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Discussion Starter #1
I changed my oil last week and there was a good bit of oil under the motor- assumed this was coming from the filter, so retightened and wiped everything down- it had gotten up onto the side of the engine case too, from what I assumed was being blown up when riding.

Took it out yesterday for a short ride, and there is fresh oil in one of the unused bolt holes under the clutch. I cleaned out this hole with qtips, so I am certain that it's fresh oil in the hole. What's going on? Is there something that's supposed to be in here that I'm missing? Searched the forum and found nothing about this in any of the oil leak threads.

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I changed my oil last week and there was a good bit of oil under the motor- assumed this was coming from the filter, so retightened and wiped everything down- it had gotten up onto the side of the engine case too, from what I assumed was being blown up when riding.

Took it out yesterday for a short ride, and there is fresh oil in one of the unused bolt holes under the clutch. I cleaned out this hole with qtips, so I am certain that it's fresh oil in the hole. What's going on? Is there something that's supposed to be in here that I'm missing? Searched the forum and found nothing about this in any of the oil leak threads.

View attachment 978922 View attachment 978923
Looks like a loose freeze plug
 

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No, no bolt goes in there. Carby's don't have radiators, nor freeze plugs, but I'm still not sure why those bolt holes are threaded, maybe it is to hold the engine during assembly at the factory?

That area is right below the crankcase breather - you might take that out and clean it, or if you still have the factory hose, pull it and clean it out because it probably has oil in it. As I recall, you just put FCR's on the bike and there were instructions on dealing with this hose, eliminating it I think,...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There's no oil above this hole, it's the highest point with any. Crankcase breather is dry too. This engine was on a stand recently, wondering if too long of a bolt in this hole might have cracked it.

Could I just slather a bolt in RTV and plug it that way?
 

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Well, power wash that bolt hole, use the Qtip again. Put something like a whittled down wine cork or rubber plug in there to make 100% sure the oil cannot come from the outside and go for a ride.

What about the stock hose on the crankcase breather? Removed from the bike? It's not just dangling up there somewhere disconnected?

The only other place I've seen oil come from to that area, at speed, was drips from the "well" the oil filter fits into caused by a bit of spillage during the oil change. But then I noticed it because it did drip right underneath the filter onto the ground.

I cannot see how it can be cracked inside, that is the stoutest part of the engine case,... but if it is cracked, where else is it likely cracked? Scary. I hear you about the bolt and RTV, but I'd want to know more about what happened first, and the cork test will prove oil is coming from inside or not. I mean, tightening a bolt inside an area that is already cracked could really break something, so if you use a bolt to seal it off for the test don't crank it down beyond plugging the hole and duct tape it to keep it from falling out during a test ride.

I suppose if you had any of that fancy aluminum tape you could just tape over the hole to test once you cleaned up any oil so it would stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No idea either, but I have seen a few discussions about oil leaks from the kick stand bolts. Breather hose is removed, cans are still up there under the seat though. I'll try the rubber plug first but am 99% certain this is where the leak is originating.
 

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I cant really tell from the picture but are those holes the same as the holes for mounting the rear brake torsion rod plate??
 

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Hold on, right side or left? I thought this looked exactly like the right side and nothing goes there on models without the torsion rod for the underslung brakes (SP). Since the underslung brakes were not an option on my 91 I wonder why those bolt holes are there anyway?

Good luck, hope the oil comes from the outside cause otherwise,...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is the right side, under the clutch basket. I had just mentioned the kickstand leak because it was in a similar spot, just on the other side.
 

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something to try--you could use a dye kit and dye the oil, you would need the UV light and the special glasses --clean everything well dye the oil then go for about a 15 min ride--come back and look with the light & glasses-and if it looks like oil is coming from there if you have access to a bore scope with a small tip you may be able to look in the hole and see if there is a crack
 

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The dye would also show a clear trail of external leaks under UV too, although it seems like your white glove tests have eliminated that possibility. Or has it?

Pull the clutch cover, is it wet in there? Could be clutch fluid?
 

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RockAZ my 900ss is a very early production 1991 model -euro not NA issue--it has a brake arm-now it is not a stock unit -look at my profile picture of my 900SS and you will see what I have-
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's definitely the source of the leak- wiped down the motor, blasted out that hole, and plugged it up with a rubber bung. Took it around the hood for a few minutes, outside of motor is dry. Removed the bung, and fresh oil sitting behind it.

So, considering that this hole will probably never be used, what would do you? Loctite, RTV, yamabond, sealing washer?
 

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That sucks - I dunno what to say other than you have isolated the source, to be sure.

I'd wait for one of the lads running a shop for 40 years to post up before doing anything. Maybe they've seen something that makes sense. I'd do that RTV / bolt thing on any water cooled bike from Japan but the weight stingy oil cooled only design of the carby leads me to doubt that approach, the metal is already trimmed to the quick and that area isn't supposed to be cracked like that.

And IMO, since it is cracked, you need to be very careful about torquing down any bolt into that area to avoid spreading the crack further. Epoxy, JB Weld and probably what you are calling "yamabond" is the direction I might go.

How TF did this happen? I use those bolt holes on my SP and don't want to have this problem ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is a donor motor that was just swapped in. Before I got it, it was on a stand that used those bolt holes. I'm assuming that the bolts used were too long or over tightened and cracked the case at the back of the hole. Just my guess, as it was from a CR that didn't have the underslung brake.

The threads I found about leaking sidestand holes were usually the same thing- overtightened or too long of bolts used.

At this point I just want to plug it up. Seems like a bolt covered in permatex might be the way to go.
 

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I would send a message to Belter or Ducvet for serious expert advice -I am sure one of then has seen this before. What I would try may not be viable --Again this may not work but off the top of my head this would be my idea--If the engine case is in fact cracked I would measure with a depth gauge exact depth of the hole--then exact depth of the the threads--I would if needed make a threaded plug to those exact specs--screw it in and make sure it's correct first---then remove it and reinstall using something permanent to seal the plug in place--& I am not talking about RTV, Ducati bond, Yamabond etc.--something that is going to seal it and no way ever come out. If this does not work you may be forced to replace the case's
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not super stressed about it. The hole is well above the oil level, and it's not a ton of oil leaking from there- although it's more than can be ignored. Even just threading in a rubber bung from my cold brew coffee maker a few threads stopped any oil coming out when I was out riding it. I don't think it will take much to seal it, but if there is a best option here I'd like to see what people say. Thinking maybe one of these as a plug and some permatex-

 

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just as an addendum to the last message I posted--I am not a fan of JB Weld in most situations and it may not be good in this application --but then It may be the best option--again on this I strongly suggest talking to Belter or Ducvet
 
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