new paint.

Will let it go for 500 USD. Please contact me for shipping quotes.

Send PM
 

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So is there an end-all be-all decision on what the best option is for us?

From what I researched so far, I can:

1) Buy an OEM tank and have it coated
- Even coating won't 100% prevent expansion. From what I understand it just drastically slows it down.
- Reduces tank capacity

2) Buy a Fuel Cel tank
- Some reported leaking issues and wasn't perfect

3) Buy an Alluminum tank
- I can't even find one for sale
 

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So is there an end-all be-all decision on what the best option is for us?

From what I researched so far, I can:

1) Buy an OEM tank and have it coated
- Even coating won't 100% prevent expansion. From what I understand it just drastically slows it down.
- Reduces tank capacity

2) Buy a Fuel Cel tank
- Some reported leaking issues and wasn't perfect

3) Buy an Alluminum tank
- I can't even find one for sale
4) Shrink your current tank and coat it yourself

I was in the same boat as you with all those same negative forum posts. Just thought I was screwed. But I met a couple guys in person who have had their tanks coated for years without any ill affect... basically told me to ignore the forum talk. So I finally bit the bullet and shrunk it and coated it this past winter. Glad I did.

Honestly I think a lot of the negativity you see around here at least is repeated "forum lore". Caswell is some very very nice stuff and there's dozens and dozens of success stories around the web on Aprillias and all manner of bike...

Stuff is VERY hard and adheres VERY well. I basically had to sand down the excess for example. I can't see fuel or anything in the tank penetrating it. I made sure to prep it exactly per instructions and to ensure the epoxy reached everywhere in the tank including the filler neck/pump flange.

So anyways there's my take on it. A couple of negative posts online doesn't sour a particularly labor reliant product IMO.
 

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I'm not trying to be negative toward Caswells, but you stated it gets very hard and I wonder if something that flexed with the tank might be better ? If you have two materials with different characteristics glued together, is there movement between the two ? I assume you don't see any stress cracks ?
 

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I'm not trying to be negative toward Caswells, but you stated it gets very hard and I wonder if something that flexed with the tank might be better ? If you have two materials with different characteristics glued together, is there movement between the two ? I assume you don't see any stress cracks ?
My tank has been re-shrunk,and Caswelled for several years now. I race it. I've had a couple of <ahem> agricultural excursions that caused a scrape or two on the fuel tank since then. No problems so far. I have only run non-ethanol in it since the coatings, and from some trepidation, I did purchase a new tank a couple of years ago, had it Caswell coated and it is still in the original box, never installed. Suspect that as long as I have it in reserve I will never need it.

"My habits protect me but may assassinate you." Mark Twain said that....
 

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List of models with tank expanding problem

Sorry if this is a repost.

• 2003-2008 Monster 620, 620 dark, 620 i.e. dark, 620 i.e., M 695, M 695 dark, 800, S2R, S4R,
S4R S Tricolore, S2R dark, S2R1000, and S4RS motorcycles;
• 2009-2011 Monster 696, 696+, 696+ ABS, 796, 796 ABS, 1100, 1100S,1100 ABS, 1100 evo
ABS, 1100S ABS, M696, M1100, and M1100S motorcycles;
• 2003-2009 Multistrada 1000, 1000S, 1000 DS, 1000S DS, 1100 DS, 1100S DS, 620, 620 dark,
MTS 1000, MTS 1000S, MTS 1100 and MTS 1100S motorcycles;
• 2010-2011 Multistrada 1200, 1200S Sport, 1200S Touring and 1200S Pikes Peak motorcycles;
• 2006-2010 SportClassic Sport 1000, Paul Smart 1000, Paul Smart 1000 LE, GT Touring, GT
1000, GT 1000 Touring, GT 1000 Bicolore, Sport 1000S, Sport 1000 Biposto and Sport 1000
Monoposto motorcycles;
• 2009-2011 Streetfighter and Streetfighter S motorcycles;
• 2007-2011 Superbike 848, 848 NH, 848 Hayden Limited, 848 evo, 1098, 1098S, 1098
Tricolore, 1098R, 1098R Bayliss, 1198R, 1198, 1198S, 1198R corse SE, 1198S corse SE and
1198SP motorcycles; and
• 2007-2011 Hypermotard 796 matt, 796 red, 1100, 1100 evo, 1100 evo SP, 1100S, 1100E and
1100SP motorcycles.

Source: http://www.girardgibbs.com/docs/cases/67_ducati-class-notice.PDF
 
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