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find a nice 900 afterwards, completely different animal.

:)

concerning the problem, next thing that comes to my mind is the choke
mechanism. If you would have serious problems with your fuel supply
needle, you would have fuel about everywhere by now, out of the carbs
overflow, out of the emulsion tube straight into the engine ... with engine
shut off that is.
i just checked with the haynes manual, there is no float level value listed
there, they recommend to give the carbs to a ducati shop. :rolleyes:
it is also no listed if the needle valve has got a spring inside or not.
 

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Hi,

There are a couple of bleed jets at the front of the carbs, you should check these to make shure they are not clogged.

If the float level was way off or the needle damged, gas would be flowing out of the carbs (like Muschi said :rolleyes: ). Unburnt fuel means it is getting waaaayyyy too much gas (and 2 km is quite a short distance). when you turn the bike off, wait a few minutes and check the carb to see if the gas is overflowing.

Gray
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Both carbs off again.
Slowly removing part by part from good carb then bad carb, making careful comparisons. Found this, needle 0.75mm shorter on the rich carb. I figure that must convert to about 5 to 7mm in fuel height.
No new float assemblies available in Australia for 2 weeks so I think I will bend the metal part of the float up the 0.75mm and see if it's an improvement.
Comments please.


 

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Comments please.
not sure at this time, as i thought we are looking for some defects that
had develloped with use, and were not build into the bike in the first place.
you are right with your assumptions so far, and a 5-7mm higher fuel level
could sure enrich the mixture compared to the correct setted carb.

maybe that alone wasn't enough to foul the plugs, and some extra fuel
from a slightly worn tip is the overdose then.

:think: :)
 

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Discussion Starter #85
After I posted that photo I compensated by bending the float arm up about 0.75mm. Then I stuffed up by rebuilding the carbs with the float assemblies reversed left for right and right for left. I then decided to run it reversed and check if the problem was fixed or changed cylinder. The problem stayed on the front cylinder BUT not as bad as it was. It took longer to drop the front cylinder out and with about 5,000 revs it runs on two again. Subject to better advice I will now swap CDI boxes over and see if that causes the problem to move over. Then I will correct the reversal of float assemblies. After that if still the same I'll get them ultrasonic cleaned. If all of the above fails I may try a knife and a bowel to collect the blood.:(
 

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take it easy, the sun will shine again tomorrow.

:) ;)

could likely be, that it is a combination of two problems, i had things like
that before, it can be a real nightmare to fix.
anyway, keep going, check if any jap-bike dealer in your area has got those
Mikuni needle valves, have the carb bodies ultra sonic cleaned and proceed
from there.
do you have the haynes manual ? those carbs are somehow sophisticated,
with lots of moving parts, i sort of would need it to get it straight

:)
 

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Ten minutes of this …



And I finished up with this …

What's the latest progress on this?

See in the pictures above, how do you get the petrol filler cap mount thing out of the tank? The bit with the lock in it and the 5 bolts? I undid the 3 bolts and removed the flip up lock part, but how do you get the next bit out so you have a big hole about 4" diameter you can get your hand / waterblaster into?
 

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take a closer look, the aluminum ring is screwed into the tank, from the
"inside", with 8 little grub screws.

cheers :)
 

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Thanks Muschi. Under the lock part on mine is filthy!!! I'll give it a cleanup tomorrow to find the grub screws and get it off, and hopefully get a decent shot of the filth inside for you guys.
 

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Both carbs off again.
Slowly removing part by part from good carb then bad carb, making careful comparisons. Found this, needle 0.75mm shorter on the rich carb. I figure that must convert to about 5 to 7mm in fuel height.
No new float assemblies available in Australia for 2 weeks so I think I will bend the metal part of the float up the 0.75mm and see if it's an improvement.
Comments please.


Those needles are the same size. The shorter one is because the little "plunger" is supposed to be spring loaded to prevent damage to the seating area (the spring buffers the force of the float). It seems to be jammed into the needle. You might be able to grab it with some tweezers and free it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Over the last two weeks since my last post on this thread I’ve had those carbs on and off about 6 or 8 times. I freed up the little springs in the float needles and reset the float height back to std. Eventually I took the advice offered and had the bodies professionally cleaned. When I reassembled them I put all of the internal parts from the right offending carb into the good left carb and left parts to right side. The fueling up remained but now on the other side, at last I had made progress. This told me the bodies were clean, the electrics were OK and the rings and valve seats were also OK. Pulled them off again and changed diaphragms needles and top caps over, no change. Pulled them off again and changed float assemblies over, no change. I then figured it had to be in the jet holder assembly or jets. Pulled them off again and changed jet holders over complete with jets, no change. This just about did my head in, the only thing not changed over was the float bowls and needle jets and nothing on a bike with 1,500 km on the clock can go wrong with the bowls or needle jets. This morning I took them off again and examined the float bowls looking for a reason they may be touching the floats, all good. In desperation I took the needle jets out and examined them. Yep it’s always the last thing, over the 12 years this bike has been sitting something has eaten away at the outlet part of one needle jet and caused the hole to be about 50% larger than the other. A new jet arrives tomorrow afternoon. I’m 99.99% sure it will sing a beautiful song tomorrow night.

