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Discussion Starter #41
The carb clean out is going well, still waiting for new o rings and gaskets to arrive.

I have to tension the new overhead cam belts. The belt tensioner bearing requires a load of 4.5 kg or 10 lbs before being locked into place. Between my spring balance (spring scales) and the bearing I have a very strong rubber ring to enable a good grip onto the bearing surface. My question is, when the scale shows 10 lbs resistance am I still putting 10 lbs force onto the bearing given that a rubber ring is involved between the effort and the load? I think yes but my head hurts.
 

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Hi,

nah, your making it a litte hard on yourself... Take a 5mm allenkey and adjust the belt so that the allenkey will pass between the belt and the idler pulley (the non ajustable pulley). If the 5mm fits and a 6mm does not your in the gravy... :D (I would replace the belts while your at it... I would rather give out 100 dollars for belts now rather than 1000 dollars later to rebuild the motor)
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Thanks for that 5mm / 6mm tip, why isn't that in the book? Sounds like an easy way to the same result.
I did say in the previous post "I have to tension the new overhead cam belts", so the old ones (that still look new) will go into the bin.
Just for the record, what to you think regarding my question, "when the scale shows 10 lbs resistance am I still putting 10 lbs force onto the bearing given that a rubber ring is involved between the effort and the load?"
 

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I'd guess that it would still be 10lbs on the bearing. I did buy a scale when I first got my bike but have only used that method once. Now I do like most others and use the allen key.

When you fit new belts they do need the tension checked again after they have settled in. Some-one may have a more accurate mileage but about 500 kays is whrn I do it.
 

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Thanks for that 5mm / 6mm tip, why isn't that in the book? Sounds like an easy way to the same result.
I did say in the previous post "I have to tension the new overhead cam belts", so the old ones (that still look new) will go into the bin.
Just for the record, what to you think regarding my question, "when the scale shows 10 lbs resistance am I still putting 10 lbs force onto the bearing given that a rubber ring is involved between the effort and the load?"
oops.... did not see the "new" comment there, sorry (still early here and only on my 1st cup of coffee) I think the tip is not in the book because Ducati wants you to buy the 300 Euro tension mesuring tool.

I would not trust the mesurement as the rubber will stretch and absorb (or expend) energy meaning the actual force applied would be greater/less than what is displayed, as I am not an ing and not an expert on fluid dynamics I will not attemt to explain it. Use a pice of safty wire... or better yet... just do the allenkey trick :D

Gray:think:
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Thanks for the link, but WOW it is as you said, BIG. I already have a two page wiring diag. Page 1 is the drawing with numbered references, page 2 is the key describing the numbers. I also have a downloaded w/s manual and a Haynes printed version. I stopped the download when it said 1 hour 5 min remaining. Given that I think (hope) I am now on top of the job is there material in the download that I should have?
 

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... Just for the record, what to you think regarding my question, "when the scale shows 10 lbs resistance am I still putting 10 lbs force onto the bearing given that a rubber ring is involved between the effort and the load?"
You are indeed. Look at it this way-- say you've got a 10 lb. weight sitting on the ground with a hook attached to the top. You've got a scale with a hook attached to the bottom. If you hook the scale to the weight (and the scale is calibrated), and lift the scale till the weight is off the ground :abduct: , the scale will read 10 lbs.

Now, if you unhook the scale from the weight (don't drop it on your toe :eek: ), put a heavy duty O-ring between the hooks on scale and weight, then lift until the weight is suspended, the scale will still read 10 lbs. The difference will be in how far you have to raise the scale to make the weight come up off the ground.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Bryan, I posted that question elsewhere and had received the answer, but your analogy is the easiest to understand. Simple and to the point, thanks for taking the time. Kevin.

Quote,
"You are indeed. Look at it this way-- say you've got a 10 lb. weight sitting on the ground with a hook attached to the top. You've got a scale with a hook attached to the bottom. If you hook the scale to the weight (and the scale is calibrated), and lift the scale till the weight is off the ground , the scale will read 10 lbs.

