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Discussion Starter #1
my oil cooler inlet in the engine casing is all stripped out. Anyone have experience they could share in a successful helicoil? Any pics? Were you successful to NOT remove motor from bike? Did this require a different size end fitting on the cooler line?
 

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i would remove the side cover for the engine at the very least to make sure shavings don't get down in there. I do remember those things having to be really tight to keep them from leaking...
 

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Think the fittings are a pipe thread type - may be difficult getting a relevant helicoil in this thread?

Would second removing the cover and plugging the inside of the hole to stop any swarf getting into the engine...
 

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You look to have some threads left after the stripped part? I would shy from using a male/male adaptor with a longer threaded part to pick up these threads, if for any reason the threads gave you would then be pumping oil out of your engine all over your back tyre etc...

Possibly rethread the stripped hole the next size up using a different male/male adaptor so you can still use the same oil line? Its a BIG thread to accuratly drill & tap in situ though, you have a LOT of engine parts which would be in the way of the drill & tap wrench. :(

Could weld it up, then drill/tap it the same size? Again not easy with the engine in.

Not good! Stripping threads is always a gutter, you have my sympathies.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Final Results

Well - things didn't go as hoped. Helicoil was attempted, but engine started to crack around boss of inlet hole. Next attempt was to weld in an AN fitting (male). First attempt still leaked. Second weld attempt still leaked, proving that it was very difficult to get any contamination gone. Final result was leak could not be stopped and now take next steps.

Next steps recommended are:

1) replace engine with good used engine

This feels so sad because the rest of the engine is fine and only 14K miles. I've found a good/reliable used engine from Woundedduc.net which is 1 year newer than mine and only 2K more miles. It's an unfortunate option cuz it's gonna cost me purchase plus remove/install, but we can't find an alternate solution that is as cost effective. Rebuilding current engine with new half crank case will probably exceed engine replacement cost. We thing the repair is beyond "fixing" at this point.

If anyone knows of a good low mile engine available, please let me know.
 

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2016 1299 Pani, 2009 SF1100, 2012 MTS1100evo, 2006 999,
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Well - things didn't go as hoped. Helicoil was attempted, but engine started to crack around boss of inlet hole. Next attempt was to weld in an AN fitting (male). First attempt still leaked. Second weld attempt still leaked, proving that it was very difficult to get any contamination gone. Final result was leak could not be stopped and now take next steps.

Next steps recommended are:

1) replace engine with good used engine

This feels so sad because the rest of the engine is fine and only 14K miles. I've found a good/reliable used engine from Woundedduc.net which is 1 year newer than mine and only 2K more miles. It's an unfortunate option cuz it's gonna cost me purchase plus remove/install, but we can't find an alternate solution that is as cost effective. Rebuilding current engine with new half crank case will probably exceed engine replacement cost. We thing the repair is beyond "fixing" at this point.

If anyone knows of a good low mile engine available, please let me know.
That's a real shitter......I had the same issue recently with my oil drain hole on my 1098. Thread cracked and would not seal. After hours of research on the web , I found a product called Time-Sert. It is actually a threaded sleeve, not a spring like the helicoil. Drill out the old thread, re-tap and fix the sleeve in the hole with JB Weld. Worked a treat. This product is actually designed to repair threads in alloy crankcases....maybe worth a try..Mick
 

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Discussion Starter #9
beyond thread repair

Thanks for advice and condolences guys, but please understand that current status. The threads are no longer accessible. A permanent fitting with male threads (AN fitting) was welded into the threaded hole as the last attempt. So now the hole is filled with a welded in fitting. Getting something back to threads and then repair is impossible or most likely would further destroy the boss around the hole that cracked originally. It's horrible, but my reality. A new/used engine will be ordered soon..probably today and on it's way.
 

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It could be fixed but it would require stripping the engine cases bare and the services of a good machinist/weldor. The cost of doing that would likely exceed the cost of a decent used engine though. You can probably recoup some of the expense by selling the old lump off in parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It could be fixed but it would require stripping the engine cases bare and the services of a good machinist/weldor. The cost of doing that would likely exceed the cost of a decent used engine though. You can probably recoup some of the expense by selling the old lump off in parts.
You are correct on all points. I'll probably hang on to engine for a time until my new engine has proven to be with issues. Both have similar mileage, so I could end up swapping some parts over time. Nonetheless, I do plan on selling either entire engine or part it out.
 
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