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I'm not sure how you check the pressure on an 860 but since it doesn't use plain bearings, pressure isn't all that important anyway. Ball bearings (like the 860 uses) need oil volume, not pressure. Gear gazers are available that let you see that oil is flowing, or you can pull a cam cover and kick it over to see if the pump is working.
 

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I agree, a bevel gazers is not just for novelty show. It sits at the highest point on the engine and is a great indication of flow. Dont worry about pressure, flow rate and quantity are the key factors and they are best confirmed with a gazer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, I don't have a gear gazer. There is oil up in the tower, I just thought there might be a way to make sure there is enough. Even if you have a gear gazer, how do you know if what you see is enough? Does the pump need to be primed? I found no info on the original Ducati repair manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I pulled the oil filter and kick it over, there is flow from the tube, but again. how much is enough?
 

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You don't need to prime the pump. The only way to ensure that the pump is working as the maker intended is to take it apart and check for damage, ie scoring of the housings or teeth, which would affect the flow. If the pump is in good condition and oil flows out of the upper camshaft when the engine is started (which can be checked by removing a valve cover or the bevel cover) then all is well.
 

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<snip> I would be a little worried about the time it takes the oil to get to the top ...
:D. A fine demonstration of why not to use straight 50 ... :rolleyes:. The world has moved on, you know ... :)

I love the owner's comment:
"Once it is hot, you do not see the oil at all as it has thinned out so much".

Yeh ... :eek: :think:

Ciao

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
looks like if i were to remove the gear cover when it was running it would make quiet a mess :)
I do have to say; that bike makes much more valve train noise than mine. And I was also wondering why it wouldn't idle. I realize the motor is cold but doesn't it have starting jets (fast idle). I guess I have to invest in a gear gazer...:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
as far as 50 wt vrs 20/50. They had 20/50 when these bikes were first built and those that ran multigrade had crank problems. Mine has run 50 wt since it was new. I am not the original owner but the PO did own it from day one and told me he always ran the recommended 50 wt.
Talk to Malcome at Syd's about that. Is there any motor builder that runs multi grade on a full bearing motor?
 

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I think that as far as oil is concerned, 50 is fine if you live in a hot country, but for those of us that do not, then a multigrade is needed.
 

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I would go with a semi synthetic multi.
The key thing is to change it regularly. 1000 miles max before a change.
Bevel gears mash oil , clutch plates pollute oil and these engines can run too hot in traffic and that destroys oil. I would wager that a lot more damage is done to engines with old oil than the type of oil. Mobil 1 do a 15/50 multi for bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
took a few hours and pulled and re installed the oil pump. perfect condition. As before, everything inside looks VG. Ready to run again. She runs great! Now time to sell. My repaired back can't handle the ride.
 

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When running 50wt. one should take the time to warm the engine more than a few min. before riding. Good quality 20/50 motorcycle oil is fine on a street ridden bevel.The crank problems were caused by more than oil grade. The heavier oil just masked them longer.
 
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