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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, long story short I've managed to destroy my oil cooler.

A related thread sort of describes the issue at hand, wherein the oil lines vibrate loose and bathe bike and rider in hot oil.. easily solved by retightening the lines.. only in my case, I suffered a "lapse in judgement" and mangled the soft aluminum oil cooler beyond all repair.

So.. a new cooler is on the way and now I ask, dear reader, what is the best way to install this delicate beastie and get those oil lines tight enough to not leak without damaging anything in the process?

Any torque values would be appreciated (I have downloaded the manual from Duc.nu but the only applicable setting I seem to find is "oil cooler nipple" which I don't think is the right one..)
Also, what, if any, would the proper thread-locking compound be to use in this case?

Thanks for any help!

'08 SC1000 biposto
 

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Any torque values would be appreciated (I have downloaded the manual from Duc.nu but the only applicable setting I seem to find is "oil cooler nipple" which I don't think is the right one..)
Also, what, if any, would the proper thread-locking compound be to use in this case?
Here is a screenshot my workshop manual. It's for the GT1000, but this shouldn't matter.
The torque is in Nm, of course - it's an European bike ... ;-). and the threads are in mm.

I tried to look in the US-section of the workshop manual, but it's still metric. I don't know which interesting units you would like to use ...

LOCK 1 means Loctite 222




HTH

JG
 

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Probably this is already 100% obvious...but just in case....

The important thing here is not so much the torque on the fitting - it is that you have a wrench on the hex on the cooler casing itself at the same time as you are tightening the oil line fitting. If you let the cooler itself take the torque as you tighten the fitting you stand a good chance of breaking the oil cooler. IOW, you need to use two wrenches, not one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice guys! Looks like I'll be doing this within the next week or so.

I imagine it's like an oil change: drain oil, (change filter), replace oil cooler, replace engine oil.. run bike a few times to get the oil in.. top off oil, done.

Anything I'm missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Update:

A new oil cooler was (finally) fitted today without incident. All info provided in the related posts came in handy, including torque settings, and pre-filling of oil cooler, and using two wrenches :)

As a side note I had slightly overfilled the oil at first (despite using only 3.7 liters or so.) Probably not an issue, but I fashioned a pump system out of some plastic tubing, epoxy, and a discarded tabouleh container. Several strange-tasting puffs later the oil level now seems within spec.
 

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2012 Ducati HyperMotard 1100 Evo SP carbon fiber everything, yoshi pipes, intake, ecu, tune
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I have done this twice myself so you’re not alone. The last time I only caused a crease to show through and some jb weld over it and it hasn’t leaked since. Been looking for a replacement ever since. Preferably not the stock one because they are so fragile
 

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I have done this twice myself so you’re not alone. The last time I only caused a crease to show through and some jb weld over it and it hasn’t leaked since. Been looking for a replacement ever since. Preferably not the stock one because they are so fragile
Eh...do you realize your posting to a thread that was abandoned 8 years ago? The OP hasn't posted at all since 2014.
 
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