A new, but hopefully small problem arose when test riding last Saturday. Front brakes locked up. I had bled them as well as the rear and clutch. Used a 13mm ring spanner to crack the bleeder nipples on the side of the road and off I went without another problem (all be it on one cylinder). Tried to order new caliper seals today, was told they won’t supply and I have to clean / service and put the old seals back in or purchase new calipers @ $500 each side. Rang a different dealer and told same story, only new calipers are $300 each. Given the low km I think / hope a service and old seals will get me over the line and my mate will be taking his bike home this weekend.

Comments please. I will report back, hopefully one more time next week.



 

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Tried to order new caliper seals today, was told they won’t supply and I have to clean / service and put the old seals back in or purchase new calipers @ $500 each side. Rang a different dealer and told same story, only new calipers are $300 each. Given the low km I think / hope a service and old seals will get me over the line and my mate will be taking his bike home this weekend.
I may be wrong, but that sounds like bullshit to me. Surely there must be a seal from something else that will fit. Try Road and Race in Berkley Vale, New South Wales (Australia for our non Oz friends) http://www.roadandrace.com.au/
 

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I bought a pair of new spare calipers about 6 months ago from http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=20.5165.58

Haven't needed to fit them yet but US$200.16 for a left and right. Postage was a little high and when I first bought from them I did have to send more information to prove my credit card and address.

I did find this one http://www.sd-tec.de/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/120_1762_1899/products_id/46676?osCsid=6c56dc24b7569f921ccc3fa43af3d6b6 and I have bought parts from them and was very happy with the price and service. But it still comes to something around $100 per caliper and I'm not 100% sure that it's right for your brakes.

http://www.ducati-gowanloch.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=184_221 do show the odd caliper rebuilt kit on their website and an email to them might give you another option.

But the Ducati Parts list doesn't show that any caliper internals are available.
This one for the Brembo P4 30/34 http://www.sd-tec.de/bilder/artikelpdf/20516558.pdf from Stein Dinse only lists the basics too but the calipers are more expensive than from Yoyodyne.
 

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the following is for your kind information only, i do not make the rules, nor
have i invented any kind of brake part in my life yet:

Brembo does not sell any caliper seals, as they don't want their calipers
to be taken apart by the public.
in germany, it is considered an absolute nogo to take calipers apart, i for
myself would never do that.

but as said, this is for your info only, it seems to be common sense to take
calipers apart in the UK in example, or in india.

:)


( Tassie Dave, your Stein Dinse piston seals are for the cnc machined
racing calipers only ... )
 

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Discussion Starter #96
The new needle jet arrived 2 hours ago. Have rebuilt the carbs for the last time and tested on the road. Result ... it's running like a new bike:)
Tomorrow I'm planning to give it about 20km with screwdriver in pocket for final mixture tuning and then attack the calipers. Muschi, I think your government are overprotective if it's as you say regarding laws and brakes. Years ago when I was racing I'd think nothing of thinning my discs for weight saving then pull my calipers apart and machine the same amount off them to prevent the pistons from over extending. I will comment again after I have them apart.
Thanks to the others for the links to brake suppliers and emails offering spare calipers at mates rates.
Back again in a day or two.:D
 

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the following is for your kind information only, i do not make the rules, nor
have i invented any kind of brake part in my life yet:

Brembo does not sell any caliper seals, as they don't want their calipers
to be taken apart by the public.
in germany, it is considered an absolute nogo to take calipers apart, i for
myself would never do that.

but as said, this is for your info only, it seems to be common sense to take
calipers apart in the UK in example, or in india.

:)


( Tassie Dave, your Stein Dinse piston seals are for the cnc machined
racing calipers only ... )
I know, but it seems strange to me. I used to rebuild calipers and master cylinders very often (I had old cars). I can't see the problem myself. I'm referring to taking the pistons out and replacing the seals only, not splitting the caliper.
 

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Lack of rebuild parts for critical systems.

Read between the lines, liability attorneys.
 
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