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Similar to an early suggestion:

I have some thin but strong SS wire. That and using study electrician pliers make short work of spring installation in tight spots.
 

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OK, so I have a 2014 PP. I bought a centerstand form someone who wasn't using theirs. Not positive of the model, may have been a 2012. I went to install it, no issues with the bolts, but the spring would take Hercules to pull to the welded loop. There's no way in hell a cable tie is going to make that pull. Unless it's a really big one. Nor woudl needle nose pliers. Guys doing that have longer or softer springs.

I'm wondering if their was a spring length change form year to year. With the stand in the up position, there's a solid 1.125" of stretch to the loop (installed position), and it will take more stretch than that to get the hook over it. WTH??
 

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Very easy actually , you need a pair of pipe clamps with a pc of pipe , then fully open them up , next a pc. of rope or strap tied in a loop and hooked through the stand and one end of the pipe clamp, hook the other end of the pipe clamp to anything with weight or anchored to the ground with another pc. of rope or strap , a trailer towing hitchball on your truck for example , I use a strap anchored to the wood floor of my shed , hook the springs in the stand to there appropriate places , then slowly tighten the pipe clamps which should tighten about 3 inches till the bolt holes on the stand line up and put the bolts in , once your set up it can be done in under 5 minutes .
 

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Sco: Not following you. Not sure I understand what you are calling a pipe clamp. I gather you are anchoring the bike somehow, hooking the spring where it goes, then pulling on the stand itself to stretch the spring. ?

Before I tear off the spring mount at the bike, does anyone's spring hav eto be stretched 1.5" to hook it? I looked up a 2012, it has the same part no for the springs.
 

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Before I tear off the spring mount at the bike, does anyone's spring hav eto be stretched 1.5" to hook it? I looked up a 2012, it has the same part no for the springs.
Yep, 1.5" stretch is about right. It's a tight-assed spring. Keeps your centerstand from banging around.

The last few times I've used a long (10 inch) angled needle nosed pliers. Put the plier's jaws thru the spring end hook, then put the nose of the plier into the catch on the stand. Pull back on the pliers to stretch the spring and push it (or let it slip) down the pliers and into the catch. I busted my knuckles too many times at first trying to pull the spring with regular needle nose pliers, but the longer pliers and the leveraging technique has worked well.

I've also used a cheap little spring puller that I picked up somewhere. I'd sit on the floor beside the bike, fold the centerstand up and hold it in place with my leg, which also braces me against the bike. Then I lean back, say a few cuss words, and pull the springs over the hook one at the time. It doesn't seem to matter which spring get's done first, just whichever is the most cooperative.

Both of these techniques have worked for me, as long as the centerstand is folded up. It's always been a 10-20 second operation on both multis.
 

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Not sure I understand what you are calling a pipe clamp.

Google " pipe clamps " a company called Zoro has a picture of them in blue , about $20 a set , they simply are a pair of clamps that fit over pipe ends , typically 1 1/2" to 2" diameter pipe cut to any length , I use about 18" of pipe , like pipe you'd find on a natural gas line inside your house to your furnace or hot water tank , one of the clamps has an end with a handle that will tighten about 3". You could also use fabric straps with a mechanical tightener used to clamp down loads.

I gather you are anchoring the bike somehow,
The bike is on the side stand in first gear , thats all .
 

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This is what I do, I butt my back wheel against my rear bumper on my van and then use a cheap ratchet strap, one end anchored to the tow hitch on my van and the other end I anchor to a thick boot lace and hook the boot lace on the Spring, now just work the ratchet and bingo .
 

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I use a long shoelace, it's good becuase it can slide over almost anything if it's a tight area and i wrap it around my fist and pull, much more leverage than a puller with a Tee handle in close, at least that's my way.
 

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Reasons why I didn't use that one:
- handle not perpendicular to hook (picture deceiving), so the handle is more likely to be turned inot the wheel making it in the way for pulling
- handle knurled and un-coated. Good for grip, bad for scratching wheels
- length, think this one puts handle right at foot of stand, so thta's in the way, too.

Cruze was less expensive, coated, perpendicular, longer. I do like the hook of the MP.
 
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