Now, if you unhook the scale from the weight (don't drop it on your toe ), put a heavy duty O-ring between the hooks on scale and weight, then lift until the weight is suspended, the scale will still read 10 lbs. The difference will be in how far you have to raise the scale to make the weight come up off the ground."
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Been flat out doing non motorcycle things but got back to it today.
The carbs have just been reassembled but ...

How many tuns out do you set the pilot screws?

Can't find it in the w/s manual. So close but not over the line yet.
 

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Been flat out doing non motorcycle things but got back to it today.
The carbs have just been reassembled but ...

How many tuns out do you set the pilot screws?

Can't find it in the w/s manual. So close but not over the line yet.
I'm not saying for you to do it, but I thought rule of thumb with pilot screws on initial adjustment was 1-1.5 turns out from closed/seated.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Any advance on 1 to 1.5 turns out for the pilot screws?
It's a 2007 750 SS



Quote: from Otherwise
"Been flat out doing non motorcycle things but got back to it today.
The carbs have just been reassembled but ...
How many tuns out do you set the pilot screws?
Can't find it in the w/s manual. So close but not over the line yet."

Quote: from Warp Racer
"I'm not saying for you to do it, but I thought rule of thumb with pilot screws on initial adjustment was 1-1.5 turns out from closed/seated".
__________________
 

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Any advance on 1 to 1.5 turns out for the pilot screws?
It's a 2007 750 SS



Quote: from Otherwise
"Been flat out doing non motorcycle things but got back to it today.
The carbs have just been reassembled but ...
How many tuns out do you set the pilot screws?
Can't find it in the w/s manual. So close but not over the line yet."

Quote: from Warp Racer
"I'm not saying for you to do it, but I thought rule of thumb with pilot screws on initial adjustment was 1-1.5 turns out from closed/seated".
__________________
Have asked the couch, he concurred with Warp Racer. Mind you then he said are they Weber's (he doesn't deal much with modern carburetors ). I said "No, they should be Mikuni's (BDST 38 B 70), unless they have been changed to Keihin's", given the number of kms the bike has travelled, they are probably original.

I attach a couple of links that may help with Mikuni's, you probably know most of this stuff anyway, but it does particularly say "If the air screw has to be turned more than 2 turns out for best idling, the next smaller size pilot jet will be needed." Here is the link. http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm and this one may also help http://www.box.net/public/njc0psmd7x

Cheers
 

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How many tuns out do you set the pilot screws?
stock setting on most bike carbs is indeed 1.5 turns out,
but in the case of the CV Mikunis on our bikes, it is said to
be 3 - 3.5 turns out as a default setting.

cheers
 

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just to correct you otherwise its a 97 not 2007
if it was 2007 u wouldnt be adjusting the carbs
ill check my manual for carb settings
 

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Discussion Starter #56
just to correct you otherwise its a 97 not 2007
if it was 2007 u wouldnt be adjusting the carbs
ill check my manual for carb settings
Suitably chastised, correct 1997.
Yes they are the std Mikuni, vacuum type. All new to me.
So if I'm reading the answers properly we have one saying 1 to 1.5 turns and one saying 3 to 3.5 turns.
I actually set them at 1.5 turns before putting them back on the bike and won't be trying to start it for a couple of days, so will be keen to see additional comment. They can be adjusted in place so no harm done with the 1.5 setting if it's incorrect.
 

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what is ur email address
pm to me if u want and I can send you the carby adjustment page from the factory manual
cheers
 

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it is common sense that they need 3.5 turns out, i have been
corrected several times on this board now, as i adviced others
to got with the "standard" 1.5 turns out default setting.

trust me, even if i never had CV Mikuni carbs myself.

:think:
 

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dont know if you can read this but will pm you the proper page
out of all the jargon in the manual carby section did not have settings just told you how carbys works
 
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